Nissan Frontier Forum banner

41 - 60 of 60 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
I'm close to 105K on this, figured it was time to replace the spark plugs. Small town, local O'Reilly had only 2 of NGK PFR5G 11 in stock, so ordered those. I figure that this will be the only time I ever need to change the plugs, so decided to go for same NGK even though are $12 each. Another reason is this 2004 King Cab seems to have less highway/uphill power than my same-equipped 1998 regular cab with 240K; both are 4-cylinder, 5-speed, 2 WD. I know that the King Cab weighs more and I have Mrs. Cusser with me in that, but it's more of a difference than that. The fuel filter and the air cleaner on the 2004 are relatively new; so I'm open to any suggestions as to correct the power difference.

I also bought and installed a cabin air filter into the space pictured in an earlier post, this never had one before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,157 Posts
I usually get those plugs from my local Advance Auto Parts store. I buy them online with a discount code and pick them up at the store and it costs me only $9.99 per plug plus tax. Their even cheaper at Rockauto, but then you have shipping costs...but, no tax.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
I got and installed the NGK plugs. I also checked the ignition timing as per service manual, even the thing with unplugging the throttle position sender harness, and it was right at 20* BTDC as it should be.

I did this because my 2004 King Cab (105K) seems to have less power than my same-equipped 1998 regular cab with 240K (both 4-cylinder, 5-speed, 2WD). I realize that the King Cab weighs like 300 lbs more, and I also typically have a passenger along, but the difference seems more than that weight difference could explain. Maybe the difference is due to different electronics over the 6 years. Does anyone have have any ideas what I could do to the 2004 to attain equivalent power (other than shoving Mrs. Cusser out) ??? Or any explanations?? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
2004 Nissan Frontier XE KC KA24DE
Joined
·
2,183 Posts
Does anyone have have any ideas what I could do to the 2004 to attain equivalent power (other than shoving Mrs. Cusser out) ??? Or any explanations?? Thanks.
I don't know if the reply by @smj999smj to the "cold air intake" thread would apply to the 2004 but it might. I took a screen shot to give it a try but haven't got around to doing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
D'oh !!! Noticed the water pump seeping a little out of its weep hole. Looks like a task for tomorrow, lifetime warranty pump in stock in small town, good, because this will be a warranty repair (100 miles away from Phoenix).
 
  • Like
Reactions: shift_RUSH

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
OK, buttoned this all up, topped off with coolant. Thermostat install is pain in the butt being horizontal, even with jacking up the front of truck. 104.5K miles, no leaks so far; hosed off the engine, will take for a ride tomorrow and install under-engine guard if no leaks.

Funny, the Permatex RTV says to wait an hour before torquing, and to wait 24 hours before adding coolant. Yeah, like how many professional mechanics drag such job over 2 days !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
smj999smj - do you have flat rate hours for a water pump and thermostat R&R on a 2.4 engine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
No leaks so far, GOOD !!!

Still wonder if it's just a weight issue that my 1998 regular cab seems to have more power than my 2004 King Cab, or if it's just that the extra weight (about 500 lbs, including a passenger where regular cab is driver only) is a reason. Or maybe the transmission gearing changed over those years? Both are 2.4 engine, 5-speed, 2WD.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,157 Posts
smj999smj - do you have flat rate hours for a water pump and thermostat R&R on a 2.4 engine?
No, I don't. With the thermostat, I would expect it to be around 2.0 hours, flat rate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Thanks. Toughest part is scraping off old gaskets and RTV !!! At least no leaks observed.

Any comments from anyone on the question below?

Still wonder if it's just a weight issue that my 1998 regular cab seems to have more power than my 2004 King Cab, or if it's just that the extra weight (about 500 lbs, including a passenger where regular cab is driver only) is a reason. Or maybe the transmission gearing or differential gearing changed over those years? Both are 2.4 engine, 5-speed, 2WD.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,869 Posts
Still wonder if it's just a weight issue that my 1998 regular cab seems to have more power than my 2004 King Cab, or if it's just that the extra weight (about 500 lbs, including a passenger where regular cab is driver only) is a reason. Or maybe the transmission gearing changed over those years? Both are 2.4 engine, 5-speed, 2WD.
W/o digging for data, perhaps there's a rear diff axle ratio difference between the two?
And, 500 lbs is very noticeable...even in my '15 6-sp 4.0 V6.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
And, 500 lbs is very noticeable...even in my '15 6-sp 4.0 V6.
Thanks, Shift. Likely that is the primary reason, the additional weight. And shifting from 5th down to 4th on Interstate uphills every 25 minutes is not a big deal as long as I remember to shut off the aftermarket cruise control (or tap the brake pedal) - since I don't have a clutch switch for this on my Frontier).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
Could you not put a switch on your cluch pedal to turn off you cruise? Basicaly tapping into the brake signal on the cruise control harness and sending a signal that is linked to the cluch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Could you not put a switch on your cluch pedal to turn off you cruise? Basicaly tapping into the brake signal on the cruise control harness and sending a signal that is linked to the cluch?
Yes, I could add a clutch switch. The CC manufacturer Rostra even lists a Clutch Disengagement Switch
Part Number: 250-4206, sells for about $40-$45.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Sept. 2018 the AC compressor on my 2004 Frontier seized up about 100 miles into our vacation.

Oct. 2018 I replaced the compressor, condenser, receiver-drier, flushed the high pressure lines, all detailed in post #28. I used brand-new parts from RockAuto, new UAC CO10607C compressor.

Vent temperatures have been fine. Only concern was that on first use of AC each day (first time I pressed the AC on-off switch each day), there was a metallic grind-type noise the first half-second. When cycling, or turning on the AC switch on subsequent trips that day, no noise at all, silent operation. I even tried with engine cold first thing in the morning to turn the ac compressor drive plate by hand, turned readily, and smoothly; then I started up and when I pressed in the AC switch, got the same noise for the half second. Ambient temperature a first start of the day did not seem to affect this at all.

Jump to May 2020. On this Frontier I was still on the factory AC idler pulley at 105K miles, so I bought a new idler for $42 to swap that in (I'd had to replace same part on my 1998 Frontier previously when its idler seized up). So I installed the idler, and the factory one had just a twinkling of vibration when I spun it by hand. Anyway, after that, and with AC belt a little looser, I started it up; and when I pushed in the AC button, the noise appeared again for its usual half-second.

So next day, I decided that I wanted to hear the noise while being under the hood. Since my AC compressor won't engage unless the engine is running (or I jump its wire), I pulled the "AC compressor" fuse just rearward of the battery. I started the engine, turned AC on (switch "in"), and went up to the front. I inserted the AC compressor fuse and the compressor engaged BUT WITHOUT THE NOISE. So I pulled the fuse again and cleaned up its contact arms/blades, even though they looked OK, and re-inserted the fuse.

I fully realize that I'll jinx myself my writing this, but in two subsequent "first AC switch on of the day" situations, the noise has not occurred.

I'm open to any explanations, as to why somewhat-intermittent contact of the fuse blades would cause such a noise, and only on the first start up of the day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
I'm open to any explanations, as to why somewhat-intermittent contact of the fuse blades would cause such a noise, and only on the first start up of the day.
Still operating silently. My theory is that oxidation on the AC compressor fuse blades prevented full amps from getting to the compressor clutch, and cleaning off the fuse blades enabled full amps.
 

·
Registered
2004 Nissan Frontier XE KC KA24DE
Joined
·
2,183 Posts
Seems like the typical "can't duplicate the noise" when people take their vehicle to be serviced type of event.

But on a serious note, maybe it's just because it's getting the 12 volts cleanly now instead of struggling. Maybe the flow of current improved after heating up the contacts points on the fuse legs after the 1st start of the day.

I remember mentioning an intermittent issue my son had with his radio awhile back but I don't recall which thread it was in.
But his radio finally didn't work at all and all fuses were good. I pulled his radio fuse and it was caked, I cleaned the legs and Voila!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
But on a serious note, maybe it's just because it's getting the 12 volts cleanly now instead of struggling. Maybe the flow of current improved after heating up the contacts points on the fuse legs after the 1st start of the day.
Yep, damn sure something was a tad "off" at that fuse.

In hindsight, reminds me about 1981 of my girlfriend's 1975 Chevy Luv. That would run great, but suddenly - about 0.1% of the time - would stall out on the road like it was out of gasoline. Obviously, both a shop and myself could not figure this out while it was operating fine. Then one day, wouldn't run, still at the house; I noticed that something different with the charging warning light, looked it up and found that its fuel pump relay was on the same circuit. I was planning to purchase a brand-new fuel pump relay as that wasn't too expensive, and disconnected its harness under the dash. Just plugging in that harness again fixed the issue permanently, so stumbled upon that fix too !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,963 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
2004 Frontier AC clutch still OK, calling this "fixed".


I always used to have to twist the fuses in my karmann ghia. We live close to the coast so they would get a little corrosion and twisting them cleaned it up
Yes. When I resurrected my 1970 VW in 2016-2017 after it had sat "retired" next to my house, I cleaned all the fuse terminals in it with a small wire wheel on my Dremel tool. I also cleaned up all the male/female spade terminals too, as a matter of course.
 
41 - 60 of 60 Posts
Top