[Frontier14]

My 2014 Nissan Frontier has now crossed the 40,000 mile mark since purchasing new in August of 2014 with 33 original miles on it. It is still completely stock. I wanted to give a report on it for anyone interested. I can't cover every detail here, but a few things are on my mind I do want to mention.

I have read a lot on the stock tires, BF Goodrich Radial Long Trails, both good and bad. My experience has been good, but my truck nearly never sees any off roading. I have enough wear left in them for at least another 5000 or more miles and if they hold up until next summer then I will be content to say I got the wear from them they were capable of. The rear tires did wear in the center more than on the edges, even though I don't haul loads often at all, or tow anything besides a 4x8 Harbor Freight trailer with a 8' plastic boat on it. I attributed this wear to the recommended 35 psi of each tire and have since dropped my pressure to the 32 psi that I always kept tires at before. That was last year, or maybe 10,000 miles ago, and have not had any further issues. I also rotated the tires once, front to back, at that time and the same has not happened to the new rears yet, but again, it's only been 10,000 miles. I'll have a new set by time it would repeat. As far as I can see my alignment is still dead on with even wear on front tire edges.

Otherwise, my truck is running fine and doing everything I want it to and seems to have no performance issues at all.

I do admit I have not performed maintenance as recommended, not even oil changes at 5000 miles. I did the first two changes on schedule. The last three oil changes went about 10,000 miles between, which resulted in the truck using about a quart of oil each time. So it's had five of the eight changes it should have had. I know this is my fault, and I should not have done this. Life and weather got in the way a few times but I know I could have found time to do it and will in the future. I use full synthetic 5w-30 Pennzoil. I hope I have not done damage, but the truck seems to run strong, same as always. I changed it yesterday and will stay on top of it from now on. Also, I believe the transmission and rear end lubricants are due for a change as well, based on things I have read on this site. Correct? These are things I have never done on any vehicle ever, so I don't know what to expect, but I am interested in doing it myself if it's not hard.

I also noticed that the battery posts tend to build up corrosion, a bluish white chalky powder. I have twice removed the connections and scrubbed this away, the second time just yesterday. This time I got some corrosion preventative and coated the terminals. They're now a pretty red and nice and clean. Hopefully this will solve that. The truck had never even hesitated to start, however, even in bitter cold. But I know a corroded battery will start to fail eventually, not to mention dissolve my connections to nothing.

I welcome any comments and suggestions, and would appreciate any offered, even if it is a stern scolding for my lack of oil changes or other things.

 

[Shootisttx]

I have a 2011 CC, and I also just passed the 40k mile mark. My BFG Long Trails have about half the tread left, but due to the age of the tires, they will be replaced with 265/75R16's after the first of the year. My oil changes have been at about 5000 mile intervals at the dealer, with a tire rotation every other change. DO YOUR DUE DILIGENCE on oil changes, Sir. A 2 hour wait and 50 bucks for an oil change is cheap insurance. Also do your fluid changes per your owners manual.

I find that talking nice to your Frontier and a pat on the tailgate from time to time doesn't hurt, either. This is my 3rd Nissan truck (92K miles on my '85, 215k miles on my '91), and I would have no other brand in my driveway.

 

[Frontier14]

Well, my memory is going early in life. My wife helped me recall that I changed the oil at the 35,000 mile mark after all. So I only missed the 15,000 and the 25,000 mile changes. Still not good, but at least I only went 10,000 between oil changes twice instead of three times. I will stay on it better from now on.

 

[smj999smj]

If you are using full-synthetic, you are probably fine at 10,000 miles. I use Walmart's SuperTech Full-synthetic 5W30 in my 06 Pathy and had Blackstone Labs do an oil analysis of it with 7,500 miles on the oil (150,000 on the truck). They said all looked great and they said I could extend the interval to 9,200 miles. I still change the oil and filter at 7,500 mile (which is the factory recommended service interval for that vehicle), but I'm glad to know that I have some leeway. Also, keep in mind that their interval is based on conventional oil, not synthetic.
FYI, Nissan is always changing their oil change intervals. For a long time, it was 3750 miles. Then, it went to 7500 miles, back to 3750 and now it's at 5000 miles. If you ever want to be sure of how your oil is doing, have an analysis performed.

Blackstone Labs

 

[Frontier14]

Wonder what happened to the missing quart of oil? I put 5 in and only got 4 back out when I drained it. Did it truly burn a quart? I know there is a residual amount still in the engine and pan. I didn't wait until it stopped drizzling completely before putting the plug back in. But it was just a thin stringy stream pouring out when I plugged it. I drained it into a pan, oil filter also, and then poured all of that back into the jug that the new oil came out of to take to the auto parts store for recycling. It showed 4 quarts exactly on the indicating line on the side of the jug. As mentioned, the engine contained a residual amount and the old filter did, too, and so did the pan after I dumped it. But I doubt that would amount to more than half a quart total, but that is just a rough guess. So is it normal for the truck to burn half a quart or more? Can used motor oil lose viscosity and take up less volume or is that even possible?

 

[smj999smj]

Used motor oil takes up the same volume as new oil, so, the answer to your last question is "no." If you are saying you lost a quart of oil over 10,000 miles, I wouldn't be overly concerned about it. Nissan would tell you that's "normal." If you were losing it every 5,000 miles, I'd be a little more concerned, but Nissan would still likely tell you that's "normal" consumption, although, many owners would disagree because they don't lose that much over that span. You might want to check you capacity spec; my R51 V6's take 5-1/4 quart during an oil change. It may be only 5 qt. on a later model Frontier, but worth double-checking.

 

[10935]

The owners manual says 5 3/8's quarts for the V6. I've had three Frontiers and all of them got 6 quarts, every time. I buy the 5qt jug and a single, no problems whatsoever and if I run it long enough(maybe 7500 miles) I'll only get back 5qt's, been that way on all of them. In my estimation these VQ40 engines have more blow-by then previous cars I've owned, I think about installing an oil catch-can to collect it but haven't yet.

 

[J&JPolangin]

...I welcome any comments and suggestions, and would appreciate any offered, even if it is a stern scolding for my lack of oil changes or other things.

...congrats on your ride meeting your expectations, she'll last longer if you stick to your scheduled maintenance >

 

[OutFrontFrontier]

Glad your happy, I'm still in love with mine, Its paid for and I'm keeping it! I'm at 38Kmi, bought it new in 12/12 as dealer trade with 500mi @ delivery. All service done by me; oil changed @ 5Kmi w/Penz Plat 5/30 & a P1 or Wix filter. All other cases got M1 or Matic S at 30K. Stock Rugged fails got pulled at 28K(we get snow and I like good tread)for the HK ATMs.
I've read alot of threads about oil on Bob is the Oil Guy. I worked as an ASE cert maint mechanic for 5 years at a Toyota dealer from 1994-99. I've drained clean oil at 600mi and PUDDING at 30kmi. Servicing 20+ rigs/day really helped me understand what a solid maintenance plan can do for vehicle longevity. My opinion on 10Kmi. LOFs is this, Any properly rated API modern "synthetic" oil in a good running motor should be OK running 10K miles. The base stocks/additive packages are good enough to keep the oil performing its job barring contamination from fuel/dirt/h2o. The filter is where my concern lies. The media breaks down over time along with contaminant saturation could both lead to filter bypass, that's BAD My 07 Audi A4 recommended 10K from the factory, but would experience excessive burnoff from 5k and up so I would dump it then. My OCD along with lots of free time lets me take good care of my babies, inside and out. I want to "SEE LIGHT" thru my fluids when the come out. My truck is Hand washed ONLY, vacuumed weekly, clay bar/polish/seal 2-3x/yr, Regular fluid/filter changes...... But, my truck gets cornered hard, pedel to the meteled frequently, auto trans shifted manually & basically driven like an Indy car. Cuz it's mine, I can do what I want with it!! When I sell it , then its the next guys problem. Just have fun with it while you have it..

 

[Frontier14]

Oh, I'm happy with the truck. Ecstatic actually. It is so well designed and does literally everything I want a truck to do, but the best part is, every time I go to do something with it, not only does it do it but it seems to have been made to do that very thing.

I most certainly will get on schedule for the maintenance and stay regular on it.

 

[Frontier14]

Original poster here, back with another report. It’s been a full year since the last one. Truck now has 52,700 miles on it, and yesterday, 12-30-17, it finally got the stock tires replaced. They were due, maybe even a little overdue, but not horribly. I had originally rotated them front to back and back to front at about 30K miles. At that time I had noticed the rears had worn a slick stripe in the middle (not completely bare but the tread detail was gone). I had deflated the tires from 35 psi to 32 psi to try to solve this, but it didn’t help much. At some point I ended up going back to 35 psi (don’t remember just why) and ultimately ended up with all four tires having a slick middle row of tread with only the outline of it left. The other tread rows all still had detail in them at the time of replacement. There were zero signs of any misalignment and my steering wheel is still dead straight even after 52K miles of bumps and potholes.

For replacements, I had planned on going to the Pro-4X size of 265/75R16. As luck would have it, I need tires now, and have the time off to get them, but Walmart is the only place open in the area through 1-2-18. Two problems with that. First the only tires they have in that size looked like car tires concerning the tread pattern, and second, they refused to put any size on the truck except stock. I was determined to wait a few days to go elsewhere until I saw they had some Goodyear Wrangler RT/S in the original size of 265/70R16 for a good price. I loved the look of the tread and had them installed, figuring I’m already used to the size of the tires and how it affects my speed (speedometer says 60 but it’s closer to 56-57).

Concerning oil changes, I got back on track and change my oil at 5000 mile intervals. Truck still runs and drives like new. It does seem to use close to a quart between changes though but I always find half of that when I take the filter off. LOL.

 

[smj999smj]

I had to get two tires installed at a Walmart and noticed when I picked them up that they static balanced them. I asked for them to dynamic balance the wheels and after watching the installer balance the wheel twice, I realized he had no clue on how to properly balance wheels other than to static balance them. Meanwhile, a $6000 Coats 1250 wheel balancer sits in the middle of the shop, wasting space.. I ended up taking the wheels to a local GMC dealer to have them properly balanced; they just got a $17,000 Hunter Road-force wheel balancer and the $12/wheel cost to balance was only $3 more per wheel than what Walmart charges.

 

[Mathster]

Lets see.
I have a 13 that I bout with 13 miles on it. I have been running synthetic since the second oil change a 8000 to 10000 mile intervals. Mostly depending on what my plans are to allow time.
Im always use a 5 qt jug and get about 4-1/2 out. the rest I attribute to the filter and losses.
Tires lasted close to 50K, a set of wrangle walmart tires about 25K more (they were on my gen1 X before I traded it in). Now it has a set of Dextos or something like that.
Transmission drain and fill about every 30K.
Differentials, coolant, and brake fluid at 100K.
New battery in 2016.
Tonight, it sits at 111K and some change.

 

[Frontier14]

I haven’t done my transmission fluid yet. I’m kind of worried about that but mostly because of just thinking “what if”. It hasn’t had any problems at all. But at 52,700 miles I don’t want to wait anymore. Unfortunately I will be waiting until spring, which will mean another 5000 miles. I want to do it myself though. Is it hard to do? I’ve never done a transmission fluid and filter change in my life.

 

[Mathster]

ive just done drain and fill
there is a drain plug,
use a small funnel for the fill tube and pour slowly.

 

[Frontier14]

How many quarts does it take to refill it and what kind do you use? Mine is automatic.

 

[rodhotter]

good to hear good reports, tomorrow i will go check out a 38,000 2011 SV manual 6 spd, if its as nice as the pics i will drive it home!! i do almost all upkeep + from the pics it looks to be OE tyres so living in Pa the snow we get will require better tyres + i will downsize to a 245-75-16 from the factory 265-70-16, OD is almost identical as is the load ratings. a tonneau + bed mat next, need a tonneau to cover the house coal i haul, i am EXCITED!!!!

 

[smj999smj]

How many quarts does it take to refill it and what kind do you use? Mine is automatic.

There really is no serviceable filter in the auto trans; Jatco transmissions use a screen with the thinking that if there is enough debris in the fluid to clog the screen, then a trans overhaul is needed, not a service. Warm up the vehicle prior to servicing the trans fluid and park on a level surface (you really don't even need to jack it up). Just remove the 19MM drain plug and drain the fluid. Replace the drain plug gasket (P/N 11026-01M02...the same as the engine oil pan drain plug gasket...which you can get in bags in multiples of five on Ebay for relatively cheap). Reinstall the drain plug and torque to 26 ft/lbs. Remove the 10mm head bolt holding the dipstick in and install a funnel. Start with 3.5 quarts of appropriate auto trans fluid, such as NissanMatic "J" or "S," Castrol Transmax Multi-import ATF or, what I use, Valvoline Maxlife Full-synthetic ATF, for example. I get the Maxlife in a 1-gallon jug @ Walmart for about $18. Start the engine, cycle the transmission through the gears, put in "park" and re-check the trans fluid level. Add more trans fluid as needed; I usually use exactly 1-gallon or just a little less during a drain-and-fill. When done, reinstall the dipstick and bolt.

 

[ghmpm]

Congratulations! Glad you are happy with your truck! I generally change my oil at 5K or so also but am not OCD about it. Today's oils (even conventional) are so good these days that unless you run the vehicle very hard I doubt if you will see problems. I am running Mobil 1 5W-30 put in at dealer. I got several oil changes free with my purchase but my "old" back being what it is they will continue to change my oil. It'll be much cheaper than the chiropractor bills! LOL My 2015 came with a different model of T/A's (18 inch too) as it is an SL model but at 27K on the truck the tires are still doing OK. I will probably get 35K with mostly street use and a bit of 4X4 too.

 

[Mathster]

mine runs close to 3.5 quarts.
I dont start prior to, but do afterwards to check level.