What a cone air filter does is take in more air which is supposed to give your vehicle more power and better quality response (I honestly felt no difference when my brother did this to his Honda).

I don't think the cone will fit without a whole other kit (over $160 at Auto Zone for a Civic). When my brother did it, he cut up the bottom box to keep the original tube, and basically just kinda rigged it all up.

But, in my opinion, I don't see how it's better. To me, it seems like it draws in the hot air from under the hood, which would have less oxygen (that converts into power) than the cold air from the original intake system.

My brother did it to his car because, A, he was going for light weight (and that probably took off 5lbs, tops?), and B, he's a total ricer so he'll do ANY mod he can possibly do to look cool and it's embarrassing.

PS. Sorry for the constant Honda references, it's just that's the only cone filter I've had any experience in so far, and don't know how much different things would be for a Nissan.

 

My brother did it to his car because, A, he was going for light weight (and that probably took off 5lbs, tops?), and B, he's a total ricer so he'll do ANY mod he can possibly do to look cool and it's embarrassing.

For what it's worth, when I replaced the stock intake on my Integra with an AEM cold air intake, I saved over 12 lbs. and gained quite a bit power in the midrange, enough to feel.

The thing with intakes is that you can't just slap parts together and expect it to be better. A stock intale is designed to be efficient and quiet. A lot of times just replacing it with a cone filter will actually lose power and yet the noise makes the car seem faster. A K&N drop in is a good idea because the material flows better and it retains the stock design but the biggest benefit is that it lasts forever with proper maintenance so you don't have to be buying new paper filters every so often.

The only way to make any real power from an intake is to actually spend the money for a system that has been properly designed and engineered to make sure that the engine is getting air at the proper temperature and velocity.

This is especially important with modern computer controlled engines. A lot of times it's not even about getting the coldest air or the most air into the engine, because the sensors will think something is wrong. The trick is to fool the air fuel ratio just slightly so that the computer leans out the fuel mixture just enough to make some more power while still being in a range that the computer thinks is safe.

So, that's why my race car has a proper long tube cold air intake and my street cars get drop in K&Ns. I just haven't picked one up for the truck yet.

 

thanks for the response. this morning i ended up taking my K&N filter back because it was a little off in size and made it hard to get a secure seal around the filter cover. i got a $25 universal cone filter with rings in it so it could have the diameter adjusted. took off the air box and it fit right in. it does look somewhat ricer but it also has a nice deep sound at moderate and high rmp and i can feel a little more get up and go. all in all for half the price i got something that i feel slightly improves response.

on another note, anyone know a good muffler off hand. ill go search but any ideas appreciated.

 

So there is a difference? Maybe my brother rigged it incorrectly. I'll let him know about the universal filter, and see if he's willing to go for it.

 

I'd rather have cold outside air via the stock box than hot air under the hood from an open element.

 

well ill see if i get any small MPG increase with the cone on it. it is a small engine, but imo the stock elbow with the temp sensor on it cuts down on the air thats filtered in. the diameter on it is something like 2.5" or something small like that. also, to deal with the hot air which i can see being a problem, would a rigged heat shield help at all? and/or would it be possible to run some tubes to pull cold air into the engine bay near the filter.

thats what it ended up like. any ideas or comments?

 

thats what it ended up like. any ideas or comments?

Where did you relocate the MAF to? is it on the other of the crossover pipe?

 

Your sucking air through the joints of that corrugated flex section. Probably dirt too. Thats not a good seal there.

 

You could use some clear silicone or black RTV around the joints... Wait for it to dry thouroughly before firing it back up though.

 

so did you remove the big filter element from the half elliptical shape black housing?

 

even with tape or silicone, you'll still be sucking in unfiltered air with that getup. the tiny benefit you'll get (if any) isn't worth the risks

i'd go back to factory, k&n drop in, or some kind of mod that puts the cone filter at the actual intake (heat shield needed)

and i know, nobody makes any decent filter mods for the four bangers apart from the k&n drop in :censor:

 

On my old hardbody, I put the K&N drop in filter on and drilled 5, 2 1/2" holes around the top cover, worked out pretty good. Drove it like that with a custom magnaflow muffler for about 80,000 miles troublefree.

 

im thinking im prob going to switch back to the K&N drop in. with the holes drilled in the cover did you notice any difference?

 

It pulled harder on the top end.