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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'd like to know much more about the 4.0 engine...designer, weaknesses, strengths, improvements, etc. Is this engine superior to previous V6 models? I've always loved the 2.4 liter 4s of yesteryear, but the power of this beast is incredible! I just bought an S model crew. Very basic and stripped down, but peppy! I am coming up on my first oil change.

Thanks.
 

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Ahhh yes... I remember when I made the switch from a 2.4, It took me about a year before I started doing mods. Valve covers leak and fill the plug hole with oil, mostly passenger side near the firewall for some reason.
I got mine fixed warranty.

I have never had a problem, but I guess air can get trapped in the cooling system and cause heater to not work right.
An intake manifold spacer is a good upgrade. A tuner and exhaust also. None of those things alone are a silver bullet, but working together they really add up. If you want a custom dyno tune, do the mods first.

Throttle body spacer, coolant bypass, screen removal, and a "cold air intake" are generally considered a waste of money and time. The 4.0 has the same air filter set-up as the Titan. If I were to get one, the only one would be the AFE Momentum
 

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Leapvaun, the earlier ones had issues with the timing chain drive, that has been resolved in later models.
Not exactly 4.0 related but the early ones also had faulty radiators that eventually mixed the coolant with the transmission fluid when the internal cooler tank seal(s) failed at around 90 to 100k miles, that was around 2005 to 2010, the radiator codes in this mix are well documented here so if you have that one by chance, dump it ASAP and get a new replacement or upgrade to an all-aluminium aftermarket build.
The rear axle vents suck ( specifically because they DON'T suck but only blow LOL ), that applies to ALL years and models so do that mod first, it can be as cheap as under $20.00 and up to maybe $38.00-40.00 if you get more elaborate ( as I did ), & might save your axle from mega-$$$$$ later. Its well documented here on multiple OPs including mine. BTW that was my first mod about 3 weeks after I got the truck, March 2018.
 
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It's a solid motor, overall. The VQ-series has been in the US in various displacements and forms since the VQ30DE first appeared in the 1995 Maxima. The VQ40DE has been around since 2005 and really hasn't changed much since then. In 2007, they went from NGK Laser Platinum spark plugs to NGK Laser Iridium plugs. Some 2005-10 engines had upper timing chains that had improperly stamped link plates that would gradually cut through the plastic tensioner faces. Another problem that sometimes occurs is low oil pressure at idle due to failed oil gallery cover plate gaskets on the rear timing cover. They do make new gaskets, however, sometimes the cover plate bolts will not come out and the rear timing cover needs to be replaced. Cam position sensors and crank position sensors sometimes fail. Some people complain about the slightly rough idle. Overall, it's a good engine that has plenty of power for a 4.0L-V6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. I heard about the "milk shake" / "coolant-in-engine" problems of 05'-09' models, but that has been corrected, I'm told. Timing chain issues, ditto.

Hopefully, this will last me 300k+ miles. Since this is a 2019, I don't plan on dropping money on another payment for QUITE a good while!

I am one of these cats that just get the dealership to do my work since I suck with doing work myself.
 

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Thanks for the replies. I heard about the "milk shake" / "coolant-in-engine" problems of 05'-09' models, but that has been corrected, I'm told. Timing chain issues, ditto.

Hopefully, this will last me 300k+ miles. Since this is a 2019, I don't plan on dropping money on another payment for QUITE a good while!

I am one of these cats that just get the dealership to do my work since I suck with doing work myself.
Well, to be fair, the engine coolant/ATF cross-contamination issue was the result of a seal failing in the trans cooler inside the radiator, so that had nothing to do with the engine. Also, while the majority of failures have occurred on 2005-10 models, there have been a few 2011 failures and recently a reported 2013 model, so the jury is still out! All of those failed, however, have been on the factory-installed radiators and there haven't been any reported issues with the aftermarket replacements (the CSF all-aluminum radiators have had a number of issues, however, I don't think they've been cooler related).
 

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Over the last 35+ years, many of Nissan's V6 engines have been held in the highest regard and even garnered awards for their smoothness and refinement. I'm quite sure our VQ40 is not "world class smooth or refined"...but it is stout. Me & my right foot likey.
 
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Well, to be fair, the engine coolant/ATF cross-contamination issue was the result of a seal failure in the trans cooler inside the radiator, so that had nothing to do with the engine. Also, while the majority of failures have occurred on 2005-10 models, there have been a few 2011 failures and recently a reported 2013 model, so the jury is still out! All of those failed, however, have been on the factory-installed radiators and there haven't been any reported issues with the aftermarket replacements (the CSF all-aluminum radiators have had a number of issues, however, I don't think they've been cooler related).
The ATF/ coolant problem happened to my truck but Nissan claimed that I was 2300 miles passed the mileage warranty. I installed a new Radiator and Transmission, bypassed the radiator and installed a transmission cooler. One thing I did not see mentioned in the Forum is that the 2007 model had a problem with the fuel pump, the fuel hight sending unit, the part that rubs against the sensor, wears off and sends faulty information to the dashboard. There was also a problem, about the same time with the ECU, since min truck was one of the first to experience this problem Nissan did not issue a recall at that time and had to eat the cost of the parts, I do my own repairs which saved me some money.
 

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So far I have owned 19 Datsun/Nissan vehicles. My first was the 120Y. Some of the best were the Bluebird, the 260C and the 280C, the 260C hade a straight 6 and 280C an 8. those engines were easy to work on lasted till you got tired of them. The 2006 Frontier LE of which I'm trying to replace its engine has ( I checked it this morning ) 419.000 miles on it. It still runs, no knocks but it smokes like a chimney. When I removed the valve covers the heads look very clean, no carbon so I'm wondering if the problem is just a valve seal problem. The 2016 engine arrived today but after looking at the heads I'm having second thoughts. What say ye?
 

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Usually when valve seals fail, oil from the exhaust exits only at start-up and typically goes away once you start driving. If the rings are bad, you'll typically see it when you rev the engine or when you stomp on the gas while driving; worse case scenarios, you'll see oil burning out the exhaust all of the time and you'll see build-up on the spark plug end. To determine if the rings are in good shape, do an engine compression test and a cylinder leak down test. You'll also want to make sure your oil isn't getting diluted with gasoline by some means, so check for a strong odor of gas on the dipstick. That said, with 419,000 miles, it doesn't owe you anything!
 

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A coworker of mine has an '06 or so CC SWB, he's well over 200,000 miles on it and it hasn't had any significant mechanical trouble. My guess is this is why Nissan just kept building these trucks, truck buyers are more likely to be concerned with value for cost if something meets their minimum requirements, and if that kind of buyer wants to keep a truck for the long term, features that keep the vehicle serviceable and reliable are more important to plush features that don't wear terribly well. Being inexpensive also helps. In some ways these trucks sit in the truck market in the same place that the '67-76 Dodge Dart did in the passenger car market in its day, they're the same forever and ever, they're reasonably priced, they're reliable.
 

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they will last plenty long enough...once any engine gets 150-200k miles on it it's time to get a new truck because the piston rings are worn out by that time and you are burning oil. i mean you can keep driving it to 300-500k miles but you will be adding1/2 quart of oil a month to the engine....so is it really worth it? might as well sell it while you can still get some money out of it and start over with a new one.

that's why when i see tacomas with 150k miles on them for $20k+ for the price i just shake my head and say....what is wrong with people? who in their right mind pays $20k for a truck that's already burning oil because of worn piston rings? lol
 

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they will last plenty long enough...once any engine gets 150-200k miles on it it's time to get a new truck because the piston rings are worn out by that time and you are burning oil.
What the heck? 150k and worn rings? Are you playing?

nope...sometimes they go a bit longer to 200k but most cars and trucks start using oil around 150k because of worn rings. if you have to add any oil between oil changes it's worn rings or a blown head gasket or oil leak somewhere.
 

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Wow, that sounds like a Chevy / dodge thing. Never had it on any bmw or jeep I owned with less than 300k

nope it happened on all toyotas, hondas, nissans me and my family has owned....even my 1988 1st gen tacoma before they called them tacomas.

i've never owned a ford, chevy, or dodge in my life. my dad's dodge 1500 started using oil around 150k though.

the old jeep engines would last a good while but new ones will not last as long. they are crap now days since they joined with fiat.

i had a 1988 toyota truck and my brother had a 1984 nissan 300zx. we kept both of them until 300k miles. they started using oil before 200k miles on them. it's just normal for any engine. the rings wear out. they don't last forever. the newer the vehicle the less amount of time they will last too because everything is made cheaply these days. the metal isn't as good or as high of quality like the old days.

my dad has a 1972 chevy c-10 pickup. that thing is almost 50 years old and it would outlast a brand new chevy truck guaranteed.
 

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You guys have bad luck than. I had 800k on an 86 bmw 524td, 350k on my 89 325i, over 250k on many jeep 4.0s, and over 300k on a 302 on my 85 f150.

I say Chevy's but I did (covering face in shame) have 800k on an 87 305 in a c1500.

My only previous Nissan was blowing oil out the tail pipe at 150k. It was an 85 300z
 

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i never had a bmw and never will. lol none of my family has either. maintenance costs are too high on those. we aren't rich. 800k? must have been a diesel engine? gas engines don't last that long unless all you do is drive on the interstate all of the time. those 1 million mile vehicles you hear about are a joke. that is not reality for most people daily driving in city and highway combined.

yeah like i said the old jeeps were good. the new ones will not last as long. the quality ain't what it used to be.

anyways we aren't talking about how long an engine lasts i'm talking about how long they last before they start to burn oil. there is no way a gas engine will last 800k and not use a drop of oil. if you are saying that you are full of shizz. lol

also the years you posted are all from the 80s. they don't make cars and trucks that good anymore. it's planned obsolescence these days. they only want them to last 150-200k and then blow up so you'll go buy a new one.

but frontiers will last 300-400k if taken care of...they will start using oil way before that mileage though. probably around 150-200k miles.
 

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they are all 80s cars and I used to think that manufacturers made their vehicles to die out after a few years but I don't think so anymore. the tolerances are way tighter than they used to be and lubricants are better so stuff actually lasts longer. back in the old days (60s, 70, 80s), if you had 100 to 150k on an engine, you were lucky (except European cars, they always lasted many miles). now, cars make that mileage in the first five years and still run strong for double that amount.

they have been trying new metals and alloys in the blocks that have caused problems in the cylinders and caused recalls, but in general, engines last much longer now than they used to in the past.
 

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Yes, its 28 yrs old but my 92 Grand Prix STE at 187k doesnt use any oil ( Mobil I since 1997, I'm the second owner ). The old 2.8 / 3.1 / 3.4 pushrod / 3400DOHC architecture wasn't very powerful in most iterations ( mine's a bit of an exception at 221WHP ) but they were pretty long-lived. My 1983 2.8L Camaro ( same basic block ) had 317k miles and didnt burn oil. It needed another carb and the valve guide seals were getting tired, so I ended up selling it for $1k in 1998, but I think it would have gone another 100k had I been able to inspect it and keep driving it.
 
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