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I’m planning on adding rear spot lights and a front light bar this month. I’m considering just using a couple add a fuse and don't know the correct size? Anyone? 2016 Pro4x.

Or should I use a fuse block? Thoughts?
 

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Most light bars, spots, comes with a harness, which includes a fuse holder ,switch and relay.
If you are making a harness ,need to know the draw.
Adding this to my Dodge, chase truck. I have their driving , back up ,interior lights also.
Made by PIAA, Quality lights at a fair price.
I run Lights made by Ridgid on the Frontiers.
I
310447
 

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CDPro, I would place the least amount of current draw possible, on your stock harness. Add-a-fuse circuit taps are a bad idea, unless its just to pull turn-on current for an IGN ON relay. Something like what I built should be either purchased or constructed, to safeguard your truck's harness from overdraw and possible fires. Stock wiring is only just heavy enough to support what it was built for, not for unknown after-the-fact accessories. Go with a fuse block and be safe. Blue Sea Systems makes some very nice ones.

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310556
 

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CDPro, I would place the least amount of current draw possible, on your stock harness. Add-a-fuse circuit taps are a bad idea, unless its just to pull turn-on current for an IGN ON relay. Something like what I built should be either purchased or constructed, to safeguard your truck's harness from overdraw and possible fires. Stock wiring is only just heavy enough to support what it was built for, not for unknown after-the-fact accessories. Go with a fuse block and be safe. Blue Sea Systems makes some very nice ones.

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View attachment 310556
Would you do a fuse block just for accessory activated add ons?
 

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Yekratsb, I would, and I did. Nothing in that block is hot at all times as far as the end connections, the battery-side of course, is, but all the relays either go on and off with the keylock / IGN, or go "available" when the keylock's ON then its appropriate switch is activated. I dont have any aftermarket amps or other type accessories, which are typically Hot At All Times on the heavy power leads ( 8 GA or up, depending on continuous draw ); then receive a switch-on command / signal either from the radio head or the IGN switch through a much smaller gauge wire.
 

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Yekratsb, I would, and I did. Nothing in that block is hot at all times as far as the end connections, the battery-side of course, is, but all the relays either go on and off with the keylock / IGN, or go "available" when the keylock's ON then its appropriate switch is activated. I dont have any aftermarket amps or other type accessories, which are typically Hot At All Times on the heavy power leads ( 8 GA or up, depending on continuous draw ); then receive a switch-on command / signal either from the radio head or the IGN switch through a much smaller gauge wire.
Just like me to duplicate... https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/fuse-block-location-electrical-questions.359944/post-3818563

I should just commission you to set mine up:) Is beer enough?
 
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