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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got the lift on today, put front camber bolts in! rears Would not come out no matter how much i beat them!
Ended up ordering new lower control arms, instead of bushings, Hella cheap for the whole darn arm with new stuff! Gotta cut the bolts anyway ! Well parked for now!

Before, just front, then both ends!
 

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Got the lift on today, put front camber bolts in! rears Would not come out no matter how much i beat them!
Ended up ordering new lower control arms, instead of bushings, Hella cheap for the whole darn arm with new stuff! Gotta cut the bolts anyway ! Well parked for now!

Before, just front, then both ends!
Looks good did you have your alignment checked afterwards mine was within specs an NTB does the check for free. But if you need it yeah doing the whole arm is in my eyes a lot better choice plus you get a grease able ball-joint to boot and forget about that god awful smell of burning them out an replacing or trying to press out the sleeve been there done that the smell $u<ks
I'm in the middle of doing my lca's as I type this as well did the pass yesterday and doing driver today I just can't move as fast as others but had same thing after breaking them loose the rears were just spinning in bushing but mine sat in saltwater lol.
When I looked I only had a few new bi-metal blades left and didn't want to have to stop in middle so I went to pick up some I never saw these b4 but Milwaukee has another brand called Diablo their red in color and colbalt tipped the depot had them in a 2 pack special for $10 so I said wtf I'll try them my god they cut through that bolt like butter if you need a blade you might wanna give it a try it really made mince meat of of that bolt an sleeve also you can do it without chopping off the arm like I've seen in postings either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool thanks for the blade info!
I was gonna use a cut off wheel on the 4” Milwaukee grinder, but i like the idea of no sparks though!
You have a picture of the blades?

(I hope A1 auto LCA’s are decent quality)
I’m hoping i can leave the top arm strut etc. together and just remove the lower arm with out taking everything back apart???? Wishful Thinking???
 

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Sorry was out doing drivers after I wrote and didn't see you post again but that's them I am really impressed how fast they worked I just sprayed some some cheap wd-40 type type oil on em while I was cutting that I got at Atwoods didn't want to wast pbblaster on that
 

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That will work I only brought the 6" as you can only fit about 2" of blade in there I did try cutting from underneath but was worried about hitting the mount. I will say it did loose a little steam after the 3rd I might of pushed too hard doing the passenger making the blade die faster so I just changed it after starting the 4th one I just wanted to get er done but I did the 3cuts on one blade if I just took my time it would've done the 4
 

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Looks good, you getting any coil bucket contact?

I had to cut my lower control arms out too. It's starting to look like guys that are lifting a truck with a few years on the clock should plan on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got my control arms today! I can’t believe the quality, so well for 108 bucks for the pair! I just hope they fit? And I also hope I can get the old control arms off without tearing the whole front end apart again? Leave everything attached on top I hope it’s not wishful thinking??
 

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Bandito you'll have no problem yeah most of it
You need to pop the upper ball joint, tie rod, brakes an just unhook abs from mounting clips so you can maneuver the spindle enough to be able to dislodge the lca ball joint from the spindle after pounding the hell out of it with your pickle an you'll need to do that to be able to tie up the cv axle if yours is a 4 don't worry you can push axle in to clear hub just don't let it come out there is a tiny seal on shaft that will leak differential fluid into your cv boot if nicked
An remember to anti seize n torque it all so next time it'll come apart a lot easier
I found these great write ups a inspiration an the 1 from X funny as hell lol
There was another one that I came across nicely wrote up but I didn't save it but it was just excerpts of these an others Thanks to Frontier4x glamisdude

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/how-replace-lca-2005-a-306217/

How-to: Remove and Reinstall Siezed Cam Bolt (and LCA) *CPL* - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/torque-specs-go-list-187210/

I'll tell ya made it lot easier not having to do em from book an looking up all the torque specs just thank all the members that put all those together Bandito. I was lucky when I was doing the drivers side last sat it just started raining as I was picking up tools.

Have fun an good luck
 

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I got my control arms today! I can’t believe the quality, so well for 108 bucks for the pair! I just hope they fit? And I also hope I can get the old control arms off without tearing the whole front end apart again? Leave everything attached on top I hope it’s not wishful thinking??
Invest in a bunch of good sawzall blades. Then cut the old units out. Then cut the old bolts.

I used 2 blades per side and did both in 30 mins!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OOPS! Had a little mishap.
Its all good now though, new contol arms, and adjustable Cam bolts front AND rear now! Those Diablo do blades Kick Butt! That lower joint was a ***** with the Axle in way! Didn’t have a deep socket to get it off. Ih well done now, all on Christmas Eve too! Wife loves me!
Alignment on Tuesday should be good to go! Merry Christmas Fronty fans!
 

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No biggie all you really have to do was put a jack under the spindle after popping upper joint remove the upper ball joint nut lean it out while pushing in on axle once you got it past hub just tie it up out of the way reinstall the upper spindle nut and then after knocking out the lower ball joint remove nut again an tie the spindle out of the way. NP there's a nice write up on doing the axle in DIY section I think glamsidude wrote it on how to reinstalling axle I'll go take a look for it this way you wont nick that seal up an leak.

BTW dont lower the truck down while axle out its keeping the differential from leaking more fluid


If you have a harbor freight nearby for only like $20 they have la 13pc 1/2" impact set in Metric that comes with the 32mm deep in six point
https://www.harborfreight.com/13-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-deep-socket-set-61903.html
An here's a 20% coupon cause it ain't on sale but same price with coupon
https://www.harborfreight.com/online_coupon.html

You dont even need to print coupon you can just show them a pic of it on your phone an they'll give it to you

Here's the write up if you need it an it is from him
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/how-cv-joints-removal-service-install-222537/
 

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I am starting to get the lift itch too


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