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Has anyone with the factory Rockford Fosgate system replaced JUST the head unit? If so, did the factory speakers still sound good and were you able to utilize the Fosgate amp and sub and all the power? I am thinking about a new stereo but don't want to lose the sound we already get from the factory equipment. I just want to purchase a stereo and the adapter to use the steering wheel controls...i don't think there is any need to replace the speakers. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I just installed the Kenwood KDC-X993 from Crutchfield and the harness had a wire I believe went to the factory amp. (they could tell you for sure) and it had a wire to hook up the factory steering wheel controls. I think you just have to purchase and additional box to plug it in.
 

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Has anyone with the factory Rockford Fosgate system replaced JUST the head unit? If so, did the factory speakers still sound good and were you able to utilize the Fosgate amp and sub and all the power? I am thinking about a new stereo but don't want to lose the sound we already get from the factory equipment. I just want to purchase a stereo and the adapter to use the steering wheel controls...i don't think there is any need to replace the speakers. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
This is a question i had also. hard to give away the XM, Steering wheel controls, bluetooth, and factory sub when you upgrade. i know there are adapters and such to add these but from my research your gonna have to pay a few extra hundred for them or a receiver with the similar options. good thing there is plenty of room below the factory stereo for all the extra harnesses and adapters. i just hope it is tons better for the money you have to fork out!!
 

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well first off i changed my head unit and it pushes the fosgate speakers further than normal before i never over heated the amp even when i had it maxed out for 1 hr +
but u can definatly over heat it now with the new head unit i have had it shut off 3 times on me so far but i was playing same heavy bass rap songs for 50+ mins so i dont blame it but that was before i tuned it.
t pushes alot more but after a while it may push them to far not sure yet nit o am going to upgrade them anyways so when the do go bad i will just replace them before i wanted to

if you want to keep steering wheel controls do some research on the pac-swi i think it is i tried to wire it up the first time i did it and burnt my headunit up good thing amazon has a great return policy and i didnt try it on the new one. but do a seach for the pac i think someone got it to work out

any questions send me a pm
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input. Hmmmm, what to do....what to do
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looks perfect!
 

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looks good keep in touch about the pac-swi i only remeber 1 maybe 2 people getting it to work for them
 

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I am also very interested in this question! I have a Pioneer DVD-P4000 that replaced the stock cd player in my previous truck. It is still wired with the harness provided me by Crutchfield.

My question concerns if I need a different harness to put this stereo in my new truck which currently has the RF CD changer.

If no one knows I might have to take it apart and take a look.

-Al
 

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I am also very interested in this question! I have a Pioneer DVD-P4000 that replaced the stock cd player in my previous truck. It is still wired with the harness provided me by Crutchfield.

My question concerns if I need a different harness to put this stereo in my new truck which currently has the RF CD changer.

If no one knows I might have to take it apart and take a look.

-Al
was your old truck a 95-07 nissan? is your current truck older than 07? if you answered yes to both of these then YES, the harness you already have will work. if you answered NO to either of them then the answer is NO the harness will NOT work. you will need to buy a new adapter.
 

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was your old truck a 95-07 nissan? is your current truck older than 07? if you answered yes to both of these then YES, the harness you already have will work. if you answered NO to either of them then the answer is NO the harness will NOT work. you will need to buy a new adapter.
My previous truck was and '07 CC SE, and the new one is an '06 SE. I just took a look behind the RF system in the new truck and saw that there are 4 factory plugs whereas the harness I already have wired has only 2 connectors.

Guess I need a new wiring harness. Does anyone know if the equivalent wiring harness integrates the factory amp and sub? Does anyone know what wiring harness I need, as Crutchfield no longer lists my head unit on their website?

-Al
 

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NO, the main plugs are the same. the other plugs are for steering wheel controls and sat radio i believe. it will work just fine. the only thing you will have to look into is the amp turn on if its required to activate the RF amp.
 

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use the same wiring harness, the two plugs on the passenger side are the ones you need, the other two are steering wheel controls(the plug with only 3 wires that you can tap into if your using the swi-pac) the other is for xm compatibility
 

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NO, the main plugs are the same. the other plugs are for steering wheel controls and sat radio i believe. it will work just fine. the only thing you will have to look into is the amp turn on if its required to activate the RF amp.
use the same wiring harness, the two plugs on the passenger side are the ones you need, the other two are steering wheel controls(the plug with only 3 wires that you can tap into if your using the swi-pac) the other is for xm compatibility
Thanks guys for your advice. I did have to connect the "remote" and "amp turn-on" wires. Other than that the 2 wiring harnesses I had previously wired into my Pioneer worked flawlessly.

I am very pleased with the quality of the sound in the new system.

I understand that by using the PAC OEM2 I could use all of the adjustibility over the sub-woofer that my Pioneer head unit offers, however, the sound from just using the speaker level inputs as they are wired for the RF unit sounds so good I don't really see the need at this point.

The only things I want to add for now are the PAC steering wheel control interface and some way to discretely mount my auxiliary input jacks.

-Al
 

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I'm an installer for Best Buy (MECP Certified for 5+ years)...here's a how-to I posted over on TheNewX:

How To:



Step 1: Remove top tray with nylon pry tool. Remove (1) phillips head screw. Start at top and pry outward on entire radio shroud. Place towel between shroud and lower dash to prevent scratching. Unplug and remove OEM radio.





Step 2: Prep for Install. Unbolt OEM radio brackets from OEM radio and bolt onto aftermarket head unit. (I had to re-position the brackets on different mounting holes when it came time to install into vehicle...)



Step 3: Wire up harness (Metra 70-7551), relay for e-brake bypass, and Metra ASWC steering wheel interface. Match color to color with Pioneer harness and 70-7551 harness. Cap off ALL orange, orange/white, yellow/black, blue, and purple/white wires as they will not be used. Twist the remaining matching wires together and crimp together in a crimp cap (needle nose pliers should NOT be used..use actual crimpers). No speaker wires are needed because this harness uses the RCA outputs on the deck, so just cap them all off too. Wiring in the bypass relay and steering wheel interface at the same time is a good idea because you don't have to splice into the wiring as they can all be crimped together at once. When you're done, it should look like this:

The plug coming off the bottom is the steering wheel interface harness. There are 2 wires to be hooked up in the truck. Hook up the relay like this:
87a: 12v constant
87: Ground
86: Ground
30: E-brake wire from head unit
85: Remote wire from head unit

Step 4 (Optional): I decided to mount my mic for the Bluetooth in one of the switch blanks. Simply remove the blank (actually kind of a PITA)...there's tabs on top and bottom behind the panel. Lift away from the switch blank on the tabs and the blank will pop out (into the dash). Drill your hole and press mic into place.



Step 5: Steering wheel interface connections. Locate the 16 pin harness where the steering wheel control wires are located (on RF systems only). Follow the directions exactly from Axxess Interface. They were right on with the wire colors and locations. The nice thing about this interface is that it does NOT require any resistors OR programming. Just hook it up and it works (badass). Here's the plug with the steering wheel interface wires:


Step 6: Mounting. I suggest checking the mounting brackets before hooking up any wiring. You may have to re-position the brackets as needed. I did...once everything is sitting correctly, make your connections on the rear. I installed the trim ring at this point (didn't come with the head unit...I used one I had in my tool box from an earlier model Pioneer double din unit). Test everything out and if it's okay, proceed to step 7.

Step 7: Re-assemble dash and enjoy!



Initial thoughts.....
Start-up is FAST
Sound quality is definitely improved
Bluetooth is clear and loud (according to my girlfriend who I called on it)
User interface is awesome
Steering wheel interface is = to OEM (no lag like the PAC/Peripheral interface has)
A trim ring is DEFINITELY needed. Without one there are gaps above and below the radio.

Any questions, feel free to hit me up. Total install time was 1 hour.
And here's a how-to for getting rid of that "THUMP" on shutdown:

"POP" on shut down fixed!

Unhook Pioneer remote wire from Metra harness remote wire (leave bypass relay hooked up to Pioneer remote wire). Then get another relay (same kind you used for the e-brake bypass) and hook it up like this:
85: 12v ignition
87: 12v ignition
86: Ground
30: Remote wire going OUT to vehicle (on Metra harness)
87a: No connection

Voila..no more POP/THUMP when vehicle is shut off. The problem was that the Pioneer remote wire was not powering off fast enough when the deck shut off so that THUMP you're hearing is the capacitors in the system releasing their stored energy. The relay cuts power to the remote wire INSTANTLY so the OEM amp shuts off before the POP/THUMP.

No need for the voltage regulator (I tried it first and it didn't work...)
 

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looks like i am gonna be looking into Metra ASWC steering wheel

i tried pac and failed burnt up headunit (loves amazon's return policy)
 

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looks like i am gonna be looking into Metra ASWC steering wheel

i tried pac and failed burnt up headunit (loves amazon's return policy)
The Metra ASWC is awesome...theres's a total of 4 wires to hook up (power, ground, and 2 interface wires, plus one jumper wire (gotta ground one of the OEM wires). Takes about 5-10 mins to hook up and works like a charm. No resistors or programming needed. You can also re-program some of the buttons if you wish. It will also retain OEM Bluetooth steering wheel controls.

I got mine on eBay for $50 shipped (since we don't sell them at Best Buy).
 
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