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I replaced my A/C condenser the other day in my 2011 Pro-4x 4.0Litre It wasn't a big job, just a bit fussy.
Here's the steps I followed:

before starting: took the truck to an A/C shop and had them evacuate the system. Bought new condenser, set of O-rings, bottle of PAG oil, and new shrader valves.

1) I removed the snaps from the top of the grill as well as three on the inside below, and pulled the grill back about an inch or two at the top to expose the two bolts that hold the two brackets securing the top of the radiator. Didn't need to remove the grill completely.
2) Removed two bolts from the plastic intake cover on the top of the engine, but did not remove this cover. I just loosened it enough to allow me to get at the two bolts that hold the big air intake pipe that goes across the front of the engine overtop the fan. By loosening the clamp at each end of this air intake and pulling out the two bolts and pulling off the rubber tube attached to it, I was able to remove it easily.
3) Removed the air filter housing top, along with the air flow meter, after disconnecting its electrical line.
4) Next, I disconnected the electrical wire from the the sensor attached to the passenger side of the condenser just below the refrigerant connection.
5) at this point I removed the two top radiator supports by pulling the grill back an inch or two and removed the two bolts. The brackets lift straight off. Once this is done, the radiator is able to tilt back. I tilted mine back a bit more than 1 inch, or just before the fan shroud contacted something on the engine. Be careful, and don't get greedy for space. You don't need a lot to pull the condenser out. I put a tie-down in place to hold the radiator in that tilted position.
6) Next, I disconnected the input and output refrigerant tubes from the condenser and pushed them aside a little bit. I had already had the refrigerant evacuated from the system by an A/C shop before starting.
7) Removed the two bolts that hold the condenser to the radiator. These are at the top left and top right, not far from the refrigerant input/output tubes. Easy to get to.
8) cut the tie-wrap that anchors the overflow tube near the passenger side bolt because the tube is in the way a bit and I moved it back.
9) unscrew the sensor just below the condenser output (passenger side). I didn't find any O-ring on this sensor, so perhaps it is a temperature sensor rather than a pressure sensor.
10) I then pulled the condenser out, more or less straight up, sort of. Took some fiddling, but the hardest part is getting the drier past the rad support sheet metal, which comes with a bit of angling and ka-noodling.
11) putting the new condenser in is pretty much the reverse procedure with these points:
a) pull the rubber booties off the bottom of the old condenser feet and put them on your new condenser before putting it in.
b) Put PAG oil into the new condenser before installing. Should put in about 2 oz. Do it very slowly because it doesn't flow in quickly. Found out by spilling a bunch.
c) Soak new O-rings in PAG oil and replace the two old O-rings with these. Carefully.
d) when you think you have your new condenser in place, check that the feet are inserted into the two supports at the bottom of the radiator.
12) took the truck to an A/C shop to recharge.

I asked the A/C shop to install the new schrader valves before recharging the system. The shop put about 1.5 lbs of refrigerant in after holding a vacuum for some time. The tech confirmed correct operation.

All together, the project cost approximately $105 for parts and $100 for all shop labor.
 
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