[Kits]

Hey all new to the forum, recently bought a used 2013 frontier V6 4L, hoping someone has some insight for me


Started a while back on a snowy wet highway, my truck stuttered and ABS and TC lights came on, lost both systems ( also 4x4 )

Tried resettings the ECU, both manually by removing the battery ( connected leads to drain system for over 20 min ) Also found a procedure to reset by a systematic series of flooring the gas while key is in acc mode

Initially this cleared the issue for a day or two but expectedly the issue came back, Ive tried to repeat but with no luck.

Ran a scan and got codes C1109 ( Abnormal voltage ) and C1102 Left rear Abs sensor

Performed a test on the sensor with multimeter, the sensor checked fine but the voltage to the connector was weak ( double checked both sides.

I was also due for a new Battery, temps were around -28C for 2 weeks and start up was rough so I installed a new one.

Also I thought Id check for recalls and there was and ECU update needed for airbags, had the dealer do a diagnostics while I was there, all they did was confirm what I knew, sensor was fine power to the connector was weak. I opted to not have them dig deeper as its the dealership and their shop rates are crazy! Worst case if I can't find the issue I'll take to my guy

Since it was so cold and I don't have a heated garage this was all put on hold for a few days when low and behold out of no where the whole system comes back online and stays that way for about 2 weeks.

Well its back now, Ive chased the wire all the way through the undercarriage up to the ABS actuator but its impossible to see if there's a short because those wires are in a super channel of a bunch of other wires. Any exposed wires near either end seem fine.

Finally found a diagram for the harness and I'm going to try probe to see if that can reveal anything.



Anyone have this problem and could suggest something I can try, giving myself one more go at this before I tap out and take it to the shop

 

[V8 man]

Abnormal voltage, probably from disconnecting the battery.
Wheel speed sensors are usually damaged wires/connectors from stretching the wires with a lift or something like that. Or else it is a bad sensor. I think you can swap the sensors side to side, see if the problem follows the sensor. I've seen sensors damaged by bad tow jobs as well.

4WD will not shift if it sees a fault in wheel speed sensors. It is a safety thing to prevent shifting if the computer cannot be sure it won't clash gears. Self preservation of the 4WD system.

 

[SoCal]

Abnormal voltage, probably from disconnecting the battery.
Wheel speed sensors are usually damaged wires/connectors from stretching the wires with a lift or something like that. Or else it is a bad sensor. I think you can swap the sensors side to side, see if the problem follows the sensor. I've seen sensors damaged by bad tow jobs as well.

4WD will not shift if it sees a fault in wheel speed sensors. It is a safety thing to prevent shifting if the computer cannot be sure it won't clash gears. Self preservation of the 4WD system.

Check the vehicle ground connections where wires are bolted (grounded) to the body. I think there’s one close to the ABS module and another on the driver side under or near the air filter box. Remove the bolt and check for corrosion, the clean and retighten.

 

[Kits]

Check the vehicle ground connections where wires are bolted (grounded) to the body. I think there’s one close to the ABS module and another on the driver side under or near the air filter box. Remove the bolt and check for corrosion, the clean and retighten.

So while checking the harness with the multimeter I pulled the grounds as suggested and cleaned up everything ( Even though they all seemed pretty clean ) and we are lights out for now and everything is working perfect!!

It would make sense a weak ground would explain the intermittent condition so I am hoping this is it.

Thanks for the great suggestion!! I will report back if the condition continues for anyone that comes across this similar issue in the future.

 

[SoCal]

So while checking the harness with the multimeter I pulled the grounds as suggested and cleaned up everything ( Even though they all seemed pretty clean ) and we are lights out for now and everything is working perfect!!

It would make sense a weak ground would explain the intermittent condition so I am hoping this is it.

Thanks for the great suggestion!! I will report back if the condition continues for anyone that comes across this similar issue in the future.

Glad the lights are off. If they come back on, check for ground points anywhere that snow or road debris/water could splash onto.

 

[Kits]

Well lights didn't stay out for long, basically about 5-10 min while warming up the next morning. Found a factory service manual https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals in case anyone doesn't know about this site, get one this, take the time to read the steps, these things ave lives. I usually buy these for my vehicles and these ones are free, albeit super broken down into sections so it take a bit more time to find your issue but facorty knows best right?

Anyhow was able to determine and isolate a draw on my left rear sensor ( consistent with codes). I am super rookie at multimeters so always keep it on 12v so I don't blow my multimeter. and I am getting a 0.9 reading from the harness to ground ( been using several non circuit grounds to be certain ) I tested at the sensor connector with the sensor unplugged as I am hoping moisture in this connector is the problem. I get an initial draw which after a minute or so goes down to nothing and I cannot get any readings, no matter how much I reprobe. I should note I have a very home made back probe system with thin gauged wire taped to the ends of my probes but I always continuity test them and they work but its a weak link in the diagnostics for those following along at home.

Anyways last thing that worked as suggested was cleaning of the 3 grounds in the engine bay right off the harness, I even removed each wire and still had the draw reading so I hate to say but the last successful trial was a fluke, maybe a result of my truck warming up and unthawing.

That being said I think its either a short somewhere down the line to the sensor or hopefully a short at the connector. I have the connector apart, and cleaned, used canned air, also had a heater on it, and am hoping by morning it dries out enough to work again, But more than likely its going to the shop to chase the short, I don't have the tools or the time to do any more inspections than I have.

I will post the results for anyone dealing with this in the future

 

[Kits]

Quick update,

Left that sensor unplugged overnight and tested the draw off the positive lead to the sensor and the reading actually went up over night to 1.5 ( again on 12v setting forgive my multimeter ignorance ). Have it booked to goto the shop tomorrow.

Attached is the harness diagram the contact I am probing is 36 which is rear left side power. PS if you are referencing this the pattern is from the view from the back of the harness where the wires go in, not how you view it when its detached. So the left to right orientation is correct but the top and bottom are switched. This kinda threw me for a minute but not every slot is used and if you ref the terminals it becomes pretty clear.

 

[Kits]

Ok all final results are in, the shop found the short in the undercarriage. They said it was on the passenger side in the frame rail. I found this confusing as from what I saw the left rear sensor runs along the driverside, but there is a big system of wires and without opening those coverings its impossible to say where they split and run.

If you are experiencing this issue I highly suggest reading through the Factory service manual I posted above, take your time and read carefully through the steps, it really helped me isolate the issue and eliminated throwing new parts at a problem.

https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

 

[V8 man]

The chassis harness runs down the passenger side. All the wires in the chassis harness, including the left speed sensor, run down the right side of the chassis. The connection between the body and the chassis is right behind the right front tire.

 

[JimmyL]

Where did you find the process to get the codes to flash? My tool does not read these?

 

[smj999smj]

Where did you find the process to get the codes to flash? My tool does not read these?

You need a scan tool capable of reading "C-codes" in order to access the ABS system trouble codes. Most generic code readers will only read "P-codes." Autel makes some code readers that will read this codes.

 

[Ben Eberle]

Oh maaaaaannnnn......sigh....my 2012 SV just started doing this EXACT same thing. Father trucker. Ok. Will go look on the passenger's side frame rail. I can clear it with a simple shut down.....and back on. I get a pretty major "shimmy" or what feels like an engine stumble at times too. It's enough to make me curse out loud. Man....this truck has been kinda nothing but a pain. Beginning to think that there's a reason why Taco's are 6-8k more......

 

[16ProX]

Also experiencing an identical issue - 2016 pro-4x, automatic 69k miles. I guess ill jump into this and report back with findings for posterity. @Ben Eberle, do you ever find your root cause?

 

[Ben Eberle]

It's brutal, isn't it, 16Pro?

Yeah, so I went with a 108.00 after market rear sensor after getting the right one done at the dealer. They did what I could not.....which is extract the sheared bolt...and drop an OEM on in. I'm embarrassed to say what it cost...but, F-it...it worked and they turned it around in under 24hrs....which was worth every dime.

It acted up again...and boom: It was the left sensor! I think I experienced exactly what another member told me: They are finicky A-F.....and if the truck goes on and off a lift a few times and the folks don't quite get it right, the sensor harness gets stretched a bit. I found a little tear in the sheathing not far from where it goes into the hub.

108.00 delivered from Partsgeek.com. Can't remember the brand. I went for the middle grade. I just couldn't foresee a Chinese 35.00 sensor working very long. I dunno.

Did everything I could to eeeeaaaazzzzzze that baby out, but it also sheared. I looked at it though, and realized that a) it's REALLY tightly in there....and b) it's just a bolted in there. I popped the wheel off...rotor too...and just muscled the sensor out from the front side....and punched the broken bolt end out. You ready? That sensor just snubs right in there...you don't need to seat it with the bolt on the side. Plugged it all together...even angled the wire better so there is positive tension on the sensor...

Fired it up. Drove 2min and all the lights cleared. Haven't come back once. Probably a few thousand miles on it...all types of driving too. I haven't been nice to it. Zero issues.

It's a really easy repair...especially if those bolts come out easily and don't shear. Little rougher if they do...but not brutal.

OEM sensor is around 300.00 I think. The price difference was insane....you'll see

Hope this all helps.