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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to this forum so I wasn't quite sure where to post this issue.

I have a 2011 Nissan Frontier SV
4 Wheel drive
4 ltr.

I did my rear brakes a while back and 5 days later my lights start coming on as soon as I go forward a little bit. I have read enough that it is a wheel sensor. Since I had just done my brakes I assumed I had some crap on one of the wheel sensors. I pulled both of them and they did have a little debris on them so I blew them off and blew out the hole into the hub area. No luck. Currently there are no OBD2 error codes. I went to Autozone and rented a scan tool with ABS. The scan tools says no ABS scan is available for this vehicle. (Something to that effect)

My question is does the truck not provide ABS scan info or is it the tool? I have watched videos of checking voltage at each sensor and checking the ohms but was hoping to get the scan tool to direct me to which sensor it is.

Anybody have any advice on this?

John
 

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It's the tool, all vehicles use similar ABS controllers and software so they must interface with a scan tool for diagnostics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks bajasam! You were correct. I took the rental tool back and bought a different one,

I got 2 ABS codes

C1164 Cut Valve1 Front or Primary System
C1140 Actuator Relay line

I'm not sure if it is a fluke that this failed right after my brake job or if I did something? I have done a ton of brake jobs and never had a problem before.

Anybody ever have to deal with these codes? Any direction?

John
 

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Most likely not a fluke if codes popped up immediately after your brake work. Most common error issue I see is accidentally letting master cyl fluid reservoir getting to low and getting a bubble into abs controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Most likely not a fluke if codes popped up immediately after your brake work. Most common error issue I see is accidentally letting master cyl fluid reservoir getting to low and getting a bubble into abs controller.
It wasn't immediately, I drove it around town for 2 or 3 days then a trip down to the coast which is about a 2 hour drive which uses the brakes a lot. No issues until the next morning the lights came on as soon as I started to go forward. So about 4 days of driving before the lights came on.

When I did the brakes I opened up the master cyl reservoir for when I compressed the caliper. It didn't run low or over flow and looks to be in the proper fill.

I don't see much on the web for these codes so I might have to take it somewhere. Just not sure who can handle ABS other than dealing with a Steelership.

John
 

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I would clear the codes and continue driving to see if they set again to make sure same code sets as as you say they are not a common code to see.Also check to ensure master cyl is filled to MAX line as if at halfway mark when your turning hard or stopping hard your brake fluid level sensor will trigger all those warning lights because it gets exposed to air in a hard turn. They should have mounted it another 3/4 inch lower in the reservoir.
 

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When I did the brakes I opened up the master cyl reservoir for when I compressed the caliper.
For future reference, NEVER push that old brake fluid back up into the system when compressing the caliper. Instead, open the bleed screw first, and dump the old fluid. You will be (or should be) flushing the fluid anyway during a brake job. The last thing you need is contaminated fluid reaching the ABS pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would clear the codes and continue driving to see if they set again to make sure same code sets as as you say they are not a common code to see.Also check to ensure master cyl is filled to MAX line as if at halfway mark when your turning hard or stopping hard your brake fluid level sensor will trigger all those warning lights because it gets exposed to air in a hard turn. They should have mounted it another 3/4 inch lower in the reservoir.
When I start the truck there are no lights on. No DTC codes show up. The lights don’t show up until I drive forward for a bit. You think I still need to do a reset of the codes? The ABS codes seem to be a little different than DTC codes so I am not familiar with their process. I assumed since the lights were off when started it and didn’t come on until driving there wasn’t anything to reset?

John
 
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