Nissan Frontier Forum banner
21 - 40 of 47 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well during lunch I tried to figure out how to run the back-up camera wiring. I looked and looked for a decent place to run into the cab without drilling a hole. Eventually I tried to run the wire through the vent holes in the back of the cab... it worked! The ONLY issue I see is that there will be the cable hanging from the back of the cab to the bottom of the bed out in the open - I wonder if anyone has had any issues with that? I mean, you cannot see it and I'll have the cable secured inside and out but that seems to be the only real issue.

I had enough wire to run to the back and to the head unit. I'll focus on the wiring part of that after I have the interior finished up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,109 Posts
Well during lunch I tried to figure out how to run the back-up camera wiring. I looked and looked for a decent place to run into the cab without drilling a hole. Eventually I tried to run the wire through the vent holes in the back of the cab... it worked! The ONLY issue I see is that there will be the cable hanging from the back of the cab to the bottom of the bed out in the open - I wonder if anyone has had any issues with that? I mean, you cannot see it and I'll have the cable secured inside and out but that seems to be the only real issue.

I had enough wire to run to the back and to the head unit. I'll focus on the wiring part of that after I have the interior finished up.
2 things here to consider:

A. If you mean the pressure relief vent (with "doggy door") there might be an issue of bugs crawling into the cabin (depends where you live) since by running cables through that opening you basically keep the door open at all times.​
B. Likewise, its a little contradictory laying down a bunch of sound deadening material back there, only to keep that vent door open so all the road noise from under the vehicle can just make its way back into the cabin through that open door.​

I'm not sure if the King Cab has it, but on my Crew Cab there is a large grommet just behind the driver's seat on the floor, I used that grommet to run all of my wiring for the bed area (bed LEDs, tailgate lock, Shuttle cam).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Guys, thanks for the input.

Raine, I understand and it isn't wrong,. although the flap for that vent is pretty thin so I'm not sure it is really shielding much road noise even when fully shut. I do, however, have a hole in the floor when the driver's seat has a non-threaded fixed bolt. I'm not sure exactly what the bolt is for other than lining up the seat? With the 4 threaded bolts for the seat I wonder if I can remove that non-threaded bolt and use that hole?

I do agree that using the vent isn't the most optimal solution, but I definitely want to avoid drilling into the vehicle.

I will be removing the full carpet today and I'll see if there is another access point like the grommet you mentioned sirnixalot.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,109 Posts
Raine, I understand and it isn't wrong,. although...
I do agree that using the vent isn't the most optimal solution, but...
335274


Hahha... I'm kidding. It's your truck, you make the call.

Again - check the floor right behind the driver's seat (right about above where the chassis rail is under the cab) for a large rubber plug/grommet... not sure if you can since it looks like you already covered the floor there with numerous layers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Haha! I know! But I know what I don't know, so taking in everyone's suggestions and comments is important. As soon as I put the camera wire in the vent and it worked I was like... ok that's great! But then I WAS worried about the wire being exposed outside... and I knew it wasn't really the best solution...

SO - the question is... you guys all talk about "grommets" in these threads.... is THIS what you are talking about?

335277
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Hey, thanks - yes that could be used and would be a little better than the vent, but I think I found something on the floor. There is a plastic cover (white) that I think can accept a screw, and it appears to do nothing... it is on the driver's side and it does go all the way through the floor so I think I'm going to drill that out and use it for the rear camera. More to come on that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I had a few days here with time so I made some decent progress. I was able to finish up the Mat66 application on the floor and on the front doors. I was also able to foam the floor on the driver's side, but I ran out of the material and had to order some more. Should arrive tomorrow, but probably won't be a day or day before I can install on the rest of the floor and also on the doors.

Here you can see the driver's side floor with foam all the way up behind the pedals. I left a channel for my wires for the front speakers.

335334


Now that the floor was done (I couldn't do the passenger side floor yet - I need to wait for the new foam to come in) I decided to tackle the doors! Taking the panel off was fairly easy and I was pleasantly suprised by the vapor barrier. Not that it was very GOOD, but that it created a perfect media for me to apply the foam for the door. My plan is to apply the foam to the front and the back of the vapor barrier which should seal up the door nicely.

335335


The barrier came off easily, and I was very happy to see LOTS of real estate for the Mat66. Much easier to apply here than in the small rear 1/2 doors.

335336


I'll compare the speakers now... taking out these door speakers was pretty easy and I'm continually amazed by the number of different kinds of clips used in this vehicle. Instead of just installing the speakers like you or I would, there is a special clip used to connect the speaker wire to the speaker. Anyhow, the speakers are VASTLY inferior to aftermarket speakers. The 6.5" speakers in the back doors were not that much different feeling than my new ones, but these 6x9s are not even close to the Infinity speakers. What a difference!

335337


And, of course, that is just one part of the speakers since I am installing component speakers in the front.

335338


The doors were pretty easy to tackle. I had extra Mat66 (since I'm just about done installing it) so I put two full layers on the entire inside of the door. I then placed in various places on the frame of the door - and plus I'm going to have the 2 layers of foam covering the entire thing. Should be pretty solid.

I confirmed that the wiring going into the door is NOT a molex-type of connector. So, the rubber chase for the wires does have room for my wire, which is a relief. I didn't want to get into drilling our open pins in the molex to make room for the wire.

I also confirmed that my truck (2014 SV) does NOT have factory tweeters. So, the tweeter location is empty. I'm thinking of creating a small bracket and installing my Infinity tweeters in that factory location. It isn't ideal... so I do have to think about other options (I was thinking about the A-pillar) but I also would prefer to keep the general stock look and avoid doing too much cutting or drilling. The Infinity tweeters came with some funky brackets that I haven't quite figured out... nothing that screams "easy install" but I haven't spent much time with them yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
An observation... I love the truck and the basic nature of it... I bought for the solid V6 motor and the mid-size, well, "size", but also like the fact that the style hadn't changed in 15 years (until 2021) so the truck still looked kinda "newish" in style and design. This project has been a great way for me to get to know the truck better and really understand more of how it is put together, etc... and after my last two weeks I can honestly say that it really doesn't seem like Nissan put too much time and effort into this truck after the initial design. There is a lot of CHEAP material in this truck. Much of the plastic is super flimsy (don't get me started on the tailgate). I will say, however, that while the plastic looks and feels cheap in this truck, I have yet to break any of it... the clips have not broker when I removed panels and the re-installation of the materials looks pretty straightforward. I've definitely broken plastic clips in other cars, so that is a plus.

And, man... it looks like the electrical engineer used up 6 or 7 rolls of electrical tape when he or she installed the wiring. I'm not a mechanic, so this may be completely normal for vehicles, but I was really surprised by how much electrical tape is in this truck. On top of that, the vast amount of electrical clips still amazes me. Another part that I was not ready for was the fact that you have USB inputs in the truck and ALL of them have unique wiring to get into the radio or the electrical system. What I mean is that there isn't a basic male/female set-up... there is the female input and then the male is hardwired in... probably pretty standard I guess, just thought perhaps I could re-use the wire (wrong).

It still stumps me why Nissan used 4 different shades of tan (and a RANDOM silver part in the door), but that is a question/thought for another day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I worked on the truck last night for a few hours. I was able to finish up the foam install on the floor and also the doors.

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Bumper Wood


Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior


The bulk of the night was running the new 12-gauge wire through the rubber gaskets between the door and frame. Yikes, that was not fun. I eventually got it using a wire hanger and soap... but it was a bit of struggle. The 12-gauge wire is fairly thick, which didn't help. But, I got the wire run... and then I put the foam vapor barrier back on the doors.

Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Automotive tail & brake light


I ran the wire to the speakers and got those set up as well. The next step was figuring out the tweeter placement. After looking at options and locations I decided to place the tweeters on the stock placement grill. It allows me to easily install the tweeters without fashioning a bracket, and I'm able to slightly tilt the tweeter away from the windshield (vs just installing them face-up in the stock location). I think they look pretty good there, and hopefully they sound good. They seem too small to be effective, but we shall see (hear!)!


Automotive parking light Vehicle Grille Automotive lighting Automotive tire


As an aside, the Infinity mounting hardware for the tweeters is SUPER confusing and not very effective. I figured it out, but they give you a bunch of mounting options with hardware (which is good!) but then give you a universal installment manual for ALL their speaker models (which is bad!)... it took some trial and error but I think it works pretty well with the set-up I ended up using.

Next I need to get the tweeters connected and then run the back-up camera wire and the USB wire from the center console. I noticed that my wire extender (which is rectangular) is too small to fit in the existing opening (also rectangular, but larger) so I either need to build a small plate for that area, or cut up the original connection and retro-fit it... I'll take some pictures as I work on that.

ALMOST ready to start the actual wiring and stereo install!

Almost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,961 Posts
I worked on the truck last night for a few hours. I was able to finish up the foam install on the floor and also the doors.

View attachment 335478

View attachment 335479

The bulk of the night was running the new 12-gauge wire through the rubber gaskets between the door and frame. Yikes, that was not fun. I eventually got it using a wire hanger and soap... but it was a bit of struggle. The 12-gauge wire is fairly thick, which didn't help. But, I got the wire run... and then I put the foam vapor barrier back on the doors.

View attachment 335480

I ran the wire to the speakers and got those set up as well. The next step was figuring out the tweeter placement. After looking at options and locations I decided to place the tweeters on the stock placement grill. It allows me to easily install the tweeters without fashioning a bracket, and I'm able to slightly tilt the tweeter away from the windshield (vs just installing them face-up in the stock location). I think they look pretty good there, and hopefully they sound good. They seem too small to be effective, but we shall see (hear!)!


View attachment 335481

As an aside, the Infinity mounting hardware for the tweeters is SUPER confusing and not very effective. I figured it out, but they give you a bunch of mounting options with hardware (which is good!) but then give you a universal installment manual for ALL their speaker models (which is bad!)... it took some trial and error but I think it works pretty well with the set-up I ended up using.

Next I need to get the tweeters connected and then run the back-up camera wire and the USB wire from the center console. I noticed that my wire extender (which is rectangular) is too small to fit in the existing opening (also rectangular, but larger) so I either need to build a small plate for that area, or cut up the original connection and retro-fit it... I'll take some pictures as I work on that.

ALMOST ready to start the actual wiring and stereo install!

Almost.
Foam's looking good.
12GA speaker wires?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,961 Posts
Thanks!

Yeah, bigger is always better, right?! Well, except for running through rubber hoses already stuffed with wires.
16's really enough, but hey, you already ran them so you should have basically zero voltage drop from amplifier to voicecoil. 12's are good for high-draw subwoofers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
392 Posts
Looks really good, I'm in the middle of doing something similar with my Tweeter placement. Very interested in how that particular part turns out. The budget oriented kicker component tweeters that I have come with a cone to point toward you that I was thinking of mounting on top of the grill similar to what you did. Currently they're on a plate underneath the grill. Nice work.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,109 Posts
12GA speaker wires?
Was gonna say the same :D

There won't be much if any drop considering no speaker wire from amp to speaker location would be any longer than about 8 feet (unless you mount the amp in the truck bed or something weird)
A for effort though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
When I was purchasing everything the 12ga wire showed up and it wasn't too expensive so went for it... would have gone smaller if I was thinking about running through the rubber channels, but no big deal either way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Looks really good, I'm in the middle of doing something similar with my Tweeter placement. Very interested in how that particular part turns out. The budget oriented kicker component tweeters that I have come with a cone to point toward you that I was thinking of mounting on top of the grill similar to what you did. Currently they're on a plate underneath the grill. Nice work.
Thanks, I like it - some won't like that it is visible but I prefer to have them above the dash.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I had some extra time this weekend and was able to put in a bunch of quality time with the project. I'll update with a few pictures tomorrow, but got the rough wiring done and did a test-run of the system and MAN DOES IT ROCK !!!!

What a difference!!! Still need to do a bunch of work, but so far very impressed and thankfully all this work appears to have been worth it.
 
21 - 40 of 47 Posts
Top