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well here i am , 2003 CC SC LB , searching for more power.Ive got the K&N FIPK., ive got the exhaust , but what to do now. hmmmmmm maybe SC pulley......hmmmmm .....so ,
Ive been through this site extensively , ive googled, ive researched my research.
yes i have had the Knock sensor issue. i have figured out how to manage the faulty sensor( just reset), ive tried better gas , ive tried timing, ive done the tune up with colder plugs, ive done it all.
call me the trouble shoot master.

damn there seems to be alot of negative info on these pulley swaps, but how could this be/???
so after everything i still bought the 2.3 pulley.but to be safe SC has 170K
i ALSO bought a 'snout" bearing and coupler kit.

10K later i couldnt be more pleased., i really cant believe how much negative info is out there regarding the pulley swaps.

i also cant believe how many people fuss over the Knock Sensor.

I bought myself a SCANGAUGE II , and was able to manage the Knock sensor, in fact the "coffee grinder" noise is strictly the point at which the sensor has faulted , and the SC being bypassed.
i promise this.

if you really want to test to see if the sensor is bad , add the highest octane you can possibly add and if nothing changes in regards to the knock sensor faulting, then you can be SURE its a bad sensor. many manufacturers have this problem NISSAN is one , FIX IT , use the sticky in this forum. DONE!!

now order yourselves the 2.3 pulley , dont worry about it ruining the SC , the snout kits are CHEAP !!! and easy to deal with. dont worry about exceeding the maximum RPM at your engines 5500rpm.
once you hear that sweet sweet whine and realize youve just added the best dollar for power output upgrade money can buy !!!
its not just butt dyno worthy its frikin awesome!!!
It SERIously wakes up the truck , youll see 6psi boost and 2500 rpm in second gear , youll see 12psi at 5000rpm in passing gear !!!
it , my friends, is the best upgreade to anything i have ever done!!

and again i say , forget about blowing up your SC , they are plentiful, they are cheap to rebuild. and when your knock sensor doesnt cause the bypass , which you can hear , and with a scan tool , you can reset at will ( assuming you havent done the sensor , it will get you by),
once its out of fail safe it will feel like a different truck , i promise.

so in conclusion , if you have the sensor problem, buy a SCANGAUGE II , that way you can reset and monitor all sorts of things( $100) , buy the pulleu and snout kit( $160) , and then if you want to , do the sensor at a later time, i promise this above anything else you can do to the VG33 is THE BEST thing you could ever do !!!
 

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Do you have inspections in your state? If not then remove the secondary kitties.
 

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Gimme the skinny on the other upgrades. How much HP increase did you get before the pulley change? I recently bought an 04 CC S/C and so far I love this truck. Its my favorite of the 15 other Nissans I've owned. It has decent power as is, but my 3" suspension lift is on the way, and soon will be a bigger tire. I know going to the bigger tire will cause me to lose some of the get up and go. So I will need to replace that lost power somehow. I wasnt sure if the other ugrades would be enough to compensate. I too have read many negative comments about the 2.3. But being power thirsty has made me curious. A step by step simplistic write up would be extremely helpful. I do most of my own work, but this is my first S/C vehicle, so I am very unfamiliar about all of it. Thanks.
 

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even though i have inspections, is that really worth it?
Forced induction motors crave a free-flowing exhaust so anything you can do towards that end will pay big dividends. Inspections or not, dump the secondary kitties. Hell, if you have no inspections, I'd dump the primary kitties too, but I'm not a big fan of the whole environment nonsense.

So, in short, yes it is absolutely worth it.
 

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I removed mine and I noticed a difference. However, I have no proof to back me up.
 

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This is the first page of the Exhaust section from a very informative book (Maximum Boost by Corky Bell) on the modern forced induction-equipped motor. Please feel free to substitute "turbocharger" with "supercharger" as they are one in the same for the purpose of this argument. What you can barely see in the margin is the quote "The best exhaust for a turbo is the least exhaust."

 

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A supercharger likes a little back pressure. I lost a few lbs of boost in the low end with my free flowing exhaust.. A choked up exhaust will give you better low end torque but a better flowing will yield more torque in high end. I've done the headers no cats 5 speed short ram all new sensors that cause boost drop tb heater delete and I've had my spare blower with a 2.3 pully chilling I just haven't put it on cause it's so hot here like 100 daily . .
 

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In a truck application where you would like low end torque it gets compromised with free flowing exhaust. Now I have headers and no cats . And dealing with shitty mufflers I've gone from a super free flowing exhaust to a muffler with a **** ton of baffles and I got a little more low end back and a few psi on the boost guage. I would think you would know this stuff
 

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Worst statement ever. Do your homework.
He is not wrong. A turbo relies on the speed of the exhaust to wind up so they love free flowing exhaust. A SC on the other hand dose not give a flying finger as to how fast the exhaust is moving. In fact on engines not built for high performance applications (i.e. the VG33) you can end up with a serious power band shift that is not great. Threw some 4-2-1 headers on a NA escort and watched my zero to sixty go from bad to worse. There are two times a free flowing exhaust is going to do anything positive with out tanking a good chunk of your take off power. One in any high compression engine. These have a tendency to shift past the exhaust stroke without fully purging the cylinderand exhaustrunner. So diminishing the back pressure will see an increase with little to no loss in bottom end. Then you have turbos as mentioned before the faster the exhaust the faster the turbo up till you hit the turbos max rpm then you will most likely end up picking chunks of impeller out of your charge cooler and potentially roasting your engine. Also with the vg33 being such a hot motor (temp wise) I would not want to lose to much exhaust scavenging as this not only helps with emissions but cooling the valves. this is why if you run to short of an exhauste you can burn a valve. the action of essentially deleting scavenging plus allowing cold air to back track through the exhaust = burned valves. The only time a SC needs a larger exhaust is if it's boost pressure provides a volume of air that goes above what the engine and exhaust are able to mechanically move. This can cause excess back pressure and loss in efficiency in the overall performance of the motor. Our SC motors mechanically are designed to take ten to twelve then set to 5 or 6 pounds of boost and the exhaust is tuned to that so the stock motor set up is near optimal for power band. Rule of thumb for performance is you do not see any real gains without improvement on both sides of the motor as in ability to take in air plus ability to get rid of exhaust. So unless you are going to do a big increase on boost there is no need to do much with the exhaust on you vg33. I would start with some federal down tubes and a pully swap. This frees up quite a good bit of flow and near doubles the boost and will see an increase in top end and probably no loss on the low end of the power band at all If your lucky a gain. To my knowledge the front cats or kick off cats are only required in CA the federal down tubes available on Amazon are legal in all other states. My X passes emissions in AZ every two years with them been in there for about 6 years. But I don't know for sure about other states other than CA. Performance is about balance you cannot move the dial on either end and expect any real gain unless the opposite system is up to par on working with the upgrade. adding High boost/ compression with poor exhaust flow equals bad drivability issues at worst or at least zero gain for money spent and adding high exhaust flow with stock intake pressures equals crappy power band shift. And any modification done to your truck to increase power will always reduce the mechanical life. Though of life loss varies from ever so slightly to immediately yeeting a rod through the side of your block. Your millage may vary depending on power gains versus durability upgrads.
 

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He is not wrong. Well in theory he is, but in application he is correct. A turbo relies on the speed of the exhaust to wind up so they love free flowing exhaust to a point. A SC on the other hand dose not give a flying finger as to how fast the exhaust is moving or back pressure. In fact on engines not built for high performance applications (i.e. the VG33) you can end up with a serious power band shift that is not great if you free up exhaustback pressure. I threw some 4-2-1 headers on a NA escort and watched my zero to sixty go from bad to worse. There are two times a free flowing exhaust is going to do anything positive with out tanking a good chunk of your take off power. One in any older high compression engines. These have a tendency to shift past the exhaust stroke without fully purging the cylinderand exhaust tube because the factory did not care much about squeezingevery ounce of performanceout of stock applications. So diminishing the back pressure will see a mild increase in performance with little to no loss in bottom end. Then you have turbos as mentioned before the faster the exhaust the faster the turbo up till you hit the turbos max rpm then you will most likely end up picking chunks of impeller out of your charge cooler and potentially roasting your engine. Also with the vg33 being such a hot motor (temp wise) I would not want to lose to much of the exhaust scavenging as this not only helps with emissions but cooling the valves. this is why if you run too short of an exhauste you can burn a valve. the action of essentially deleting scavenging plus allowing cold air to back track through the exhaust = burned valves. The only time a SC needs a larger exhaust is if it's boost pressure provides a volume of air that goes above what the engine and exhaust are able to mechanically move. This can cause excess back pressure and loss in efficiency in the overall performance of the motor. Our SC motors mechanically are designed to take ten to twelve then set to around 5 to 6 pounds of boost and the exhaust is tuned to that range so the stock motor set up is near optimal for power band. Rule of thumb for performance is you do not see any real gains without improvement on both sides of the motor as in ability to take in air plus ability to get rid of exhaust. So unless you are going to do a big increase on boost there is no need to do much with the exhaust on you vg33. I would start with some federal down tubes and a pully swap. This frees up quite a good bit of flow and near doubles the boost depending on the pully and you will see an increase in top end and probably no loss on the low end of the power band at all and If you did your research a gain. To my knowledge the front cats or kick off cats are only required in CA the federal down tubes available on Amazon are legal in all other states. My X passes emissions in AZ every two years with them in there for about 6 years. But I don't know for sure about other states other than CA. Performance is about balance you cannot move the dial on either end and expect any real gain unless the opposite system is up to par on working with the upgrade. adding High boost/compression with poor exhaust flow equals bad drivability issues at worst or at least low/zero gain for money spent and adding high exhaust flow with stock intake pressures equals crappy power band shift, unless the factory tune was restricting performance. You really don't see that on newer cars maybe early 90's and older but car companies started focusing on squeezing the most out of the power trains in the 80s because they had really hard to reach emissions standards, so casting a larger displacement engine and pooring more fuel down the intake was no longer an option to provide the power we consumers want in our cars. It used to be engines were barely in tune with their factory systems, great example I had a 72 ford f150 with a 302 but it had a 1.75 inch exhaust and a two barrel carb it worked fine but the carb and exhaust were at limit on that motor. I put a 2.5 inch exhaust and a four barrel and she roared like a lion but no car past the 80s would ever see such a mechanical imbalance that reduces engine power and efficiency. Car companies did that because of insurance cost for the consumer and leave the fun of the upgrades to us as well. This is where the improper thought process about performance exhaust and intake became common place. Also it is important to remember modification done to your truck to increase power will always reduce the mechanical life and reliability. Though the loss varies from ever so slightly/ non noticeable to immediately yeeting a rod through the side of your block. Your millage may vary depending on power gains versus durability upgrads. The only thing I did with my NA actually did it on both x's was Change mufflers because I don't like the stock giant tube muffler. when offloading my SC the tube got crushed because of how damn big it was it sat lower than the frame. I am a bit sad since it was stainless. My NA I changed the trash can of a muffler out just to avoid that an get her sounding a bit different. That one was not stainless. Fun finding all the differences between the xterras and frontiers various models.
 

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well here i am , 2003 CC SC LB , searching for more power.Ive got the K&N FIPK., ive got the exhaust , but what to do now. hmmmmmm maybe SC pulley......hmmmmm .....so ,
Ive been through this site extensively , ive googled, ive researched my research.
yes i have had the Knock sensor issue. i have figured out how to manage the faulty sensor( just reset), ive tried better gas , ive tried timing, ive done the tune up with colder plugs, ive done it all.
call me the trouble shoot master.

damn there seems to be alot of negative info on these pulley swaps, but how could this be/???
so after everything i still bought the 2.3 pulley.but to be safe SC has 170K
i ALSO bought a 'snout" bearing and coupler kit.

10K later i couldnt be more pleased., i really cant believe how much negative info is out there regarding the pulley swaps.

i also cant believe how many people fuss over the Knock Sensor.

I bought myself a SCANGAUGE II , and was able to manage the Knock sensor, in fact the "coffee grinder" noise is strictly the point at which the sensor has faulted , and the SC being bypassed.
i promise this.

if you really want to test to see if the sensor is bad , add the highest octane you can possibly add and if nothing changes in regards to the knock sensor faulting, then you can be SURE its a bad sensor. many manufacturers have this problem NISSAN is one , FIX IT , use the sticky in this forum. DONE!!

now order yourselves the 2.3 pulley , dont worry about it ruining the SC , the snout kits are CHEAP !!! and easy to deal with. dont worry about exceeding the maximum RPM at your engines 5500rpm.
once you hear that sweet sweet whine and realize youve just added the best dollar for power output upgrade money can buy !!!
its not just butt dyno worthy its frikin awesome!!!
It SERIously wakes up the truck , youll see 6psi boost and 2500 rpm in second gear , youll see 12psi at 5000rpm in passing gear !!!
it , my friends, is the best upgreade to anything i have ever done!!

and again i say , forget about blowing up your SC , they are plentiful, they are cheap to rebuild. and when your knock sensor doesnt cause the bypass , which you can hear , and with a scan tool , you can reset at will ( assuming you havent done the sensor , it will get you by),
once its out of fail safe it will feel like a different truck , i promise.

so in conclusion , if you have the sensor problem, buy a SCANGAUGE II , that way you can reset and monitor all sorts of things( $100) , buy the pulleu and snout kit( $160) , and then if you want to , do the sensor at a later time, i promise this above anything else you can do to the VG33 is THE BEST thing you could ever do !!!
well here i am , 2003 CC SC LB , searching for more power.Ive got the K&N FIPK., ive got the exhaust , but what to do now. hmmmmmm maybe SC pulley......hmmmmm .....so ,
Ive been through this site extensively , ive googled, ive researched my research.
yes i have had the Knock sensor issue. i have figured out how to manage the faulty sensor( just reset), ive tried better gas , ive tried timing, ive done the tune up with colder plugs, ive done it all.
call me the trouble shoot master.

damn there seems to be alot of negative info on these pulley swaps, but how could this be/???
so after everything i still bought the 2.3 pulley.but to be safe SC has 170K
i ALSO bought a 'snout" bearing and coupler kit.

10K later i couldnt be more pleased., i really cant believe how much negative info is out there regarding the pulley swaps.

i also cant believe how many people fuss over the Knock Sensor.

I bought myself a SCANGAUGE II , and was able to manage the Knock sensor, in fact the "coffee grinder" noise is strictly the point at which the sensor has faulted , and the SC being bypassed.
i promise this.

if you really want to test to see if the sensor is bad , add the highest octane you can possibly add and if nothing changes in regards to the knock sensor faulting, then you can be SURE its a bad sensor. many manufacturers have this problem NISSAN is one , FIX IT , use the sticky in this forum. DONE!!

now order yourselves the 2.3 pulley , dont worry about it ruining the SC , the snout kits are CHEAP !!! and easy to deal with. dont worry about exceeding the maximum RPM at your engines 5500rpm.
once you hear that sweet sweet whine and realize youve just added the best dollar for power output upgrade money can buy !!!
its not just butt dyno worthy its frikin awesome!!!
It SERIously wakes up the truck , youll see 6psi boost and 2500 rpm in second gear , youll see 12psi at 5000rpm in passing gear !!!
it , my friends, is the best upgreade to anything i have ever done!!

and again i say , forget about blowing up your SC , they are plentiful, they are cheap to rebuild. and when your knock sensor doesnt cause the bypass , which you can hear , and with a scan tool , you can reset at will ( assuming you havent done the sensor , it will get you by),
once its out of fail safe it will feel like a different truck , i promise.

so in conclusion , if you have the sensor problem, buy a SCANGAUGE II , that way you can reset and monitor all sorts of things( $100) , buy the pulleu and snout kit( $160) , and then if you want to , do the sensor at a later time, i promise this above anything else you can do to the VG33 is THE BEST thing you could ever do !!!
Hey I recently bought an 03 sc frontier what pulley did you buy and what kit? Thanks in advanced!
 

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Hey I recently bought an 03 sc frontier what pulley did you buy and what kit? Thanks in advanced!

For a Quick-change pulley kit:

For the press-fit pulley:

You'll also need the tool:
 

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For a Quick-change pulley kit:

For the press-fit pulley:

You'll also need the tool:
So whats better pully kit or the pressed pulls? Also my truck has 168k miles will it be save to go with the 2.3?
 

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Personal preference, the press vs qwickchange is just that. One is pressed onto the supercharger while the other one comes with an adapter that allows you to change pulleys easily in the future.
 

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Personal preference, the press vs qwickchange is just that. One is pressed onto the supercharger while the other one comes with an adapter that allows you to change pulleys easily in the future.
Ahh noted thanks for the info! Any chance you'd know what mud tire sizes would go for the stocked 03?
 

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So whats better pully kit or the pressed pulls? Also my truck has 168k miles will it be save to go with the 2.3?
The 2.4 pulley may be a little safer.
 
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