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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone... over the next 2-3 weeks I'm going to install some new gear... looking to strip the truck and add sound deadening materials and then completely update the audio system.

  • New Sony head unit
  • Infinity 6x9 component speakers
  • Infinity 6.5 coaxial speakers
  • Kicker 10" sub
  • JVC 5 channel amp
  • back-up camera
  • siriusXM controller

My truck is a 2014 but only has 50k so I figured it would be worth it to get a back-up camera installed since my son will be driving this (16 years old) so while looking at options I went down the "audio upgrade rabbit hole" and figured if I'm adding a head unit and back-up camera we might as well just update the entire thing. So, I'll be:

#1, cover the seats. I have the tan/sand cloth interior and it just doesn't look very nice. On top of everything, it has 3 different shades of tan in the vehicle. The seats were a little stained as well so I figured I would cover them and inject a little contrast in the truck (plus, the tan will be tough to match with aftermarket covers). I initially started with $30 AutoQuest black covers. AWFUL It ripped in the middle of the seat while I was trying to put it on the driver's side seat. Then, I found a set of covers at AutoZone for $55 that were black and they looked OK, but the headrests looked stupid. So, eventually I decided to just get something a little better. I found this place online (using this forum's search function) called IGGEE Fashion Seat Covers. The price looked good and their installation videos looked really good so I figured I'd give it a shot for $200. I'll document that here.

#2, soundproof the vehicle during a stereo install. I'll document that further in the next week in this thread, but looking to quiet the cabin prior to installing a new stereo, backup camera, amp, speakers and sub.

#3, add back-up camera - pretty common update. Was the reason for all this work in the first place.

#4, install new speakers in the doors

#5, install 5-channel amp and small Kicker subwoofer behind the driver's side seat

#8, oh, and add a stereo head unit

Below I will outline the process for the install. Hope you enjoy the ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
ok folks... I started the project. In my interior thread I am highlighting the soundproofing of the cab and also the new seat covers. Here I will talk about the sound system and electronics.

Below are some "before" picture of the equipment!

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I bought most of the stuff through Cutchfield, but I did get a few things on Amazon (the JVC amp was half price). I opted for the Crutchfield wire harness set-up for $25. This project is fairly lengthy so I didn't feel like wasting an hour crimping wires.

Below is a "dry-fit" of the Kicker down-facing subwoofer.

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A few "before pictures"

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I started by removing the seats since I will take up the carpet for the insulation and sound deadening. Taking the seats out was easy. 4 bolts and just had to detach the airbag connectors. Interestingly, the 4 bolts all had unique plastic covers - so there wasn't a common way that the bolts were covered. 1 bolt was completely open with no plastic cover. I bolt had a snap-on cover that I removed easily by hand. 1 had a plastic cap that had a clip/level that I used a plastic tool to remove, and 1 bolt had a cover that had a hinge so the cover didn't come off. Very strange!

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I was able to get the dash apart and take the stereo out. I found it very interesting how every clip-connector had a unique type of clip mechanism. Not sure if others felt this way, but I thought it was strange that each clip had a unique fastener.

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Here is a photo of all the plastic, including the seats, etc...

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A word of warning... if you attempt a project like this, cover the gearshifter. I scratched mine up when the center console came down on it while I was trying to disconnect the clips from the stereo. Also, there are a number of random screws that use a torx screw driver. Not sure why torx were used only in these few connections since the rest of the dash uses Philips. The internet states that these fasteners can be "more tightly secured without stripping" so perhaps that is the reason.

I'm planning out the rest of the install now... I want to run a USB to the center console to replace the USB currently there so I can use my thumbdrive. I was hoping that I'd be able to use the existing and have that connect to the new radio, but no go. I guess I'm just going to remove the usb and leave the wire in there. I probably need to pick up a USB extender kit with an install box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Next, I moved the rug out of the way. The rug is only held in by gravity and the remaining plastic parts in the cab, so that came away fairly easily. For some reason I was expecting some of it to be glued down. There are a few places where I didn't want to move too many plastic trim pieces so the rug may still be in place (technically) but I'll work around it.

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Another funny thing I noticed... when I took up the bolts holding the seats to the frame I saw the ground! Yeah, the bolts go through the frame all the way. I'm sure this is completely normal for 100% of the cars out there, but I am not a mechanic and this was my first sets of seats that I've taken out of a car.... so I really didn't expect that. I'll search around on the net for best practice on re-install, but should I add any kind of caulk or barrier when I re-install to avoid water?

Anyhow, here is the back of the cab - lots of great places for sound proofing materials.

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Next step will be removing the panels from the back two doors (they are the small doors as this is a king cab). Then I will insulate/dampen the back wall and the doors. I will install the new speakers and speaker wire at that time. Once I have that done I will move to the floors and the front two doors. Not sure how much soundproofing I will get near the engine wall... I'm looking at options. I've already found a number of really "tinny" sounding metal that should react nicely to the sound deadening treatment.

My dog was very happy to use the back carpet.

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I actually thought it was odd too that the seat bolts each had their own special way to access.
Your photos remind me of when my garage floor looked the same when I started my A/V install LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok friends! I did some soundproofing last night... haha... man this takes TIME.

A few notes about the sound deadening process so far:

  • Takes a lot of time, as I mentioned above
  • Cleaning is key - more dust than you expect on the interior of the truck
  • There are a million random holes in the sheet metal... need to plan out the pieces to not cover the holes, or at least understand which holes are necessary to leave open
  • The metal rollers (or plastic or wood) are super important. At first I didn't understand the need for that, but in order to get good adhesion and to ensure the sound mat is really performing you need to use the rollers to get the mat as flat as possible
  • Using a heat gun or small torch is helpful to make the mat pliable

I used MAT66 for my sound deadener. There are a ton of options online... There is a product line from what appears to be the same exact company with different names (Noico, Mat66, Kilmat, Siless, etc) on Amazon. I watched a ton of videos about different options and it appears that the majority use the same process, but there may be variations of thickness. In any event, I am way over budget already so I didn't want to spend another $400 on sound deadener materials. My plan is to cover the floor, doors and back wall of the cab with Mat66 and then with Noico Red foam (where appropriate). I must say, I've already noticed positive changes in the acoustics with simple knock tests. Check out this quick video I snapped:


A few shots of the process so far:

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I covered up one of the openings in the rear door, I left some of the adhesion backing tape on the mat66 to ensure it didn't stick to the door handle mechanism (which is in that area). There isn't a TON of area on the back door to cover... I added to the sheet metal in the cavities and then I started to wrap around the holes:

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The doors are one thing, but the floor and rear wall is quite another... I feel like a LOT of the noise comes from those two places. So I am going to try to put a decent amount of coverage there. My progress so far:

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And, finally, here is a shot of the speakers from the rear doors. My Infinity speakers are not a huge amount larger or heaver, but man they "feel" so much nicer.

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Hopefully tonight I can get the other rear door insulated and then try to run the new speaker wires to the doors so I can install the speakers. Once that is done I'll tackle more of the floor with the Mat66.

I also need to run the rear camera wire while I have the back plastic covers off since I'm gonna run the wire through either the rear vent or possibly a grommet that I think I found in the rear wall.
 

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ok friends! I did some soundproofing last night... haha... man this takes TIME.

A few notes about the sound deadening process so far:

  • Takes a lot of time, as I mentioned above
  • Cleaning is key - more dust than you expect on the interior of the truck
  • There are a million random holes in the sheet metal... need to plan out the pieces to not cover the holes, or at least understand which holes are necessary to leave open
  • The metal rollers (or plastic or wood) are super important. At first I didn't understand the need for that, but in order to get good adhesion and to ensure the sound mat is really performing you need to use the rollers to get the mat as flat as possible
  • Using a heat gun or small torch is helpful to make the mat pliable

I used MAT66 for my sound deadener. There are a ton of options online... There is a product line from what appears to be the same exact company with different names (Noico, Mat66, Kilmat, Siless, etc) on Amazon. I watched a ton of videos about different options and it appears that the majority use the same process, but there may be variations of thickness. In any event, I am way over budget already so I didn't want to spend another $400 on sound deadener materials. My plan is to cover the floor, doors and back wall of the cab with Mat66 and then with Noico Red foam (where appropriate). I must say, I've already noticed positive changes in the acoustics with simple knock tests. Check out this quick video I snapped:


A few shots of the process so far:

View attachment 335186

View attachment 335187

I covered up one of the openings in the rear door, I left some of the adhesion backing tape on the mat66 to ensure it didn't stick to the door handle mechanism (which is in that area). There isn't a TON of area on the back door to cover... I added to the sheet metal in the cavities and then I started to wrap around the holes:

View attachment 335188

View attachment 335189

The doors are one thing, but the floor and rear wall is quite another... I feel like a LOT of the noise comes from those two places. So I am going to try to put a decent amount of coverage there. My progress so far:

View attachment 335190

And, finally, here is a shot of the speakers from the rear doors. My Infinity speakers are not a huge amount larger or heaver, but man they "feel" so much nicer.

View attachment 335191

View attachment 335192

Hopefully tonight I can get the other rear door insulated and then try to run the new speaker wires to the doors so I can install the speakers. Once that is done I'll tackle more of the floor with the Mat66.

I also need to run the rear camera wire while I have the back plastic covers off since I'm gonna run the wire through either the rear vent or possibly a grommet that I think I found in the rear wall.
I didnt even do floor, just all the doors and the rear wall / C-Pillars down to the subwoofer level, and man, what a huge difference. The doors close now with a nice Mercedes-like "thunk" and outside noise is much lower than before. I never did an actual dB reading but a comfortable listening level now is at least two notches lower ( on the volume knob ) than it used to be, so positive difference for sure, and that's with 4 ohm Morel separates, so lost the "advantage" that Rockford supposedly created by using 2 ohm OE speakers.
I think you'll be quite pleased with your outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Man. I bought my 2018 specifically because of the tan interior. I still like it a lot better than the gray in my 2021. Different strokes, I guess.
My problem with the tan is that they used 4 different tan colors inside! I am going to add some black to create more balance so there isn't so much tan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I didnt even do floor, just all the doors and the rear wall / C-Pillars down to the subwoofer level, and man, what a huge difference. The doors close now with a nice Mercedes-like "thunk" and outside noise is much lower than before. I never did an actual dB reading but a comfortable listening level now is at least two notches lower ( on the volume knob ) than it used to be, so positive difference for sure, and that's with 4 ohm Morel separates, so lost the "advantage" that Rockford supposedly created by using 2 ohm OE speakers.
I think you'll be quite pleased with your outcome.
Yeah, I can already tell that the doors are gonna be much quieter. Based on my research, the key is hitting the THIN flat surfaces since they are the ones that vibrate the most (versus, say a corner or overlapping sheet metal). I was amazed by the rear pillar.. it had a completely hollow PING sound when knocked, and after a little of this material it doesn't make the hollow sound anymore.
 

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Yeah, I can already tell that the doors are gonna be much quieter. Based on my research, the key is hitting the THIN flat surfaces since they are the ones that vibrate the most (versus, say a corner or overlapping sheet metal). I was amazed by the rear pillar.. it had a completely hollow PING sound when knocked, and after a little of this material it doesn't make the hollow sound anymore.
Yes, I found the same to be true. Its like a Caribbean steel drum tympanum. They gong and vibrate in sympathetic resonance to the bass notes most, but really any vibration'll do it. I added extra matt layers on the lower half of the rear wall as I found that to be surprisingly much flatter than the upper area directly under the rear window. I know some recommend that only 25 to 30% coverage is sufficient, IMHO I never subscribed to that and put multiple layers over the whole surface.
My doors have three to four layers, with the heaviest concentrated near the 6.5" driver.
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Anything that adds to the mass of the large flat door panels will help change the resonant frequency to reduce vibration, some materials are just better than others at doing it.

Since we're all in photo sharing mode, I went full coverage on the inner and outer layers of the doors:


...and full coverage on the back wall:


Dynamat Extreme, 1 layer only. I still haven't gotten around to doing the roof panel LOL
Measured improvement/results were a -4.2-db drop @ idle, and a -3.6-db drop @ 60mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nice! I have a feeling the roof is SUPER flimsy but I don't want to mess with the headliner.

Yeah I'm doing inner and outer doors as well. Trying to cover as much as possible within reason. You must have the crew cab model, as my back wall looks very different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Of course... I'm being careful about not covering certain holes but now I'm thinking I can just punch holes in the material if I need a hole that I covered... that might make the process a little easier.
 

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Nice! I have a feeling the roof is SUPER flimsy but I don't want to mess with the headliner.

Yeah I'm doing inner and outer doors as well. Trying to cover as much as possible within reason. You must have the crew cab model, as my back wall looks very different.
You can tell how thin the roof is just by tapping on it from outside.
Yeah, I have a crew cab. slightly different, but the same process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hello friends, time for your update.

I was able to put in 2 hours last night and yet when you see the pictures you will be disappointed! LOL. It takes time, but I'm only doing this once so might as well really do it right. Istarted out last night by adding a few more pieces of the Mat66 to the door and covered the area around the seat belt. I also started to put the foam layer on the inside of the door (over the Mat66). WOW the foam layer really changes the acoustics of that surface! And the foam stuff I have (Noico) is super sticky, it adheres really well.

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Ok, so then I moved to add the Mat66 to the rest of the rear floor. That was satisfying. Not only covering it from a visual perspective, which is nice, but also covering the random textured globs of material on the floor. Anyone know what that stuff is?? Anyhow, here is how it looked:

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This is the material on the floor I'm talking about - any idea what this is?

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Anyhow... I moved on to start the foam application over the Mat66. This stuff is awesome. Easy to apply and I decided to try to apply over must everything and then make holes as needed. The material sticks really well and it just FEELS like it should provide improved sound AND temperature control. We shall see, but I like it so far.

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The directions in the box talked about sealing gaps with aluminum tape, so that is what you see - apparently this stuff is more of an insulator and uses a barrier approach vs the mat66 which absorbs and changes the sound frequency. Ie, the foam works to BLOCK and the mat66 works to ABSORB and DIVERT. So, to block you need to have decent coverage, which include seams. I'm not going crazy with the application, but I tired to seal gaps if I had any. Not 100% done on this wall yet, but it was getting late.

Next up is to Mat66 and insulate the other rear door and then run the speaker wires to the rear speaker locations. THEN I need to run the rear camera wire... at that time I'll finish up the foam on the rear floor and then start moving to the main area. I also want to be mindful of the speaker wire runs... I'm thinking of leaving a small channel in the foam to run the wires from the doors, the RCAs from the head unit, and the amp power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Unexpectedly, I had some free time last night so I again went to work on the truck. I finished putting the Mat66 down on the rear part of the cab and added layers of the foam.

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I worked through and taped all the seams up as well... and once I had that floor done I turned to the rear doors. I finished up the other rear door and was ready to run the initial speaker wire and install the rear 6.5" speakers!! The speakers required an aftermarket bracket but everything fit together pretty easily.

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I ran the speaker wire through the rubber conduit without too much trouble.

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The rubber easily unattached from both sides of the truck (frame and door) and I was able to snake the wire in. I'm hoping the front is the same - with no molex-type connector. Anyway, I ran the wires, cut to length and they are ready to run once I am at the amp stage.

I had MORE time, so I decided to move forward with the passenger side seat area. I moved the AMAZINGLY HUGE Bluetooth controller unit and the vent and put down Mat66 and also the foam. Turned out great. I left a small channel in the foam to run my rear speaker wire.

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If I get some more time tonight I will finish the passenger side floor and then move over to the driver's side. Before I do the front doors I do want to run the wire for the rear camera... still need to think through the best way to run that into the cab. Honestly I haven't' looked at it yet so that might happen during lunch today. I also ordered two extender USB cables so the USB is actually usable from the head unit. Honestly, I don't understand these manufacturers... a 10" USB pigtail is useless, and Sony actually DID include a 3' USB extension cable (only 1, even though there are 2 USB inputs on this stereo) but it has no installation bracket or frame... so I guess they expect it to just hang in the dash? I dunno... but for (ANOTHER) $20 I bought two extenders with installation hardware. Yes, the price continues to climb! I better keep this truck for 20 years.
 
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