[CopperSV]

I have been reading quite a bit of posts throughout the Audio/Video section of the forum. I am looking to possibly change out my 2017 SV radio with a Pioneer Double Din if I can retain all of my factory options (Antenna, XM, USB, AUX In, Steering Wheel Controls, BlueTooth, and Back Up Camera), if at all possible. I have listed the parts I have found so far. I am unable to find the XM piece I need, the Aux piece, and the Bluetooth piece.

Head Unit
Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS $349

Antenna
Metra 40-NI12 $8

XM
??

Bluetooth
??

Aux In
??

Steering Wheel Controls
Axxess ASWC-1 $55

Back Up Camera
Axxess AX-NIS32SWC $10

If it is not possible to retain all of the stock options on the new head unit please let me know, any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[2008_NISMO_KY]

SIRIUS SXV300V1 Tuner will provide XM. Head unit is XM ready.

Bluetooth capability is built into the head unit as are mini RCA plugs for auxiliary and AV input.

Axxess has not tested their interface with the 2017 yet. Call them for assistance. You'll also need the vehicle specific cable for the Axxess.

OEM control retention is based on the capabilities and features of the new head unit. I kept almost everything in a 2008.

 

[CopperSV]

SIRIUS SXV300V1 Tuner will provide XM. Head unit is XM ready.

Bluetooth capability is built into the head unit as are mini RCA plugs for auxiliary and AV input.

Axxess has not tested their interface with the 2017 yet. Call them for assistance. You'll also need the vehicle specific cable for the Axxess.

OEM control retention is based on the capabilities and features of the new head unit. I kept almost everything in a 2008.

I appreciate the info, it seems that I have a lot of homework to do before I start this project.

 

[2008_NISMO_KY]

I'd suggest you start with Crutchfield (www.crutchfield.com). They're good for getting a baseline price and they list everything required for an install when you build an order for a specific vehicle. After re-reading your original post I noticed that you're also missing the trim kit and wiring harness.

Read all the install threads located on this forum after that. There's some great info there.

IMHO people make this harder than necessary. Mine was a straight up head unit (Kenwood DDX9903S) and backup camera. Had to make a couple of mods to the factory BT connector and configure the Axxess module for steering wheel controls. Entire process took about 3.5 hours. Make SURE you download the PC configuration utility from Axxess.

 

[raine]

Apart from some wire colors, from what I remember when I did the same to my truck and a friend's truck (mine is a '14, his was a '16) model years 2014-16 can retain everything. Seeing as the 2017 is essentially the same as the 16's, shouldn't be any different. If you have all the parts before installing, it's a piece of cake - including programming the ASWC-1.

Head Unit - If you want plug and play you'll need the custom 16-wire adaptor harness to keep steering wheel controls, along with the ASWC-1. Or you can buy a couple of the common 13-wire harnesses (Metra 70-7552) and just move 3 wires over from one to another to get the 16 wires you need. Otherwise the common 13-wire gets you going, but you'll need to splie 3 more wires from the vehicle-side harness to use with the ASWC-1.

AM/FM Antenna - Metra Metra 40-NI12 is correct.
XM - Just need a FAKRA antenna adapter to connect your XM reciever to the OEM satt antenna plug.

Bluetooth - Use the aftermarket mic, if you're crafty you can install it in the OEM mic location like I did. However to get the steering wheel phone controls working, you have to bypass 3 pairs of wires at the OEM bluetooth module, should be under the passenger seat.

Aux In - If you have a USB port in your center console bin as the "Aux In" then AX-NISUSB-2 will mate the OEM USB harness to your aftermarket head unit.

Steering Wheel Controls - I use an ASWC-1, have excellent results. Some people have nightmares with it (not sure why) and go with the PAC version. Again, neither Axxess nor PAC units will be plug and play if you don't have the 16-wire main harness, you'll be cutting and splicing the factory wires.

Back Up Camera - Since you listed one, I'm guessing you don't have the factory backup camera. You can either run new wires all the way from the back of the truck to the head unit, or splice into the OEM camera harness at the tailgate (kind of a pain in the you know what to do). If you choose to use the factory wiring, AX-NIS32SWC will connect that to your aftermarket head unit.

EDIT: added link

 

[2008_NISMO_KY]

Good points. Mine's an 08 so things were somewhat simpler.

I used this to replace the OEM audio input as I didn't have any panel mount USB connections. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XJDP12W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The manufacturer has other options such as USB and HDMI, just depends on what you want.

 

[CopperSV]

Thanks for the info, yes I do have factory back up camera. I may just start with switching out speakers and adding a small sub for extra base under the rear seat. Then might tackle the head unit.

 

[raine]

Thanks for the info, yes I do have factory back up camera. I may just start with switching out speakers and adding a small sub for extra base under the rear seat. Then might tackle the head unit.

Ah I just noticed in your sig you have the Value Package too, for some reason when I listed the AX-NIS32SWC I totally read your first post wrong HAHA - but yeah, having the VTP makes it super easy.

IMO after going through the process myself, if you have a choice between A. speaker swap + sub, or B. head unit, I would vote to do the head unit first.

If you do speakers + sub, the sound of the main speakers might be louder but it won't be any better (quality-wise) due to the limitations of the OEM head unit. And for the sub you'll have to remove the center console and head unit just to get your subwoofer signal; whether you tap into the speaker-outs for a high level signal or you use a line level converter for a low signal, you still have to get back there behind the head unit. And then you'll have some bass, but similar to the main speaker issue - the bass won't be as good as it should be because once again, the OEM head unit drops highest highs and lowest low frequencies when the volume is turned up.

On the other hand, if you do head unit first, you take care of the heavy labor up front - you install the new head unit, get all the adaptors connected, get your bluetooth and steering wheel controls setup, Aux/USB works, Xm works, and while you're there you can run some RCA cables from the head unit sub out to wherever you plan on putting your sub (or sub amp). So from here you'll have all OEM functions still working. Then you can do the main speakers later (which involves door panels only, no center dash removal) and experience the increase in sound quality and output... and likewise, you can do subwoofer later (you already ran the subwoofer RCA cables so you're good to go, no center dash removal) and then you'll have a complete setup.

I only suggest this because God knows how many times I pulled the center console and the center dash apart when I did mine step by step LOL

 

[CopperSV]

Ah I just noticed in your sig you have the Value Package too, for some reason when I listed the AX-NIS32SWC I totally read your first post wrong HAHA - but yeah, having the VTP makes it super easy.

IMO after going through the process myself, if you have a choice between A. speaker swap + sub, or B. head unit, I would vote to do the head unit first.

If you do speakers + sub, the sound of the main speakers might be louder but it won't be any better (quality-wise) due to the limitations of the OEM head unit. And for the sub you'll have to remove the center console and head unit just to get your subwoofer signal; whether you tap into the speaker-outs for a high level signal or you use a line level converter for a low signal, you still have to get back there behind the head unit. And then you'll have some bass, but similar to the main speaker issue - the bass won't be as good as it should be because once again, the OEM head unit drops highest highs and lowest low frequencies when the volume is turned up.

On the other hand, if you do head unit first, you take care of the heavy labor up front - you install the new head unit, get all the adaptors connected, get your bluetooth and steering wheel controls setup, Aux/USB works, Xm works, and while you're there you can run some RCA cables from the head unit sub out to wherever you plan on putting your sub (or sub amp). So from here you'll have all OEM functions still working. Then you can do the main speakers later (which involves door panels only, no center dash removal) and experience the increase in sound quality and output... and likewise, you can do subwoofer later (you already ran the subwoofer RCA cables so you're good to go, no center dash removal) and then you'll have a complete setup.

I only suggest this because God knows how many times I pulled the center console and the center dash apart when I did mine step by step LOL

That is why I was looking to do the head unit first, so I could run RCAs and Remote wire to the AMP for future use. I just need to figure out all of the adapters, I guess I could always use the Pioneer microphone that comes with the head unit and install that where the factory mic is if I can't figure out how to integrate the stock bluetooth. It seems like everything else is easy to integrate besides that.

 

[raine]

That is why I was looking to do the head unit first, so I could run RCAs and Remote wire to the AMP for future use. I just need to figure out all of the adapters, I guess I could always use the Pioneer microphone that comes with the head unit and install that where the factory mic is if I can't figure out how to integrate the stock bluetooth. It seems like everything else is easy to integrate besides that.

Yes, everything except the bluetooth mic is pretty much plug and play. All the adaptors are already listed above.

As far as I know there's no adaptor harness to break out the OEM microphone from the rest of the bluetooth module harness. I suppose you could use a DVM to find what wires lead to the OEM microphone, then you'd have to splice in a long 2 wire harness with a 3.5mm plug at the end (to plug into the aftermarket head unit)... I didn't bother because it was just more convenient to run the new Kenwood microphone cable from the dash, up the A-pillar, to the factory BT mic spot.

 

[CopperSV]

Yes, everything except the bluetooth mic is pretty much plug and play. All the adaptors are already listed above.

As far as I know there's no adaptor harness to break out the OEM microphone from the rest of the bluetooth module harness. I suppose you could use a DVM to find what wires lead to the OEM microphone, then you'd have to splice in a long 2 wire harness with a 3.5mm plug at the end (to plug into the aftermarket head unit)... I didn't bother because it was just more convenient to run the new Kenwood microphone cable from the dash, up the A-pillar, to the factory BT mic spot.

Do you recommend the Pioneer or Kenwood, I know both are great head units. I have an iPhone so I want the one that is the best buy for use with an iPhone.

 

[raine]

Do you recommend the Pioneer or Kenwood, I know both are great head units. I have an iPhone so I want the one that is the best buy for use with an iPhone.

I have an iPhone also... I usually stick to Kenwood because it uses Garmin for the navigation part, although I haven't taken a look at the new 16-17 Pioneer NEX units yet

 

[adorflinger]

Head Unit - If you want plug and play you'll need the custom 16-wire adaptor harness to keep steering wheel controls, along with the ASWC-1. Or you can buy a couple of the common 13-wire harnesses (Metra 70-7552) and just move 3 wires over from one to another to get the 16 wires you need. Otherwise the common 13-wire gets you going, but you'll need to splie 3 more wires from the vehicle-side harness to use with the ASWC-1.

Can you elaborate on this custom 16-wire harness? Is this an Axxess product? I'm reading this thread and looking to upgrade the head unit my 2018 Pro-4x. Like OP, I want everything to work.

 

[raine]

For steering wheel controls to work you have to add 3 extra wires to the Metra 70-7552 harness:

Pin #6 (Remote A)
Pin #15 (Remote -)
and Pin #16 (Remote B)

Or you can also buy this: http://ae64.com/20-pinfwdharness.htm