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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i did the airbox mod and took some pics. i did a search on this earlier and could not find many pics.

lots of descriptions but not many pics.
here are some.


first pic is of small resonator near radiator. about 1-2 inch.

next is bottom of airbox removed.

then small section of tubing that just pulls out.

the empty hole is next and the last is of the wheel well plastic to be removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
few more pics

here are a few more.....

next is the wheel well plastic partially removed exposing second resonator.

next is the first and easy bolt location.

for some reason the other side of the resonator on my truck just pulled off. not sure if the nut came loose and fell off or what. i wasnt gonna **** with it too much and the location to the second bolt is nearly impossible to get.

i recommend just hacking the thing out without dooing too much damage to surrounding parts.

the next pic is the resonator removed.

and the last 2 pics are of that stupid second bolt and its location for anyone trying to get at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
finally a few more

i have3 more pics.

first of the box airback together.

next is a picture of my old "PCV" valve and the part number and box of the replacement i chose to use. and no i have no idea what vehicle it actually goes to but it fit. so there.

last picture is of door panel tabs.

i put this here because i had an issue with my door panel and the nissan ones SUCKED ***.

i got these and my door panel has moved yet. i also used these to hold the wheel well plastic back into place since i broke most of the original tabs.


and one more of the wife catching a 4lb+ large mouth.
 

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It looks like you didn't plug the radiator resonator hole, if you didn't you need to. I suggest a 1.5" test plug. You can pick them up at most hardware stores for a few bucks. Also why did you put the other resonator above the air box back on? You're supposed to take that off and plug it. I suggest a 2" test plug.

I can take pics of mine if you want.
 

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yeah man you didnt really do the air box mod. you needa get rid of those resonators and plug up the holes
 

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So what does this airbox mod do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hmmmm

i guess i misuunderstood the purpose of the mod.

i thought it was to open as much air flow as possible before the filter.
i left the resonator on the fender as is, because it is a plugged box. so whether it is removed and plugged or left in place its pretty much the same.

all openings i have now are before the filter. there is a large amount of air getting to the throttle body and intake NOW.

i can certainly change up on these things, but like i said earlier, i could not find some decent pictures of what everyone has done, so i had to "wing it" like i do everything else.


on my next mpg test i will plug the holes and see the difference in results if any.

the radiator resonator i left open, again to provide more air. why plug it? and restrict or force the air flow from only one point of entry.

if i were to get the actual CAI installed, the filter would be completely open and not surrounded by anything at all. all i did was remove the under-fender(wheel well) resonator, and remove the radiator resonator and leave it all open to promote as much air flow/draw as needed or required.


the truck feels amazing as it is now. thanks for the input and i will try plugging on the next fill up as i track mpgs.
 

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i can certainly change up on these things, but like i said earlier, i could not find some decent pictures of what everyone has done, so i had to "wing it" like i do everything else.
I agree. I wish one of you guys that has done the mod successfully would take some pictures and maybe write a how to so the rest of us can do it right.
 

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You NEED to plug those holes if you're doing this mod. If not, everything and anything can get sucked up into your engine. Also The point of removing them is so air flow straight into the engine without having to go through all the resonators, so your engine gets more direct air.

And here is the write up on the correct way to do it: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/how-get-most-out-your-stock-intake-1st-gen-x-31528/
this is the write up i used, its a goodn, just do as it says! haha sounds good, i dunno about extra power or not, but it costs next to nothing to do so w/e
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok...this is good

You NEED to plug those holes if you're doing this mod. If not, everything and anything can get sucked up into your engine. Also The point of removing them is so air flow straight into the engine without having to go through all the resonators, so your engine gets more direct air.

And here is the write up on the correct way to do it: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/how-get-most-out-your-stock-intake-1st-gen-x-31528/


ok i read thru the write up and it is good. wish i had found this before i started.

i am in complete agreement with you that ANY holes that are open AFTER the air filter NEED to be plugged to prevent any items entering the engine thru intake.

BUT, the tube for the resonator near the radiator enters below the filter so any air intake would get filtered there. also the resonator that is behind/under the fender is also piped to enter the air box below the filter. Hence any air intake form here will also get filtered prior to entering the throttle body. so from that i dont see the need to plug those holes, unless you are getting large contamination to the point of damaging the air filter which would allow crap to enter the engine.


And not to say you are wrong and i am right or vice versa, BUT, if the resonator on top of the fender,( the one i left in place), if that box is "dead headed" or completely sealed, then i believe that there is minimal air exchange happening there. The air will be "pulled" or flow from the easiest or least restricted of directions, and with all the other resonators removed, then most if not all air flow will be from those areas and not specifically from the resonator one left in place.


it certainly wouldn't be a big deal for me to remove it, and if i did i WOULD plug the hole since it is AFTER the air filter.

still not sure it has any purpose at all and cant understand why nissan would have designed it like that.


dont think there is that much to be gained by removing that one and plugging VS leaving it in as is.


how bout this, since i am in the middle of testing the mpg's with the changes i made already, i will do one more test with it removed in a couple of days and see if i notice any difference in performance or mpg's.


thanks for the input, it's been a good discussion on this topic.....
 

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Okay, just looking out for you and making sure you get the full effects of it.

The only thing I would disagree with you on is the plug for the radiator resonator. I see what you mean about being before the filter and the only reason I think it still needs to be plugged is so water doesn't get into it. It's right in front so if you hit a puddle or it rains there is a high possibility of water getting sucked into the engine.

Let us know how the mpg changes. I haven't had time to do any tests, but the RPMs do seem to be a little lower at speeds. So I really think you'll get a slight increase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
cool

uh in one of my pics i have a white hose running from the fog light area up to that intake. its not a direct sealed add-on, but it does inject air into that area where the second resontator was removed.(under fender)

i have heard on the issue with water being sucked in and moisture in the engine and no thats not good. i change the oil frequently as i seem to use it , so i keep my eye on that. so far no milky type of discoloration that i notice for one.

i also dont do any if at all off roading and i do pay attention to puddles and such when it rains because of having it there. there is no direct sealed draw of air on it, it only allows air in as i drive to blow up under the fender. does not blow directly into airbox.

when it rains, it does not matter too much. moisture has saturated the air, so all air going in is going to be moist.

i will keep an eye on under the hood at the smaller resonator for any issues of water there and that has more vacuum force and could suck in fluid.

put it back on and cut the end off and open it.?


this is the only vehilce i have owned in my life that i have modified so much. at this point i say the hell with it, anything goes. i almost want to do the e-fan mod just for the sake of doing all the mods that i can do, rather than if i need to or not.

but i need to work on wife's jeep before she starts cryin', so next project...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
cant remember the thread but

[QUOTE
Let us know how the mpg changes. I haven't had time to do any tests, but the RPMs do seem to be a little lower at speeds. So I really think you'll get a slight increase.[/QUOTE]

i will answer this qoute.

the first test i did was at 6 degrees btdc. got around 13.8mpgs.

the next wasat 12 degrees btdc and got 14.7 but still dogged off the line.

i just finished the latest test with timing at 15degrees btdc and was at the same 14.7mpg BUT

i was real heavy on the throttle for the first quarter tank so i think that influenced my results. i am going to repeat it and have already started. i am at 60miles or so and have yet to hit 3/4 tank. should get another 10 or so before that happens if i can see closer to 300 for the 16.3gallons i use i be good.


one side note is that every time i fill up i have been putting 16.8 gallons, then 16.3 gallons twice. so 240miles on 16.3 gallons
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ok latest test

so i just finished with the latest test with timing set to 15 btdc (according to the indicator on crankshaft)

as i stated earlier, not really sure how accurate that is, but anyway, here are the results.

16.6 gallons on latest fill up. traveled 272.4 miles. average mpg ~16.3

the conditions were influenced in the following way.

1.) limited supercharger usage. (thats not to say i didn't use it)
2.)relative highway speed 65-70mph with rare/occasional 75-80.
3.) 3 trips with fishing gear including canoe propped at angle on to roof rack from tailgate and bed extender. this acts more like an air CATCH than anything. each trip was 15-20 miles each way.

finally, i am not sure i will adjust the timing anymore as i know if "1.)" stays the same and i fix "2.)" and "3.)" by slowing down and not carrying a load i could potentially be getting closer to 18-20mpg.

pseudo airbox mod, KS relocate, secondary cats removed, high flow nismo exhaust from primary cats, new timing belt, P265/65R17 yokohama geolanders h/t-s -------ALL this i believe has made a significant difference in returning and improving gas mileage.
 
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