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2004 Nissan Frontier XE King Cab 2.4L RWD Manual 2 Door
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Discussion Starter #1
I need to replace my Carrier Bearing and I've bought the Timken HB6 support bearing, but I am unsure if it fits. I had contacted Timken and they said it doesn't fit, but some websites say it fits. Some guidance would be helpful too. Thank you.
 

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2018 Frontier Crew Cab SV 6cyl Flex Fuel
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I replied in another post but will do so here also. Only use the OEM carrier bearing. The rubber goes bad before the bearing. Also the OEM is not that expensive.
 

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2004 Nissan Frontier XE King Cab 2.4L RWD Manual 2 Door
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Discussion Starter #3
The dealer I had contacted said that it was going to be $200.00, so i would end up saving about $100.00 give or take. Do you happen to know the inner diameter of the support carrier bearing?
 

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The dealer I had contacted said that it was going to be $200.00, so i would end up saving about $100.00 give or take. Do you happen to know the inner diameter of the support carrier bearing?
Summit indicates it’ll fit. RockAuto doesn’t appear to show it as an application, but the National HB6 equivalent is shown. On RA, it only shows the Infiniti J30 and M30 as applications for the Timken unit, but the National unit includes those cars and several more, including 98-04 Frontiers.

I just replaced my carrier bearing the other week. I still have what’s left of the prior unit around for measurements, but while I had my driveshaft apart (from a 98 XE KC 2wd), I also cataloged all the driveshaft components...it’s a 100% Spicer driveshaft. I don’t have my notes handy, but I found all the exact specifications for each component in Spicer catalogs. IIRC the bearing ID is around 1.06”. I had to buy some shims for my setup because the spline end yoke was contacting metal on the carrier bearing’s dust cone, and those shims had 1.125” ID. I can confirm all the dimensions later today.
 

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2004 Nissan Frontier XE King Cab 2.4L RWD Manual 2 Door
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Discussion Starter #6
Summit indicates it’ll fit. RockAuto doesn’t appear to show it as an application, but the National HB6 equivalent is shown. On RA, it only shows the Infiniti J30 and M30 as applications for the Timken unit, but the National unit includes those cars and several more, including 98-04 Frontiers.

I just replaced my carrier bearing the other week. I still have what’s left of the prior unit around for measurements, but while I had my driveshaft apart (from a 98 XE KC 2wd), I also cataloged all the driveshaft components...it’s a 100% Spicer driveshaft. I don’t have my notes handy, but I found all the exact specifications for each component in Spicer catalogs. IIRC the bearing ID is around 1.06”. I had to buy some shims for my setup because the spline end yoke was contacting metal on the carrier bearing’s dust cone, and those shims had 1.125” ID. I can confirm all the dimensions later today.
Thank you very much for that information, I’m going to replace the u-joints as well and I got some serviceable MOOG 369. I also had problems getting those because customer service kept telling me my truck only had one u joint, but I checked and I knew it had 3. Do you think I should switch and get spicer u joints?
 

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Thank you very much for that information, I’m going to replace the u-joints as well and I got some serviceable MOOG 369. I also had problems getting those because customer service kept telling me my truck only had one u joint, but I checked and I knew it had 3. Do you think I should switch and get spicer u joints?
Sorry, I neglected to follow up on this. Let me know if you still need any dimensions regarding the bearing or anything else. And if you think you need might need a shim (the FSM suggests one should have been there, but I definitely didn't have it), PM an address and I'll send one.

As for the u-joints, if you have a 2-piece driveshaft, then you have 3 u-joints and they should all be the same. A 1-joint driveshaft would be interesting to see...it wouldn't be a very good driveshaft, I can tell you that much.

Nissan used to be screwy with u-joints in the past because they didn't sell them separately, nor the carrier bearing. They sold the entire driveshaft assembly for an outrageous amount (you can actually buy new Dorman replacements for a decent price now, FYI). So, the aftermarket tends to have conflicting data about what fits and doesn't fit because it ultimately requires them to tear down a vehicle or part to confirm fitment. That's likely why application references for these sorts of parts are so inconsistent. Normally when I need a part, I either match it specifically to a Nissan p/n I've looked up (try www.nissanpartsdeal.com; enter your VIN) because RockAuto does a great job of listing OE p/ns for many parts, or I look for vehicle overlap on a few parts, with main logic being that if two parts fit the same vehicle, then both parts must fit all vehicles specified for either part. Nissan also used to mix up driveshaft configurations on various trucks depending on wheel base, drive, and transmission, so one-size does not fit all (all spec data can be found in FSMs).

As for the Moog 369...main thing you must check on your specific driveshaft is whether it has inside or outside rings. I see that the 369 has outside rings, which suggests it's part of the Spicer 1310 series, so the equivalent joint is Dana 5153X (or any of its economy/greaseable/non-greasable/heavy-duty variants). If you have inside snap rings, it's a Nissan-only sizing (I have them on my Pathfinder), but there are plenty of replacement options nonetheless. For a 2004 Frontier 2.4L, RockAuto only shows outside-clip joints, so that's a good sign all of those options interchange.

I'm pretty cheap when it comes to this stuff, so I installed GMB 2100153 greaseable units at <$5/ea, though two of the units I received were clearly incorrect (an incorrect label had been applied over the original p/n on the box), but RA resolved the problem pretty quickly on their dime. Normally I prefer to have sealed units, since greasable ones tend to just sling grease all over the truck if you put a hair too much in, and sometimes the zerks aren't even accessible once installed...but I usually defer to wallet-impact specifications when making a decision. The GMB seemed to install as expected (hint: I hate working on driveshafts), but my driveshaft was disassembled both for maintenance and to have the 2nd shaft shortened for an axle swap, so I only repaired the 1st shaft with u-joint and carrier bearing, and had the shop complete and balance the full assembly.

If you plan to do the work yourself, I recommend some of the u-joint pullers available on Amazon for around $50-$60. I have a floor press that I use, but it usually just complicates the job. The FSM route is to just bash it out. Either way, spray some penetrating oil on the joints before going into it and it'll help.
 

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2004 Nissan Frontier XE King Cab 2.4L RWD Manual 2 Door
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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry, I neglected to follow up on this. Let me know if you still need any dimensions regarding the bearing or anything else. And if you think you need might need a shim (the FSM suggests one should have been there, but I definitely didn't have it), PM an address and I'll send one.

As for the u-joints, if you have a 2-piece driveshaft, then you have 3 u-joints and they should all be the same. A 1-joint driveshaft would be interesting to see...it wouldn't be a very good driveshaft, I can tell you that much.

Nissan used to be screwy with u-joints in the past because they didn't sell them separately, nor the carrier bearing. They sold the entire driveshaft assembly for an outrageous amount (you can actually buy new Dorman replacements for a decent price now, FYI). So, the aftermarket tends to have conflicting data about what fits and doesn't fit because it ultimately requires them to tear down a vehicle or part to confirm fitment. That's likely why application references for these sorts of parts are so inconsistent. Normally when I need a part, I either match it specifically to a Nissan p/n I've looked up (try www.nissanpartsdeal.com; enter your VIN) because RockAuto does a great job of listing OE p/ns for many parts, or I look for vehicle overlap on a few parts, with main logic being that if two parts fit the same vehicle, then both parts must fit all vehicles specified for either part. Nissan also used to mix up driveshaft configurations on various trucks depending on wheel base, drive, and transmission, so one-size does not fit all (all spec data can be found in FSMs).

As for the Moog 369...main thing you must check on your specific driveshaft is whether it has inside or outside rings. I see that the 369 has outside rings, which suggests it's part of the Spicer 1310 series, so the equivalent joint is Dana 5153X (or any of its economy/greaseable/non-greasable/heavy-duty variants). If you have inside snap rings, it's a Nissan-only sizing (I have them on my Pathfinder), but there are plenty of replacement options nonetheless. For a 2004 Frontier 2.4L, RockAuto only shows outside-clip joints, so that's a good sign all of those options interchange.

I'm pretty cheap when it comes to this stuff, so I installed GMB 2100153 greaseable units at <$5/ea, though two of the units I received were clearly incorrect (an incorrect label had been applied over the original p/n on the box), but RA resolved the problem pretty quickly on their dime. Normally I prefer to have sealed units, since greasable ones tend to just sling grease all over the truck if you put a hair too much in, and sometimes the zerks aren't even accessible once installed...but I usually defer to wallet-impact specifications when making a decision. The GMB seemed to install as expected (hint: I hate working on driveshafts), but my driveshaft was disassembled both for maintenance and to have the 2nd shaft shortened for an axle swap, so I only repaired the 1st shaft with u-joint and carrier bearing, and had the shop complete and balance the full assembly.

If you plan to do the work yourself, I recommend some of the u-joint pullers available on Amazon for around $50-$60. I have a floor press that I use, but it usually just complicates the job. The FSM route is to just bash it out. Either way, spray some penetrating oil on the joints before going into it and it'll help.
Now it all makes sense of why some websites say certain parts fit while others say that they will not fit. Thank you for the advice to confirm that certain parts will fit. I will look into buying the driveshaft center support carrier bearing this week now. Thank you.
 

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Now it all makes sense of why some websites say certain parts fit while others say that they will not fit. Thank you for the advice to confirm that certain parts will fit. I will look into buying the driveshaft center support carrier bearing this week now. Thank you.
No problem!

FWIW, the carrier bearing for your truck is p/n 37520-3S525, superseded by 37521-S3825. The National HB6 bearing at RockAuto I mentioned does list the newer p/n, but it's also a $70(!) option. I used the Westar DS8474 one ($21) which seemed fine, though it lacked "Front" indicators (I compared bearing depth with the previous unit), included a seemingly worthless foam ring (I kept the denser foam ring from my previous unit), and did not include a new yoke nut, washer, or shim. But, $50 is $50.
 

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2004 Nissan Frontier XE King Cab 2.4L RWD Manual 2 Door
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Discussion Starter #10
No problem!

FWIW, the carrier bearing for your truck is p/n 37520-3S525, superseded by 37521-S3825. The National HB6 bearing at RockAuto I mentioned does list the newer p/n, but it's also a $70(!) option. I used the Westar DS8474 one ($21) which seemed fine, though it lacked "Front" indicators (I compared bearing depth with the previous unit), included a seemingly worthless foam ring (I kept the denser foam ring from my previous unit), and did not include a new yoke nut, washer, or shim. But, $50 is $50.
That is a little high, but better than what the dealership was trying to charge me $150 w/Tax.
 

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That is a little high, but better than what the dealership was trying to charge me $150 w/Tax.
Yeah, those OE units aren't cheap, and the quality may not be any better than an aftermarket unit. Still, I understand why some prefer to stick with OE units or premium aftermarket ones. Notably, for those who do prefer OE parts, I can recommend nissanpartsdeal.com and courtesyparts.com (I think "nis10" still works for a discount). NPD has it for $140 before tax and shipping. A good compromise would be the Timken or National units. Since I rarely drive my trucks and do my own repair work, though, I do fine with budget parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, those OE units aren't cheap, and the quality may not be any better than an aftermarket unit. Still, I understand why some prefer to stick with OE units or premium aftermarket ones. Notably, for those who do prefer OE parts, I can recommend nissanpartsdeal.com and courtesyparts.com (I think "nis10" still works for a discount). NPD has it for $140 before tax and shipping. A good compromise would be the Timken or National units. Since I rarely drive my trucks and do my own repair work, though, I do fine with budget parts.
I wanted to go with the Timken HB6, but as I said they said it wouldn’t fit my truck.
 

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I wanted to go with the Timken HB6, but as I said they said it wouldn’t fit my truck.
I'd still trust it to fit. In fact, on RockAuto check out the "Part Number Search" function there. If you key in "HB6" and set the Parts Group to "Drivetrain", both the National and Timken versions show up. Even though the latter only shows the two Infiniti applications, you'll see it also includes the same 37521-S3825 p/n reference as the National unit...but costs another $7 more.

Aftermarket parts, by and large, are produced by relatively few manufacturers, and private-label boxes are very common. Same part, different boxes. (The scene from Tommy Boy just flashed in my head...dumping in a box, marking it guaranteed, "I've got the time." Classic!) I bought GMB and private-label GMB u-joints the other week...literally just a different box. I largely refer to the pics RA posts, too, as they tend to be very accurate depictions of the actual product. In this case, the primary pics for both of those HB6's are identical, so a safe presumption (with the mention of the OE p/n) is that they're identical units.

Of course, if your parts retailer says a part doesn't fit, you may "need" to heed their warning if it impacts your ability to return or warranty the item for any reason. These guys don't validate fitment, and despite any logic that can be reasonably applied, if you put a part on a vehicle that they say is not for that application, they'll likely nail you for it given the chance. So if you have concerns with that, forego the Timken one anyway...treat yourself to lunch with the price difference.
 

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Exfront, have you tried talking to the parts guys at rockauto, their a wealth of knowledge when it comes to issues like these and they know what their talking about as they have probably had a dozen calls on the same subject.
 
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