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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On the removal process for the water pump using the 2 8M bolts both flanges snapped off. I did use the quarter turn method however I heard a cracking noise by then it was to late. I tried jb welding them back and of course that did not work. I also tried using a pilot bearing tool and reversing the jaws that did not work as well.

Eventually this led to removing the timing cover which I was avoiding however i am thankful that I did I ended up finding that the large tensioner guide on the left was broken at the top as well as well as the secondaries were worn out with one actually being cracked.

With the timing cover off I have since tried :
Three jaw puller/ two jaw puller with slide hammer, bearing separator with two bolts to push it out, removing the the first O-ring with dremel tool, pry bars.

I'm a little stumped on this one and could use advice.:unsure::unsure:

Thanks in advance
 

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Punch/chisel and a BFH? Looks like you can get behind it on the right side/top and have enough room to swing. Just make sure you get the punch/chisel on the pump, since you are replacing it anyways dinging up the old one isn't a concern. If you are able to come in at these angles it lets you get rough 180° apart and tap it out. I've got a brick layer's chisel that is long and flat and works good for stuff like this.
 

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Damn, that's the first time I've seen that! I guess if all else fails, the only other thing to do is remove the rear timing cover from the engine and try to whack it through from the other side without damaging the cover, itself. Depending on what the sealing surface of the rear cover is where the water pump seals sit, you may have to end up replacing the rear cover, anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the help guys!!!!!

I FINALLY GOT IT OUT!!!!!

PRAYER!!

the use of an indexing crow bar.

I soaked it in pb blaster also tried heating it up a bit, but mainly it was the indexing pry bar I worked around the top of it from right to left behind the smaller gears. Really cranking on it then plop!!! Definitely was seized
 

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Is that some sort of adhesive or silicone covering the old one?
What did the surface in the block look like? I hope you got the block surface clean and smooth, you don't want a leak in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does the pump you removed not have the 2 o-rings?
It did have two O rings. When the flanges snap it exposed the oil oring which I ended up using a dremel to remove thinking it would give access to the second oring and allow it to slip out however.... did not notice the chamfer that the first oring rest on until it was removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is that some sort of adhesive or silicone covering the old one?
What did the surface in the block look like? I hope you got the block surface clean and smooth, you don't want a leak in there.
My guess previous owner used some sort of stop leak contaminates can be seen in old radiator which has been replaced also there are other deposits throughout the coolant system. Once I get it rolling again I'm going to fo a flush. The inner portion of the block is clean how ever the mating surfaces look much like the water pump. So I'll be adding that to my clean up tomorrow just glad I finally got this thing out. It's been along 3+ months working on this thing.
 
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