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2nd Gen - Lower Ball joints replacement

11K views 26 replies 7 participants last post by  mialjojo 
#1 · (Edited)
Searched/Looked and can't see a guide. Would like to know the absolute minimum work required to replace - every video I've watched includes (but not always) track rods, driveshafts, upper ball joints, etc.
Could someone describe order of ops and what tools required so I know what to do and don't end up with a truck in bits and needing to get to town for a part/tool.
Thanks
Chip
 
#4 ·
Nissan actually recommends replacing the control arm assembly because if you stretch the hole out in the arm, the new ball joint could potentially come loose and fall out of the arm, leaving only the snap ring to keep the knuckle attached. Nissan doesn't sell the ball joint separately, but it is available on the aftermarket and some people will replace just the ball joint. Sometimes that bites them, however, when they go to do an alignment and find that the control arm bolts have seized to the steel sleeve in the bushing and the control arm needs to be cut out using a sawzall. If you do replace just the joint, you want to get the steering knuckle assembly out of your way. That would mean disconnecting the tie rod, removing the brake caliper and hanging out of the way, removing the axle nut and upper ball joint. If you want to cut some weight, also remove the brake caliper bracket and rotor.
 
#5 ·
Nissan actually recommends replacing the control arm assembly
Replacing the control arm is the way to go. The control arm is like $80 vs $20 for a ball joint, and you get fresh bushings as well. If you have more time than money and want to try it out, it's possible to do with a ball joint service kit that you can rent from AutoZone.

If you live where it snows or otherwise rusts cars, I'd spray the cam bolts daily with Aerokroil or something similar for about a week. If the cam bolts are lightly seized then you can knock 'em out with the help of Aerokroil and maybe an air hammer.
 
#7 ·
I put in Moog LBJ both sides about 6mo ago along with bushings/camber bolts, swaybar links, Moog coil springs, Nolathane swaybar bushings and upper shock bushings, and Bilstien 5100's all around with a 2" lift. You do not want to get into replacing the whole LCA if cost is a factor. The camber bolts rarely come out without cutting them with a sawzall, and you do not want the cheap welded washer gr5 bolts.

Moog LBJ's are straight knurled slightly oversize for the very reason to go back in tight. Pull the brakes and hang the caliper, pull the axle nut (had to buy a socket) and wheel sensor, put a jack under the LCA and put a little pressure on it. Remove the lower shock bolt pop the UCA off and tie it up, then lower the LCA and remove the shock/spring assy. Drive a chisel in the slot for the pinch bolt and the LBJ shaft should easily slide out.

You will probably need to swing the swaybar down out of the way also. If I'm not the only one, the first side will take forever, second side will take 45 minutes...
 
#12 ·
Pull the brakes and hang the caliper, pull the axle nut (had to buy a socket) and wheel sensor, put a jack under the LCA and put a little pressure on it. Remove the lower shock bolt pop the UCA off and tie it up, then lower the LCA and remove the shock/spring assy. Drive a chisel in the slot for the pinch bolt and the LBJ shaft should easily slide out.

You will probably need to swing the swaybar down out of the way also. If I'm not the only one, the first side will take forever, second side will take 45 minutes...
Didn't remove spring/shock as I couldn't see why it would help nor the sway bar. Left the tie-rod/track-rod end in place too as I realised I could give myself enough room to pull the 'hub' casting (what's the proper name for that?!) off the half-shaft by turning the steering all the way to which ever side I was working on.

Still took an evening and all the next day as I didn't have all the tools I needed and I'm still not quite done, with an axle nut that doesn't wanna go back on - slightly damaged threads.

Also remembered why I stopped doing mechanicking..

Last thing I did was try to use my battery booster to put my windows up, having flattened the battery during the day with the ignition on first click to keep the steering free, but connected it back to front resulting in a big spark. Now I have no lights and a flashing 'key in a car' symbol on the dash - how bad is what I've done and how do I fix that?!..

Battery on charge over night.
 
#16 ·
Hey Charlie
Thanks for your reply and yes, I eventually found those fuses after a bit of noodling around trying everything - I had no idea that's what that unit was and couldn't see the fuses for the grime that covered everything! :) One had indeed blown and I have a replacement unit on order due tomorrow so fingers crossed that's all it is.
Cheers
 
#23 ·
You just have to remember that unless you release the tension of the torsion bars, there will be several hundred pounds of spring pressure on the lower control arm. It would be no different if you were working on a vehicle that had a coil spring putting pressure on the lower control arm. You need to place a jack or jackstand under the control arm so the vehicle's weight will be on the suspension. If you were to disconnect a ball joint without a jack or jackstand under the control arm, the spring pressure would force the lower control arm down, potentially causing damage or injury.
 
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