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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am not only new here, but I am quite ignorant about the inner workings of my 2001 Frontier and of automotive mechanics in general. I almost always pay a service technician to take care of issues, even minor ones. I recognize that I pay a premium for my ignorance; I only want my vehicle to work so that I can get on with my life. However, my current issue is requiring me to do a great deal of research and solicit multiple opinions.

Here is a description of each occurrence of the issue, and the assessments of professionals who have diagnosed it:

1. First incident: Approximately three weeks ago, I unlocked my Frontier remotely as normal. I had no indication that anything was wrong as I opened the vehicle and inserted the key. When I turned the key to start the engine all power suddenly went dead, and the engine didn't even try to start. I turned the key back, and then a few seconds later retried to start the engine. It started as normal. There was no indication that anything had gone wrong; even the clock on the radio hadn't reset.

2. Second incident: About two weeks ago, the engine again failed to start exactly as I described above. I was able to remotely unlock the door, and the dome light came on - but upon turning the key, all power went dead. Once again I turned the key back, waited a few seconds, and retried. The truck started as normal.

I then backed out of my parking space, drove through the parking lot, and turned onto my street. Then other symptoms occurred: the "ABS" light came on, the "O/D Off" light start flashing, and the truck acted as if I were in Neutral. Depressing the accelerator caused the engine to rev, but didn't accelerate the vehicle. These symptoms lasted for about five seconds, and then mysteriously vanished. At that point I resolved to have the vehicle serviced.

3. Third incident: The service station was closed at the time of the second incident, however, and I had to pick up my wife from work. We had to make a stop on the way home. Upon parking and exiting the vehicle, I attempted to lock the doors remotely - and nothing happened. All power was dead, and the truck wouldn't start exactly as I've described previously. We tried periodically over the next fifteen minutes or so before finally calling for a tow truck. Another thirty minutes and several retries later, the tow truck finally arrived.

We had to back my vehicle out of the parking garage in order to load it onto the tow truck; my wife inserted the key, turned it to the "ACC" position, shifted into Neutral, and depressed the brake pedal. We had to wait for another car to pass before we could back out, and after about ten to fifteen seconds of holding the brake pedal, power suddenly came back on. She was then able to start the truck as normal. Again, the clock hadn't reset and there were no other problems. We drove the truck to the service station ourselves.

4. First professional assessment: We left the truck overnight at the service station closest to our home. After twenty-four hours of the truck being in their care, they were unable to duplicate the issue. They confirmed that there was no problem with the battery, and they could not find any evidence of an electrical problem. Their best educated guess was that there was a short in the ignition, and that replacing the ignition might resolve the problem. They did emphasize that they couldn't be sure, however. Hoping that they were right, I authorized them to replace the ignition.

5. Third incident: Earlier this week, on Tuesday night, the truck failed to start again. There was again no indication that anything was wrong up until the time I turned the key to "START." All power suddenly went dead again. This time it took ten to fifteen minutes of periodically attempting to start the truck before it finally started as normal.

6. Second professional assessment: I took the truck to a local dealership for service the following day (Wednesday afternoon). I described the entire issue exactly as I've described it here, and the representative there took very detailed notes. Convinced that they would give it their best effort, I agreed to leave it with them for diagnostics. The representative said that he would get back with me the next day.

I received a callback from him this afternoon, and he let me speak directly with the tech who had been diagnosing the issue. They, too, have been unable to duplicate the problem. However, the tech is pretty sure that the issue lies with the PNP switch shifting out of position. He said that this would explain not only the truck failing to start, but also the symptoms I experienced while driving during the second incident (where the truck acted as if it were in Neutral). He also said that the truck was having difficulty shifting from first to second gear (my wife had noticed a slight problem with such), and that this was also consistent with a fault in the PNP switch.

If I recall my conversation with him correctly, he was leaning toward recommending that the PNP switch be replaced. Doing so, however, would be no small feat: it would require replacing the valve body, and because of the age/mileage of the truck doing that would not be feasible without replacing the entire transmission assembly. This would be a repair costing in excess of $2,000.

I want to emphasize that I may not correctly recall his explanation for why the PNP switch couldn't be replaced without replacing the entire transmission, but he and the service rep were definitely implying that the transmission replacement would be necessary. They were sensitive to the cost and didn't yet want to recommend the repair without being able to duplicate the issue, so they asked to keep the truck for another night to continue diagnostics. I agreed to let them keep the truck for further diagnostics.

So tomorrow I may receive a recommendation from them for a transmission replacement, regardless of whether they can duplicate the issue. Faced with the likelihood of such a costly repair and simultaneously fighting my own ignorance, I'm asking for help:

1. Do you agree with the second diagnosis, that of the PNP switch being at fault?
2. What additional work on the transmission needs to be done in order to repair/replace the PNP switch?
3. If you were incapable of doing any diagnostics or repairs on the vehicle yourself (as I am), how would you proceed from here?

Thanks for reading, and thank you in advance for your feedback.


heihojin
 

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Sounds to me like you have a loose battery and/or alternator connection or most likely a bad ground connection.

I would second Chainsaw's comment. When I first got my 2001 CC the battery went dead about a month after having it. I bought a new battery as well as new battery terminal clamps, the old one's were corroded. The new clamps weren't exactly like the old ones, just aftermarket style. I had to kind of jerry-rig the ground side to get it to work right. A few weeks after changing the battery I kind of had the same problem you did, the truck wouldn't start right off, and I think once I got the airbag and seat belt and ABS warnings. I did a little poking around and found that my new ground connection wasn't really that tight as well as some corrosion had started to form. I crimped the connection over again and cleaned the corrosion and haven't have a problem since. So, before dumping a bunch of money I would check your battery connections really well, clean them and see if that helps. Also, it might be helpful to check the health of your battery. How long has it been in the truck? Hopefully you'll find a low cost solution. Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you both for replying. As an update, I received a voice-mail message from the dealership yesterday indicating that after 48 hours of being in their care, they are still unable to duplicate the problem. They are not recommending any particular repair until they can.

The battery is probably the fourth battery I've had in the truck, and was installed 9-12 months ago. Neither of the two service centers have found any problems with the battery, and the first one explicitly told me that the battery was perfectly fine. I suppose it is possible that both of them have overlooked something, but I am willing to accept their words that they have checked the battery and its connections.

I will talk with the tech at the second center tomorrow, and confirm with him that he has checked all possible electrical connections. I think his diagnosis of a faulty PNP switch is at least plausible, and I'd be willing to replace it immediately if it didn't also require a transmission replacement. Is there any reason why replacing the PNP switch should also entail replacing the transmission?
 

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Whether correct or not, it is safest to assume that dealerships are never "sensitive to cost" in a way that is beneficial to the customer. Be wary of anyone who tells you that you have to replace something that is working properly, regardless of how reasonable the justification may sound.

Did they test the PNP switch with a multimeter? The factory service manual specifies a series of voltage and continuity checks to see if the PNP switch and its associated hardware are working properly.

Testing a battery is not the same thing as testing its connections. To test a battery, a technician must determine whether it is within specifications for voltage and amperage under different load conditions (and, if the battery is not sealed, he/she should also examine the specific gravity of the electrolyte). To test the connections, he/she must determine whether there is any significant resistance between the negative terminal clamp and ground points on the body/engine/electrical components, and do the same between the positive terminal clamp and hot connections on electrical components. Point being, it's possible that a technician tested your battery without checking for continuity and low resistance within its connections.

I'll be honest: If I were you, I would find a different dealership and see what they suggest. PNP switches are replaceable (or at least, the engineers at Nissan decided to say so in the FSM). Further, they can be tested and adjusted, BOTH of which should be done before any technician so much as THINKS of asking you to pay him to replace a trouble-free transmission.

Good luck. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, MITOK. Those specifics should definitely help.

I am wary of the dealership recommending such an expensive repair, even if their diagnosis is correct. I suspect that the only reason they are not yet officially recommending the repair is because they have not been able to duplicate the problem, and hence are most sensitive to issues of liability.

Do you also know where I can download a copy of the FSM for my Frontier? My Google search returned a plethora of links to suspicious Web sites, and a few links that were no longer good.
 

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you can buy the fsm for nissan. get a $20 day subscription and save the pdfs. make sure you get them all otherwise its another $20.
My first suspicion is a weak battery or a poor battery connection. remember, you have two ends on the battery cable.
Next suspciion would be to have AZ scan for codes. the only codes that will flash a CEL is emissions related.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks to everyone who responded.

For those who might be curious to know, the dealership cut me a break after being unable to duplicate the problem and declined to charge me for diagnostics. I then found an automotive electrical specialist to examine the vehicle. They, too, were unable to find any problems with the battery or its connections - making them the third service center to do so.

Like the first shop, they hypothesized that the problem lay in the ignition system. They also found that the ignition distributor was faulty and disrupting the engine timing. Since it was possible that the faulty distributor was also causing an intermittent short, they recommended replacing it. They also recommended replacing the ignition relay, since the first shop had not replaced it when the ignition switch was replaced.

So now that the ignition distributor, relay, and switch have all been replaced, all that remains is to wait and see if the problem recurs. Thanks again for the replies; I was pretty unsure about replacing the transmission on just the dealer's recommendation, and your advice helped ensure that I didn't. :)
 

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Wish I had seen this a few years ago because this still happens to this day. This is identical to my problem and also happens when turning on my headlights. Tends to be during warmer or summer days. Was happening at all during the winter that I can recall. Anyone got info on the results or outcome here?

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/intermittent-electrical-problem-82956/
 
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