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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about getting new speakers, the frontier got 2 in the front and 2 in the back, don't want to replace the head unit though. Was considering a subwoofer not sure where to put it? Maybe under the seat?

If you have a aftermarket sound system tell us your setup in detail and if you feel it was worth the money compared to the stock sound system?

::grin::::grin::::grin::
 

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I've tried a few different combos of things in mine and I'm very happy with what I've got now. Changing the headunit is a must if you want the best sound possible.

This is what I've got right now:
Kenwood Excelon headunit
Alpine Type R 6x9s in the front doors
Infinity Reference 6.5s in the rear doors
Polk db 1" silk dome tweeters in the dash
Hifonics 4 channel amp with 75w RMS per channel

The Tweeters on the dash and the 6x9s are amped, the rears just run off the headunit. I used to have a 12" Alpine Type R sub with 500w RMS behind it but honestly the amped 6x9s produce plenty of bass, so I removed it. Most people that hear it for the first time are looking for the sub and are blown away when I tell them there isn't one.

Reason I say change the head unit is for the digital time alignment and better signal processing. The factory stuff is garbage....
 

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It's in the sig but I'll elaborate more; current setup is:

Kenwood Excelon DNX-892 Head Unit
JL Audio TWK-88 DSP
Hertz Audio HSK-165 6.5” Components
Hertz Audio Dieci DCX-165.3 6.5" Coaxials
2x JL Audio 10TW-1 Subs
Alpine PDX-V9 Amp
Kenwood KAC-M3004 Amp

Front dash tweeters and front door woofers are getting 138w each, rear speakers are getting 80w-ish each, 2x subs are wired in parallel and are getting 564w. I'm running a full active setup, took me a couple weeks of fine tuning the DSP to get it just right for what I was looking for, but I love the sound of the Hertz speakers. Crisp and clear highs, vocals sound amazing. And to be honest, 2 subs are overkill for SQ... I turn them down a lot for SQ, but they're ready to turn up at a moment's notice if ever I need to make the car next to me rattle at the stoplight LOL

BTW the Kenwood amp and rear coaxials are just for those 'open the doors and play some music' days. I found this to be better sounding than opening the front doors since up front the sound is separated when you open the door due to the highs being in the dash. That's all the rear speakers are for though, I usually have the rear speakers switched off when daily driving.

Like glamisdude said, I agree 100%: the OEM head unit has to go, no matter what you do with post-processing (OEM integration, DSP, etc., you're never going to get better sound out of the OEM head unit's narrow, limited signal output and reduced output levels when turned up. So if you just replace the speakers and keep the OEM head unit, you won't be getting your money's worth and you won't be using the aftermarket speakers to their full capabilities.

For example, if you swap in $200 speakers but keep the OEM head unit, you won't hear much of a difference.
But if you go with a basic brand name $99 head unit + $50 brand name speakers, you WILL hear a difference, I guarantee it.
::smile::
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's in the sig but I'll elaborate more; current setup is:

Kenwood Excelon DNX-892 Head Unit
JL Audio TWK-88 DSP
Hertz Audio HSK-165 6.5” Components
Hertz Audio Dieci DCX-165.3 6.5" Coaxials
2x JL Audio 10TW-1 Subs
Alpine PDX-V9 Amp
Kenwood KAC-M3004 Amp

Front dash tweeters and front door woofers are getting 138w each, rear speakers are getting 80w-ish each, 2x subs are wired in parallel and are getting 564w. I'm running a full active setup, took me a couple weeks of fine tuning the DSP to get it just right for what I was looking for, but I love the sound of the Hertz speakers. Crisp and clear highs, vocals sound amazing. And to be honest, 2 subs are overkill for SQ... I turn them down a lot for SQ, but they're ready to turn up at a moment's notice if ever I need to make the car next to me rattle at the stoplight LOL

BTW the Kenwood amp and rear coaxials are just for those 'open the doors and play some music' days. I found this to be better sounding than opening the front doors since up front the sound is separated when you open the door due to the highs being in the dash. That's all the rear speakers are for though, I usually have the rear speakers switched off when daily driving.

Like glamisdude said, I agree 100%: the OEM head unit has to go, no matter what you do with post-processing (OEM integration, DSP, etc., you're never going to get better sound out of the OEM head unit's narrow, limited signal output and reduced output levels when turned up. So if you just replace the speakers and keep the OEM head unit, you won't be getting your money's worth and you won't be using the aftermarket speakers to their full capabilities.

For example, if you swap in $200 speakers but keep the OEM head unit, you won't hear much of a difference.
But if you go with a basic brand name $99 head unit + $50 brand name speakers, you WILL hear a difference, I guarantee it.
::smile::


but isn't the head unit apart of the backup camera? If so that is why I do not want to change it.
 

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but isn't the head unit apart of the backup camera? If so that is why I do not want to change it.
On my setup I have the OEM backup camera, OEM USB port, and OEM steering wheel controls working just like factory, but with the aftermarket Kenwood head unit. The OEM head unit and the OEM backup camera are separate, Axxess makes a $10 adaptor harness (AX-NIS32SWC) that allows you to connect the OEM Nissan backup camera output to an aftermarket head unit rear camera input.

We were talking about audio only before (thus my $99 head unit example); if you want extra features like retaining the backup camera, you'll need an aftermarket head unit with video-in or rear camera functionality. A quick scan showed there are actually $99 double-DIN head units with video, but I seriously would question the quality of the audio, the reliability and the build of the head unit itself for that low of a price.

if you're bored, read this:
Full Audio Upgrade, part 5 – Swapping Out the OEM Head Unit (03.07.15)
 

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Back in January I replaced my stock SE speakers with cheap Pioneers(under $60 a pair)- and could not believe the difference. I left the original dash tweeters- but replaced both sets of door speakers.

I then went and replaced headunit with a new Pioneer AVH-4800- and have been floored since with the difference in sound quality. Funny thing is though- I don't even use it to play CD's or DVD's. All of my music playback is via standard res FLAC files sourced from 96K/24Bit Vinyl rips.

Chris
 

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Back in January I replaced my stock SE speakers with cheap Pioneers(under $60 a pair)- and could not believe the difference. I left the original dash tweeters- but replaced both sets of door speakers.

I then went and replaced headunit with a new Pioneer AVH-4800- and have been floored since with the difference in sound quality. Funny thing is though- I don't even use it to play CD's or DVD's. All of my music playback is via standard res FLAC files sourced from 96K/24Bit Vinyl rips.

Chris
Exactly... the head unit is the key, because it's the source. You can spend $1000 on each speaker but if the source sucks, it's a waste of money
 

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Here's my setup. I think it sounds great, and have got a lot of compliments on it.

Kenwood Excelon DPX792BH

Kicker 40CS6934 6x9 inch
Kicker 40CS674 6-3/4"
Pioneer GM-D8604 Class FD 4-Channel Amplifier 100x4 RMS

Audio Enhancers NFC55C10 Subwoofer Box
PIONEER TS-SW2502S4 10-Inch Shallow-Mount Subwoofer
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier 300x1 RMS
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On my setup I have the OEM backup camera, OEM USB port, and OEM steering wheel controls working just like factory, but with the aftermarket Kenwood head unit. The OEM head unit and the OEM backup camera are separate, Axxess makes a $10 adaptor harness (AX-NIS32SWC) that allows you to connect the OEM Nissan backup camera output to an aftermarket head unit rear camera input.

We were talking about audio only before (thus my $99 head unit example); if you want extra features like retaining the backup camera, you'll need an aftermarket head unit with video-in or rear camera functionality. A quick scan showed there are actually $99 double-DIN head units with video, but I seriously would question the quality of the audio, the reliability and the build of the head unit itself for that low of a price.

if you're bored, read this:
Full Audio Upgrade, part 5 – Swapping Out the OEM Head Unit (03.07.15)

You seem to really know a lot about this subject so forgive me when I ask that if I understand you correctly your saying I can keep the oem backup camera portion of the head unit (which I want to keep) but I thought it is all one unit not being able to separate it and put a aftermarket additional head unit anywhere? Or separating it and putting something aftermarket underneath the backup camera screen? Bit confused lol
 

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You seem to really know a lot about this subject so forgive me when I ask that if I understand you correctly your saying I can keep the oem backup camera portion of the head unit (which I want to keep) but I thought it is all one unit not being able to separate it and put a aftermarket additional head unit anywhere? Or separating it and putting something aftermarket underneath the backup camera screen? Bit confused lol
No, the whole OEM headunit goes - including the screen. What I meant by "separate" is that you can use the OEM camera part (in the tailgate) with an aftermarket head unit. So basically you would upgrade your OEM head unit with an aftermarket one that has backup camera inputs and use the adaptor harness to connect your OEM camera to it.

OEM HEAD UNIT (in dash) <---------------------------------> OEM BACKUP CAMERA (in tailgate)

change to:

AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (in dash) <------------> AXXESS ADAPTOR <-----------> OEM BACKUP CAMERA (in tailgate)

...or if you go the whole 9 (like I did) to make everything functional like OEM but with much better sound + video:

AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (in dash) <------------> ADAPTOR HARNESS <-----------> OEM BACKUP CAMERA (in tailgate)
AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (more) <------------> ADAPTOR HARNESS <-----------> OEM USB Audio (in center console)
AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (more) <------------> ASWC-1<-----------> OEM Volume Controls (on steering wheel)
AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (more) <------------> ASWC-1 <-----------> OEM Bluetooth controls (on steering wheel)
AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (more) <------------> ADAPTOR PLUG <-----------> OEM satellite radio antenna (on roof)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No, the whole OEM headunit goes - including the screen. What I meant by "separate" is that you can use the OEM camera part (in the tailgate) with an aftermarket head unit. So basically you would upgrade your OEM head unit with an aftermarket one that has backup camera inputs and use the adaptor harness to connect your OEM camera to it.

OEM HEAD UNIT (in dash) <---------------------------------> OEM BACKUP CAMERA (in tailgate)

change to:

AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (in dash) <------------> AXXESS ADAPTOR <-----------> OEM BACKUP CAMERA (in tailgate)

...or if you go the whole 9 (like I did) to make everything functional like OEM but with much better sound + video:

AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (in dash) <------------> ADAPTOR HARNESS <-----------> OEM BACKUP CAMERA (in tailgate)
AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (more) <------------> ADAPTOR HARNESS <-----------> OEM USB Audio (in center console)
AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (more) <------------> ASWC-1<-----------> OEM Volume Controls (on steering wheel)
AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (more) <------------> ASWC-1 <-----------> OEM Bluetooth controls (on steering wheel)
AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT (more) <------------> ADAPTOR PLUG <-----------> OEM satellite radio antenna (on roof)

Do you know for a fact it will beep if you back up too close to something? I didn't price any head unit like that but it sounds like it would be a lot of money?
 

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The backup radar (the beeping) is a separate system from the audio, so it still works even if you change head units.

As for the costs... it just depends on what your goal is vs. what your budget is. Like reidcc said above, a simple swap to $60/pair Pioneers and there was an improvement. Add in an aftermarket head unit, and there was a lot more improvement. And so on, etc. but again - the quality of the sound starts with the source (head unit).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The backup radar (the beeping) is a separate system from the audio, so it still works even if you change head units.

As for the costs... it just depends on what your goal is vs. what your budget is. Like reidcc said above, a simple swap to $60/pair Pioneers and there was an improvement. Add in an aftermarket head unit, and there was a lot more improvement. And so on, etc. but again - the quality of the sound starts with the source (head unit).

most oem head units are where the amp is located in right? Is the reason you think there is much improvement from replacing oem head unit is this reason or for another reason?

separate question, what do you think about getting new speakers to replace the stock 2 front and 2 rear keeping the oem head unit but adding a small aftermarket amp?

What are your thoughts?
 

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most oem head units are where the amp is located in right? Is the reason you think there is much improvement from replacing oem head unit is this reason or for another reason?
Part of the reason... but not all of it. Try to look at it this way - there's two basic things the OEM head unit does to produce sound:

A. It sends a range of signals consisting of frequencies to the speakers (the high music notes, low bass, midrange voices, etc.) and
B. It amplifies the signal to make the sound louder.

Most "non-premium" OEM head units tend to reduce/limit the highest (high pitch tones) and lowest (bass) frequencies when you turn up the volume. They do this to ensure you don't blow the OEM factory speakers. They're also pretty weak as far as amplification goes. So not only do you have a smaller range of frequencies going to the speakers, but chances are the OEM speakers themselves are very basic in producing good sound, which is why when you turn up the OEM stereo to full volume, it sounds like crap.

When you upgrade to an aftermarket head unit, you eliminate these restrictions. A decent aftermarket head unit will be able to send a wider range of frequencies to the speakers, which means crisp, better sounding music. Even the built-in amp in aftermarket head units are capable of higher (and more importantly, cleaner) power than OEM. Along with this, you also get any extra features that the aftermarket head unit has (i.e. video, backup camera integration, etc.)

Which takes us to your second question -

separate question, what do you think about getting new speakers to replace the stock 2 front and 2 rear keeping the oem head unit but adding a small aftermarket amp?
IMO not worth the trouble, because of many things:

1. Your OEM head unit doesn't have a way to connect to the aftermarket amp other than speaker-level out. That means you need an amp that can take a speaker-level input. Then the amp has to convert that signal back to line-level, then amplify it again. Or you can use a line-level converter to take your OEM speaker outputs, cut it down to line-level, and then feed that into the amplifier's input.

2. How are you going to get the signal from the aftermarket amp to the speakers? You can use the factory speaker wires, but it's a lot of cutting and splicing just to put an aftermarket amplifier between the OEM head unit and the factory speaker wires. Or you can actually take apart the door panels and run new speaker wires to all the speaker locations.

3. In the end, after all that, you'll STILL have the restrictions that the OEM head unit has, so you may have louder output (due to the aftermarket amp) and you might not blow the speakers at higher volume (due to upgrading the speakers) ... but the music itself will only sound slightly better. I say "slightly" because your signal from the OEM head unit is still crappy to begin with.

Granted this is all my opinion. Some people are perfectly happy just swapping the OEM speakers out for aftermarket speakers and calling it a day. That's fine - if they're happy, who am I to say it's wrong? But if it's about actually getting better sound (not just louder), I prefer to do it the right way - which means again: you have to start with upgrading the source.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Part of the reason... but not all of it. Try to look at it this way - there's two basic things the OEM head unit does to produce sound:

A. It sends a range of signals consisting of frequencies to the speakers (the high music notes, low bass, midrange voices, etc.) and
B. It amplifies the signal to make the sound louder.

Most "non-premium" OEM head units tend to reduce/limit the highest (high pitch tones) and lowest (bass) frequencies when you turn up the volume. They do this to ensure you don't blow the OEM factory speakers. They're also pretty weak as far as amplification goes. So not only do you have a smaller range of frequencies going to the speakers, but chances are the OEM speakers themselves are very basic in producing good sound, which is why when you turn up the OEM stereo to full volume, it sounds like crap.

When you upgrade to an aftermarket head unit, you eliminate these restrictions. A decent aftermarket head unit will be able to send a wider range of frequencies to the speakers, which means crisp, better sounding music. Even the built-in amp in aftermarket head units are capable of higher (and more importantly, cleaner) power than OEM. Along with this, you also get any extra features that the aftermarket head unit has (i.e. video, backup camera integration, etc.)

Which takes us to your second question -



IMO not worth the trouble, because of many things:

1. Your OEM head unit doesn't have a way to connect to the aftermarket amp other than speaker-level out. That means you need an amp that can take a speaker-level input. Then the amp has to convert that signal back to line-level, then amplify it again. Or you can use a line-level converter to take your OEM speaker outputs, cut it down to line-level, and then feed that into the amplifier's input.

2. How are you going to get the signal from the aftermarket amp to the speakers? You can use the factory speaker wires, but it's a lot of cutting and splicing just to put an aftermarket amplifier between the OEM head unit and the factory speaker wires. Or you can actually take apart the door panels and run new speaker wires to all the speaker locations.

3. In the end, after all that, you'll STILL have the restrictions that the OEM head unit has, so you may have louder output (due to the aftermarket amp) and you might not blow the speakers at higher volume (due to upgrading the speakers) ... but the music itself will only sound slightly better. I say "slightly" because your signal from the OEM head unit is still crappy to begin with.

Granted this is all my opinion. Some people are perfectly happy just swapping the OEM speakers out for aftermarket speakers and calling it a day. That's fine - if they're happy, who am I to say it's wrong? But if it's about actually getting better sound (not just louder), I prefer to do it the right way - which means again: you have to start with upgrading the source.

Dude your a straight guru! Thanks for the intelligent clear answer to my 2 questions

not to put you on the spot bro but now I am thinking it would be smart to compare the oem headunit to aftermarket head units based on these different hi and low frequencies that they have the ability to put out,
A) what are the specs on the oem head unit of the 2013 Nissan frontier oem head unit for these? frequencies? If you don't know off hand where can I find out this information?
B) If I were to do some research of my own to judge a headunit oem or aftermarket based on hi and low frequencies abilities what is the verbage used to describe these in my search so I know what I am looking for?

this thread has turned out to be far more informative than expected mainly due from your feedback

big ups!:smart:
 

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Dude your a straight guru! Thanks for the intelligent clear answer to my 2 questions

not to put you on the spot bro but now I am thinking it would be smart to compare the oem headunit to aftermarket head units based on these different hi and low frequencies that they have the ability to put out,
A) what are the specs on the oem head unit of the 2013 Nissan frontier oem head unit for these? frequencies? If you don't know off hand where can I find out this information?
B) If I were to do some research of my own to judge a headunit oem or aftermarket based on hi and low frequencies abilities what is the verbage used to describe these in my search so I know what I am looking for?

this thread has turned out to be far more informative than expected mainly due from your feedback

big ups!:smart:
A. Don't know the actual number specs for the OEM unit, but in all honesty - just use your ears, that's what matters.

B. I'm think it's pretty safe to say that all of the recognized, brand name head units out there will have a much wider frequency range than OEM, and (more importantly) unlike OEM, the aftermarket head unit will not limit the highest/lowest frequencies when you turn the volume up. Stick to the usuals - Kenwood, Pioneer, Alpine, Sony, etc.

Here, learn stuff:
Car stereo buying guide: Tips for choosing a new stereo for your car
 

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^Just to add to this last one a bit:

When you get an aftermarket headunit, if possible buy one of the premium lines from the big names. The basic units from the big names are better than OEM by removing said restrictions with cleaner power but typically lack the detailed processing features the premium lines have.

For example, I've got a basic Kenwood unit in our Subaru and a Kenwood Excelon (premium line) in the truck. The basic unit has very limited crossover frequency adjustments, basic EQ, and that's about it. The Excelon has 2 stage DTA, crossover frequency adjust with 5 different octave filters, parametic EQ, position settings, speaker size adjustments, car type adjustments, etc. WAY more features on the Excelon.

Another big difference is pre amp output voltage if you want to add an amp eventually. Most basic units have 2.5v whereas most premium lines have 4-6v, this is important as the amp will get a cleaner input signal that is stronger and will require less gain to reach the same volume.

Audio is a very in depth topic and Raine and I could go on all day...


TL;DR: Get a premium line unit from a trusted brand if you can.

Examples: Kenwood Excelon, Pioneer Premier, etc

Also, if you have not seen this yet, it will help you get a grasp on audio in general. I wrote it a few years back and it is still pretty relevant:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f24/comprehensive-audio-diy-research-install-guide-85682/
 
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