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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first post on here besides intro post. Im sure someones already done this but im gonna do it again just in case. Just got my 2" leveling kit with the alignment cam and bolt set. Wont be putting it on until tomorrow afternoon even tho I wanna do it NOW! Haha anyway,I have a 2015 Pro 4X. Will show before,during, and after pics incase anyone wants to see exactly what Im doing. Any advice/suggestions greatly appreciated.


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I will be following this thread as I want to do this eventually as well. How much did it cost?
 

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Any pics of before and after?


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I did this just about 2 months ago. Had to make several trips to the hardware store to pick up a few extra tools once I got to the cam bolts.... Deeper 20,21, and 22mm sockets, slimline ratcheting wrenches and so forth. Make sure you have the proper tap and die for the new bump stops and it will go VERY smoothly. This is honestly one of the best "learning" projects I could think of for these trucks, as far as anyone who is new to mechanically working on vehicles. I took some pictures of my stuff during my install, but do not have the camera here at work with me. Hope yours goes well!

The truck looks MUCH better and honestly, the 2" lift in the front and 1.5 blocks in the rear is the way these trucks should come from the factory, at least any of the 4x4 variants IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did this just about 2 months ago. Had to make several trips to the hardware store to pick up a few extra tools once I got to the cam bolts.... Deeper 20,21, and 22mm sockets, slimline ratcheting wrenches and so forth. Make sure you have the proper tap and die for the new bump stops and it will go VERY smoothly. This is honestly one of the best "learning" projects I could think of for these trucks, as far as anyone who is new to mechanically working on vehicles. I took some pictures of my stuff during my install, but do not have the camera here at work with me. Hope yours goes well!

The truck looks MUCH better and honestly, the 2" lift in the front and 1.5 blocks in the rear is the way these trucks should come from the factory, at least any of the 4x4 variants IMHO.
For sure,how long did it take you to do the front leveling?id like to see the pics whenever you get a chance. And just outta curiousity,why would i need the tap and die?

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Heres the before.



So i started by removing the pin thats going thru the upper ball joint...just bend the back side straight and pull. Unscrew the nut and bang on the,correct me if im wrong, but bang on the spindle a few times and itll come right off. Then,unscrew the 3 nuts that screw to the top of the shocks(the 3 silver nuts seen in the picture behind the ball joint)



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To be continued...

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Discussion Starter #9
Picking up where i left off,i unscrewed the nut from the bottom of the shock and hammered it out. Unfortunately,the sway bar was in the way so i couldnt pull it out. So i unscrewed the sway bar nut from the joint that connects the sway bar to the back of the spindle. I DID loosen the 2 nuts connecting the sway bar to the chasis but im not sure if that completely necessary,just telling you guys what i did. So after i pulled the shock out,i installed the 2" plate to the top of the shock and reinstalled it. So pretty much just do everything i said in reverse. I finished kinda late and was too dark to take pics but will do first thing tomorrow morning. And it helps if you have someone to help,just fyi. Feel free to ask any questions in case i left anything out

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Unscrew the nut and bang on the,correct me if im wrong, but bang on the spindle a few times and itll come right off.
That's right - there's actually a round "nub" on the sides of the spindle arm that you can tap with a hammer until it just drops out of the UCA. Whatever you do, don't bang on the bottom of the spindle bolt itself - you could potentially mess up the threads on the UCA spindle bolt, and when it's time to reassemble the UCA spindle nut won't thread back on (not good!)
 

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That's right - there's actually a round "nub" on the sides of the spindle arm that you can tap with a hammer until it just drops out of the UCA. Whatever you do, don't bang on the bottom of the spindle bolt itself - you could potentially mess up the threads on the UCA spindle bolt, and when it's time to reassemble the UCA spindle nut won't thread back on (not good!)
Yeah thanks for pointing that out. Thats exactly where i hit and after a few good ones,it just fell right out.

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