[kgordon]

Hey everyone,
I have searched and not found a direct answer to this. As a bit of back story, all trailer lights and signals work when i bought the truck. About 2 years ago i had a rodent get in under the fuse blocks in the passenger wheel well and chew a bunch of wires causing everything to go nuts. The dealer found this and fixed the breaks and taped everything up. I then found more issues which i fixed which were directly under the fuse boxes which are a major pain to move and i could barely get enough room to solder.

Since that time the passenger trailer signal does not work. I have running lights, break lights and a driver signal. I check for power from the signal all the way to where the work was done in the wheel well and there is nothing. I am thinking that is is somewhere in those mess of wires that are tucked up and very hard to reach under the fuse blocks. So in an effort to find a more simple solution my wife actually thought of tapping off the rear signal on the truck and tying it into the wire for the 7 pin harness.

I have read how these trucks do not like their electrical played with and am a bit concerned that it will be too much for that side. If i were to do this do i need to fuse my tap off the rear in case it is too much load?

Open to suggestions.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[Nissan4Life]

It will work but the turn signals will not flash. You can flash them manually. This is because the turn signal flasher relay is a thermal /mechanical unit that is load dependent. That is why when one of your turn signal bulbs burns out the turn signal stops flashing. When you add more load (trailer TS bulb) it messes up the flasher. Maybe if the trailer TS was a LED you wouldn't have issues.

This is how my trailer wiring is set up. I did not use the Nissan system with the additional relay, and the harness that plugs into the special trailer wiring plug. I just got a "T" that taps into the tail light cluster. Super easy. DIsconnect tail ligth plug. Plug this harness into on end the other into the other.
looks like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-4351...ywords=nissan+frontier+trailer+wiring+harness

 

[kgordon]

It will work but the turn signals will not flash. You can flash them manually. This is because the turn signal flasher relay is a thermal /mechanical unit that is load dependent. That is why when one of your turn signal bulbs burns out the turn signal stops flashing. When you add more load (trailer TS bulb) it messes up the flasher. Maybe if the trailer TS was a LED you wouldn't have issues.

This is how my trailer wiring is set up. I did not use the Nissan system with the additional relay, and the harness that plugs into the special trailer wiring plug. I just got a "T" that taps into the tail light cluster. Super easy. DIsconnect tail ligth plug. Plug this harness into on end the other into the other.
looks like this

Not sure i understand the above, in relation to my situation. Everything but the one signal works and i need the 7 pin for the brakes.

I am willing to switch to LEDs as it will still be easier than trying to get that mess of cabling out of the frontier to inspect each inch.

Thanks for your response. I forgot that they are load dependent.

 

[NCFronty]

I have mine spliced into the taillights. Has worked since 2006 when I got the truck and installed the trailer lights plug. I cant vouch it works for every trailer etc. But it works perfect on my snowmobile trailer.

 

[Nissan4Life]

Not sure i understand the above, in relation to my situation. Everything but the one signal works and i need the 7 pin for the brakes.

I am willing to switch to LEDs as it will still be easier than trying to get that mess of cabling out of the frontier to inspect each inch.

Thanks for your response. I forgot that they are load dependent.

Basically to answer your question: YES you can splice the taillight wires. The kit I listed (though it is a a 4 pin) is an example of splicing the tail light wires, showing that it can be done. They do so at the plug connection so that it is nice and clean and so you don't have to use wire taps or some shave the insulation and wrap tap wire method. You might consider using a similar kit as you will then get the correct wire for either your L or R turn signal so you can tap into your 7 pin. Some find that the wiring bundle of the tail light confusing. With the harness you get 4 wires then you take either the Green or the Yellow and use it.

 

[kgordon]

Thanks for your help.

Attempted to hook up to a test trailer last night( buddies dump trailer at a farm) had no brakes and only one brake light. The plug was full of dirt though so i am hoping that it works.

I put a multimeter on the brakes pin and the ground and get 13 volts when the brake is depressed so i don't see an issue there.

Going to run to my shop at work and try a trailer there. Fingers crossed.

 

[TexasScout]

When I wanted to put trailer lights on mine, I went to U-haul because I didn't want to mess with it. It involves removing the passenger 1/4 panel and kick plates front and back to install several relays. On top of that it was $114.00. Mine worked two times and then quit. (no warranty as it was two years later.) If you want no hassle lights, spend the bux, and get the dealer to do it WITH a warranty. The dealer wanted $400+ to install the receiver hitch and light kit, I wish I had done it.

 

[kgordon]

When I wanted to put trailer lights on mine, I went to U-haul because I didn't want to mess with it. It involves removing the passenger 1/4 panel and kick plates front and back to install several relays. On top of that it was $114.00. Mine worked two times and then quit. (no warranty as it was two years later.) If you want no hassle lights, spend the bux, and get the dealer to do it WITH a warranty. The dealer wanted $400+ to install the receiver hitch and light kit, I wish I had done it.

I mentioned that everything worked for the first few years i had the truck until i had a rodent problem. I had the dealer throw in the hitch and 7 pin as part of the deal.