theres only one air box,unless your talking about the resonator inside the fender.
![]()
1st Gen FAQ...PLEASE READ. ADD INPUT
WELCOME to ClubFrontier....
1998-2004 Nissan Frontiers are typically refered to as "1st generation frontiers" or "1st gens"
These trucks have a torsion bar front suspension, and a leaf spring rear suspension....
Some of the most common questions are...
1) How to lift my truck
2) What lifts are available
3) What size tires can i run
4) What Axle's do i have
I hope to answer MOST of these basic questions in this thread. But feel free to start additional threads with deeper questions...
WEBSITES TO KNOW....
www.4x4parts.com
www.calmini.com
www.spencerlowracing.com
FRONT SUSPENSION
The 1st gen frontier has the ability to adjust ride height via "pre-loading" the torsion bars... or as its better known as.... adjusting or cranking them.... Basically the torsion bar is a spring... It is connected to the LCA (lower control arm) in the front of your truck, and connected to a crossmember and adjuster in the central area of your truck. If you look under the truck, you will see on each side, just inside of the frame rails, a long bar that extends back from the LCA.. thats your torsion bar...
ALL LIFTS with the exception of very high dollar SAS or Coil Over conversion lift your truck via a torsion bar crank... Some kits have the option of upgrading to aftermarket torsion bars, but this is NOT needed.. some prefer, some prefer stock bars... The stock torsion bars have more than enough ability to give you well over the maximum 3+" of lift.
LIFT OPTIONS...
0" to 2" - You can simply adjust your torsion bars...
2.5" to 3" - You can either purchase a complete lift kit, or purchase aftermarket UCA's
To adjust your torsion bars... You simply jack up the front end of your truck, secure it with the wheels slightly off the ground, to remove any tension on the front suspension, and tighten the adjuster bolts.. There are two 19mm nuts on the top of the adjuster bolt... the top being a lock nut... simply loosen the top nut, then tightned the adjuster bolt to adjust ride height... lower truck, measure... and repeat untill you have desired height.... REMEMBER.... you want a minimum of 1/2" of room between the bottom of your UCA, and the bump stop which is below it.....
or click here for some detailed instructions with pictures...TorsionBarWriteUp
It is said to always get an alighnment after adjusting torsion bars, however in MOST cases, it will not effect your alignmnt, however this is YOUR CHOICE... if it needs the alignment, GET IT DONE.
You always have the option of purchasing a lift "kit" that is complete with all that is needed... However there are lots of people who do the lifts in steps... Lots of people start off with a simple torsion bar adjustment, then decide they want more.... Here are your options...
1) Add aftermarket UCA's. Basically as you adjust the height of your truck with your stock UCA's, the angle that they sit changes, which also changes the ball joint angle and slightly changes your camber. Aftermarket UCA's DO NOT ACTUALLY LIFT YOUR TRUCK... The torsion bars do... The aftermarket UCA's are simply designed at a differant angle, so that when the truck is adjusted by 2.5-3", the ball joint angles, and your camber are at the correct points... There are several options, and most of them are in the $350.00 range.
AS I UNDERSTAND IT... Now keep in mind, because we use torsion bars, there is the ability to adjust... but... the lift amounts below are what I've come to understand the aftermarket UCA's to be designed to provide...
AC (4x4parts) and Rancho - 2.5"... both of these are almost identical.
Calmini and SLR Econ's - 3"... both of these are almost the same exact design.
SLR Stage series - 3" plus added down travel....
STOCK TORSION BARS VS. AFTERMARKET
Aftermarket torsion bars are basically the same thing, except they have a higher spring rate... Basically they are stiffer... Some like this, as they feel them to be stronger, some don't because its said that the stock bars will flex better... This is 100% a matter of personal preferance...They are NOT needed to achieve the lfit..
RE-INDEX - In the even that you are adjusting your torsion bars, and the adjuster bolts run out of adjusting room.. (the brackets they go through have no more movement available)... you can reindex the stock bars... Basically the ends of the bars are splined... you simply remove the adjuster bolt, back the bars out of the ends... rotate them by 1 or 2 splines, which will give you the extra ability to adjust higher...
SHOCKS... With a simple torsion bar adjustment, its not requried to upgrade shocks, but lots of people do.... If you are lifting to the 2.5 to 3" range... you will need to upgrade...
Now... There are wide spread comments on the good/bad effects of adjusting your torsion bars.... As most of us have found... There really is no DOWN side to doing this....
Will your truck's ride get stiffer due to adjusting the torsion bars? NO!.. however people do tend to say it does... And the reason has little to do with the torsion bars, but more in the fact that they are adjusting to much. When you adjust your torsion bars for more lift, you are changing the angles that your control arms sit. Just under your UCA (upper control arm) there is a little black rubber bump stop. This is there so that when the front end goes up, and the wheels "droop" or drop down, it prevents the suspension from drooping to far, and causing your CV's (axles) to bind, and possibly brake. Normally when you go over a bump, your front suspension has plenty of room to travel before that bump stop, so it never actually contacts it. But by lifting more than 1.5-2" this way, you are causing the front end to contact those stops more than regular, resulting in what seems to be a stiff ride. Worn out shocks can also play a part in this, however the simple answer, is distance between UCA and bump stop... You can purchase "low profile" bump stops from www.4x4parts.com which can help with some of this.
REAR SUSPENSION....
you have 3 basic options....
1) Blocks
2) Shackles
3) AAL's (add a leaf) or custom leaf packs.
I personally don't like blocks.. but they work... but i won't go into details on the
SHACKLES... You have several options... the aftermarket parts places listed do sell them... OR... AutoZone and several other places do sell universal ones that can be used for aprox $14.00... The aftermarket ones available are stronger, but the universal ones are usable... Shackles will provide the most flex of all these options...
AAL's.. they sell Add A Leafs that range from cheaper 1pc to more exspensive 3pc sets... This is the BEST way.. however they don't flex as good as shackles, so lots of people combine shackes and aal's..
BODY LIFTS...
4x4parts.com sells a 2" and a 3" body lift... The 2" is less work to install, however both work great.. A body lift ONLY raises the body of the truck... giving it the lifted look, however the suspension and frame are still at the EXACT same height.... The one MAJOR advangate with a body lift is the fact that it allows for bigger tires, because it raises the wheel well higher above the tire, which creates more room for larger tires... Body lifts are typically less money to purchase, but way more work to install...
TIRE SIZES....
FLAT OUT... there is NO answer for the biggest tire you can run...
With minimal change, a 31" tire is usually never a problem... With a body lift, or 2" or better suspesion lift, a 32" tire is IDEAL...
YES... you can make larger tires fit... NO... there is no way to tell you what you can fit...
The size tire you can fit all comes down to what rim your using... and what the backspacing is... the wider the stance, the smaller the tire, because as you move to a wider offset, at full turn, your tire is no longer tucked inside the fender, and will rub with a smaller tire than with stock rims... Larger tires are simply trial and error... Sorry, the simple answer just doesn't exist....
AXLES... What do I have??? This link should just about cover it.....
http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/ubb.x/a/tpc/f/3766078435/m/88310151411
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. As other things get posted in this thread, I will update the original post with most of this information, and/or links to the information. We are attempting to stay as factual as possible with everything posted here, however based on the type of suspension we have, and differant offsets of rims people use, it is intirely possible for two people to have completely differant results in regards to several things covered in this thread...
1998-2004 Nissan Frontiers are typically refered to as "1st generation frontiers" or "1st gens"
These trucks have a torsion bar front suspension, and a leaf spring rear suspension....
Some of the most common questions are...
1) How to lift my truck
2) What lifts are available
3) What size tires can i run
4) What Axle's do i have
I hope to answer MOST of these basic questions in this thread. But feel free to start additional threads with deeper questions...
WEBSITES TO KNOW....
www.4x4parts.com
www.calmini.com
www.spencerlowracing.com
FRONT SUSPENSION
The 1st gen frontier has the ability to adjust ride height via "pre-loading" the torsion bars... or as its better known as.... adjusting or cranking them.... Basically the torsion bar is a spring... It is connected to the LCA (lower control arm) in the front of your truck, and connected to a crossmember and adjuster in the central area of your truck. If you look under the truck, you will see on each side, just inside of the frame rails, a long bar that extends back from the LCA.. thats your torsion bar...
ALL LIFTS with the exception of very high dollar SAS or Coil Over conversion lift your truck via a torsion bar crank... Some kits have the option of upgrading to aftermarket torsion bars, but this is NOT needed.. some prefer, some prefer stock bars... The stock torsion bars have more than enough ability to give you well over the maximum 3+" of lift.
LIFT OPTIONS...
0" to 2" - You can simply adjust your torsion bars...
2.5" to 3" - You can either purchase a complete lift kit, or purchase aftermarket UCA's
To adjust your torsion bars... You simply jack up the front end of your truck, secure it with the wheels slightly off the ground, to remove any tension on the front suspension, and tighten the adjuster bolts.. There are two 19mm nuts on the top of the adjuster bolt... the top being a lock nut... simply loosen the top nut, then tightned the adjuster bolt to adjust ride height... lower truck, measure... and repeat untill you have desired height.... REMEMBER.... you want a minimum of 1/2" of room between the bottom of your UCA, and the bump stop which is below it.....
or click here for some detailed instructions with pictures...TorsionBarWriteUp
It is said to always get an alighnment after adjusting torsion bars, however in MOST cases, it will not effect your alignmnt, however this is YOUR CHOICE... if it needs the alignment, GET IT DONE.
You always have the option of purchasing a lift "kit" that is complete with all that is needed... However there are lots of people who do the lifts in steps... Lots of people start off with a simple torsion bar adjustment, then decide they want more.... Here are your options...
1) Add aftermarket UCA's. Basically as you adjust the height of your truck with your stock UCA's, the angle that they sit changes, which also changes the ball joint angle and slightly changes your camber. Aftermarket UCA's DO NOT ACTUALLY LIFT YOUR TRUCK... The torsion bars do... The aftermarket UCA's are simply designed at a differant angle, so that when the truck is adjusted by 2.5-3", the ball joint angles, and your camber are at the correct points... There are several options, and most of them are in the $350.00 range.
AS I UNDERSTAND IT... Now keep in mind, because we use torsion bars, there is the ability to adjust... but... the lift amounts below are what I've come to understand the aftermarket UCA's to be designed to provide...
AC (4x4parts) and Rancho - 2.5"... both of these are almost identical.
Calmini and SLR Econ's - 3"... both of these are almost the same exact design.
SLR Stage series - 3" plus added down travel....
STOCK TORSION BARS VS. AFTERMARKET
Aftermarket torsion bars are basically the same thing, except they have a higher spring rate... Basically they are stiffer... Some like this, as they feel them to be stronger, some don't because its said that the stock bars will flex better... This is 100% a matter of personal preferance...They are NOT needed to achieve the lfit..
RE-INDEX - In the even that you are adjusting your torsion bars, and the adjuster bolts run out of adjusting room.. (the brackets they go through have no more movement available)... you can reindex the stock bars... Basically the ends of the bars are splined... you simply remove the adjuster bolt, back the bars out of the ends... rotate them by 1 or 2 splines, which will give you the extra ability to adjust higher...
SHOCKS... With a simple torsion bar adjustment, its not requried to upgrade shocks, but lots of people do.... If you are lifting to the 2.5 to 3" range... you will need to upgrade...
Now... There are wide spread comments on the good/bad effects of adjusting your torsion bars.... As most of us have found... There really is no DOWN side to doing this....
Will your truck's ride get stiffer due to adjusting the torsion bars? NO!.. however people do tend to say it does... And the reason has little to do with the torsion bars, but more in the fact that they are adjusting to much. When you adjust your torsion bars for more lift, you are changing the angles that your control arms sit. Just under your UCA (upper control arm) there is a little black rubber bump stop. This is there so that when the front end goes up, and the wheels "droop" or drop down, it prevents the suspension from drooping to far, and causing your CV's (axles) to bind, and possibly brake. Normally when you go over a bump, your front suspension has plenty of room to travel before that bump stop, so it never actually contacts it. But by lifting more than 1.5-2" this way, you are causing the front end to contact those stops more than regular, resulting in what seems to be a stiff ride. Worn out shocks can also play a part in this, however the simple answer, is distance between UCA and bump stop... You can purchase "low profile" bump stops from www.4x4parts.com which can help with some of this.
REAR SUSPENSION....
you have 3 basic options....
1) Blocks
2) Shackles
3) AAL's (add a leaf) or custom leaf packs.
I personally don't like blocks.. but they work... but i won't go into details on the
SHACKLES... You have several options... the aftermarket parts places listed do sell them... OR... AutoZone and several other places do sell universal ones that can be used for aprox $14.00... The aftermarket ones available are stronger, but the universal ones are usable... Shackles will provide the most flex of all these options...
AAL's.. they sell Add A Leafs that range from cheaper 1pc to more exspensive 3pc sets... This is the BEST way.. however they don't flex as good as shackles, so lots of people combine shackes and aal's..
BODY LIFTS...
4x4parts.com sells a 2" and a 3" body lift... The 2" is less work to install, however both work great.. A body lift ONLY raises the body of the truck... giving it the lifted look, however the suspension and frame are still at the EXACT same height.... The one MAJOR advangate with a body lift is the fact that it allows for bigger tires, because it raises the wheel well higher above the tire, which creates more room for larger tires... Body lifts are typically less money to purchase, but way more work to install...
TIRE SIZES....
FLAT OUT... there is NO answer for the biggest tire you can run...
With minimal change, a 31" tire is usually never a problem... With a body lift, or 2" or better suspesion lift, a 32" tire is IDEAL...
YES... you can make larger tires fit... NO... there is no way to tell you what you can fit...
The size tire you can fit all comes down to what rim your using... and what the backspacing is... the wider the stance, the smaller the tire, because as you move to a wider offset, at full turn, your tire is no longer tucked inside the fender, and will rub with a smaller tire than with stock rims... Larger tires are simply trial and error... Sorry, the simple answer just doesn't exist....
AXLES... What do I have??? This link should just about cover it.....
http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/ubb.x/a/tpc/f/3766078435/m/88310151411
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. As other things get posted in this thread, I will update the original post with most of this information, and/or links to the information. We are attempting to stay as factual as possible with everything posted here, however based on the type of suspension we have, and differant offsets of rims people use, it is intirely possible for two people to have completely differant results in regards to several things covered in this thread...
41 - 60 of 163 Posts
yea, pull that crap out of there. you don't need it.
i actually cut the neck of the alt resonator and cut a circle out of the actual box and glued it to the tube to make a cap. thats how i plugged it up.
i actually cut the neck of the alt resonator and cut a circle out of the actual box and glued it to the tube to make a cap. thats how i plugged it up.
the torsion bars are basically the same as the D22. it sounds like they are 3-4 notches out, pull the torsions out and turn them 3 notches and see how they adjust up. check the book for factory measurements, that way you can get it exactly back to factory.The front of the truck sits about 4 inches lower than the rear. Is this normal??? I put the torsion bars in the same splines and adjusted them to the same spot. I thought the truck sat level. If I did get them in the wrong splines what way should I rotate them to raise the truck. Clock wise or counter clock wise??? Thanks for any help.
John
i have a small problem with mine, mechanics put them in one notch out so they adjuster sticks out from underneath exposed to being hit by rocks etc.
this really should be in a seperate section not in FAQ.Since I'm a nublet to lifting I want to make sure I have this right. If I want to do a 2" body lift, I can do a torsion crank in the front and shackles in the rear. For a 3" lift, I can buy a full lift kit. Right?
plenty of choices for lifts, have a read through the forum.
i assume D22 (USA 1st gen), then i would add a leaf to the rear (fix the crap rear springs) and wind up the torsions on the front.
One of the most detailed 3" body lift instructions. Body lift for dummies :nana:
http://www.performanceaccessories.com/instructions/40043.pdf
http://www.performanceaccessories.com/instructions/40043.pdf
I'm sorry, the D22 is a evolution of the D21. They ARE the same. You can swap most of the parts backwards and forwards......um, thats quite a bad justification your making, the hardbody is basically a totally different truck from the frontier, all the way down to the frame... all different
they have differnt UCAs, t-bar specs.. etc etc...
just cuz its one digit off on the chassis code, doesnt mean its the same
These are the codes for the 3.3 and 2.4 frontier and exterra
Nissan Frontier Extera Truck 3.3L OBDII Trouble Codes DTC Troubleshooting
FRONTIER & XTERRA 3.3L
P0000
No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated
P0100
MAF Sensor
P0105
Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0110
IAT Sensor
P0115
ECT Sensor
P0120
TP Sensor
P0125
ECT Sensor
P0130–P0134
Front HO2S RH Bank
P0135
Front HO2S Heater RH Bank
P0136–P0140
Rear HO2S RH Bank
P0141
Rear HO2S Heater RH Bank
P0150–P0154
Front HO2S LH Bank
P0155
Front HO2S Heater LH Bank
P0157–P0161
Rear HO2S LH Bank
P0171
Fuel Injection System Lean RH Bank
P0172
Fuel Injection System Rich RH Bank
P0174
Fuel Injection System Lean LH Bank
P0175
Fuel Injection System Rich LH Bank
P0180
Tank Fuel Temperature Sensor
P0217
Engine Over Temp
P0300
Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0301–P0306
Misfire Cylinders 1–6
P0325
Knock Sensor
P0335
CKP Sensor
P0340
CMP Sensor
P0400
EGR Function
P0402
EGRC-BPT Valve Function
P0420
TWC Function
P0430
TWC Function
P0440
EVAP System Small Leak
P0443
EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve & Solenoid Valve
P0446
EVAP Canister Vent Control
P0450
EVAP System Pressure Sensor
P0500
VSS
P0505
IAC-AAC Valve
P0510
CTP Switch
P0600
A/T Control & Communication Line
P0705
Park Neutral Position Switch/Circuit
P0710
ATF Temp Sensor/Circuit
P0720
Vehicle Speed Sensor/Circuit
P0725
Engine Speed Signal
P0731
A/T 1ST Gear Function
P0732
A/T 2ND Gear Function
P0733
A/T 3RD Gear Function
P0734
A/T 4TH Gear Function
P0740
TCC Solenoid/Circuit
P0744
A/T TCC Switch/Valve Function
P0745
Low Pressure Solenoid/Circuit
P0750
Shift Solenoid A/Circuit
P0755
Shift Solenoid B/Circuit
P1105
MAP/BARO Switch Solenoid Valve
P1148
Closed Loop B1
P1168
Closed Loop B2
P1320
Ignition Signal
P1336
CKP Sensor
P1400
EGR Valve & EVAP Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve
P1401
EGR Temperature Sensor
P1402
EGR System
P1440
EVAP System Small Leak
P1444
Purge Volume Control Valve
P1446
EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve
P1447
EVAP System Purge Flow Monitoring
P1448
Vacuum Cut Valve
P1490
Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1491
Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1605
A/T Diagnosis Communication Line
P1705
Throttle Position Sensor/Circuit A/T
P1706
PNP Switch/Circuit
P1760
Over/Run Clutch Solenoid/Circuit
Nissan Frontier Extera 2.4L OBDII Trouble Codes DTC Troubleshooting List Guide
FRONTIER & XTERRA 2.4L
P0000
No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated
P0100
MAF Sensor
P0105
Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0110
IAT Sensor
P0115
ECT Sensor
P0120
TP Sensor
P0125
ECT Sensor
P0130–P0134
Front HO2S
P0135
Front HO2S Heater
P0137–P0140
Rear HO2S
P0141
Rear HO2S Heater
P0171
Fuel Injection System Lean
P0172
Fuel Injection System Rich
P0180
Tank Fuel Temperature Sensor
P0300
Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0301–P0304
Misfire, Cylinders 1–4
P0325
Knock Sensor
P0335
CKP Sensor
P0340
CMP Sensor, Detectable & Non-Detectable Circuit
P0400
EGR Function
P0402
EGRC-BPT Valve
P0420
TWC Function
P0440
EVAP System Small Leak
P0443
EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
P0446
EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit
P0450
EVAP Control System Pressure Sensor
P0500
VSS
P0505
IAC-AAC Valve
P0510
CTP
P0605
ECM/ECCS Module
P1105
MAP/BARO Switch Solenoid Valve
P1148
Closed Loop Control
P1320
Ignition Signal
P1336
CKP
P1400
EGR & Canister Control Solenoid Valve
P1401
EGR Temperature Sensor
P1402
EGR System
P1440
EVAP System Small Leak
P1444
Purge Volume Control Valve
P1446
Vacuum Cut Valve
P1447
EVAP Purge Flow Monitor
P1448
Vacuum Cut Valve
P1490
Vacuum Cut/Bypass Valve
P1491
Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1706
Park/Neutral Position Switch
P1775
TCC Solenoid Valve Circuit
P1776
TCC Clutch Solenoid Valve
Nissan Frontier Extera Truck 3.3L OBDII Trouble Codes DTC Troubleshooting
FRONTIER & XTERRA 3.3L
P0000
No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated
P0100
MAF Sensor
P0105
Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0110
IAT Sensor
P0115
ECT Sensor
P0120
TP Sensor
P0125
ECT Sensor
P0130–P0134
Front HO2S RH Bank
P0135
Front HO2S Heater RH Bank
P0136–P0140
Rear HO2S RH Bank
P0141
Rear HO2S Heater RH Bank
P0150–P0154
Front HO2S LH Bank
P0155
Front HO2S Heater LH Bank
P0157–P0161
Rear HO2S LH Bank
P0171
Fuel Injection System Lean RH Bank
P0172
Fuel Injection System Rich RH Bank
P0174
Fuel Injection System Lean LH Bank
P0175
Fuel Injection System Rich LH Bank
P0180
Tank Fuel Temperature Sensor
P0217
Engine Over Temp
P0300
Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0301–P0306
Misfire Cylinders 1–6
P0325
Knock Sensor
P0335
CKP Sensor
P0340
CMP Sensor
P0400
EGR Function
P0402
EGRC-BPT Valve Function
P0420
TWC Function
P0430
TWC Function
P0440
EVAP System Small Leak
P0443
EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve & Solenoid Valve
P0446
EVAP Canister Vent Control
P0450
EVAP System Pressure Sensor
P0500
VSS
P0505
IAC-AAC Valve
P0510
CTP Switch
P0600
A/T Control & Communication Line
P0705
Park Neutral Position Switch/Circuit
P0710
ATF Temp Sensor/Circuit
P0720
Vehicle Speed Sensor/Circuit
P0725
Engine Speed Signal
P0731
A/T 1ST Gear Function
P0732
A/T 2ND Gear Function
P0733
A/T 3RD Gear Function
P0734
A/T 4TH Gear Function
P0740
TCC Solenoid/Circuit
P0744
A/T TCC Switch/Valve Function
P0745
Low Pressure Solenoid/Circuit
P0750
Shift Solenoid A/Circuit
P0755
Shift Solenoid B/Circuit
P1105
MAP/BARO Switch Solenoid Valve
P1148
Closed Loop B1
P1168
Closed Loop B2
P1320
Ignition Signal
P1336
CKP Sensor
P1400
EGR Valve & EVAP Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve
P1401
EGR Temperature Sensor
P1402
EGR System
P1440
EVAP System Small Leak
P1444
Purge Volume Control Valve
P1446
EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve
P1447
EVAP System Purge Flow Monitoring
P1448
Vacuum Cut Valve
P1490
Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1491
Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1605
A/T Diagnosis Communication Line
P1705
Throttle Position Sensor/Circuit A/T
P1706
PNP Switch/Circuit
P1760
Over/Run Clutch Solenoid/Circuit
Nissan Frontier Extera 2.4L OBDII Trouble Codes DTC Troubleshooting List Guide
FRONTIER & XTERRA 2.4L
P0000
No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated
P0100
MAF Sensor
P0105
Absolute Pressure Sensor
P0110
IAT Sensor
P0115
ECT Sensor
P0120
TP Sensor
P0125
ECT Sensor
P0130–P0134
Front HO2S
P0135
Front HO2S Heater
P0137–P0140
Rear HO2S
P0141
Rear HO2S Heater
P0171
Fuel Injection System Lean
P0172
Fuel Injection System Rich
P0180
Tank Fuel Temperature Sensor
P0300
Multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0301–P0304
Misfire, Cylinders 1–4
P0325
Knock Sensor
P0335
CKP Sensor
P0340
CMP Sensor, Detectable & Non-Detectable Circuit
P0400
EGR Function
P0402
EGRC-BPT Valve
P0420
TWC Function
P0440
EVAP System Small Leak
P0443
EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
P0446
EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit
P0450
EVAP Control System Pressure Sensor
P0500
VSS
P0505
IAC-AAC Valve
P0510
CTP
P0605
ECM/ECCS Module
P1105
MAP/BARO Switch Solenoid Valve
P1148
Closed Loop Control
P1320
Ignition Signal
P1336
CKP
P1400
EGR & Canister Control Solenoid Valve
P1401
EGR Temperature Sensor
P1402
EGR System
P1440
EVAP System Small Leak
P1444
Purge Volume Control Valve
P1446
Vacuum Cut Valve
P1447
EVAP Purge Flow Monitor
P1448
Vacuum Cut Valve
P1490
Vacuum Cut/Bypass Valve
P1491
Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1706
Park/Neutral Position Switch
P1775
TCC Solenoid Valve Circuit
P1776
TCC Clutch Solenoid Valve
Door pannels are easier than you think.. You can get a tool for it looks like a 2 prong flat fork( flat blade like a butter knife or a screw driver works too.).. slide it between the panned and the door itself. get the snap positioned between the prongs and pry lightly.. You need a flat bladed screwdriver to get the window crank off and you need to unscrew handles and botton pannels.. the whole thing is held on by a bunch of snap in pins.. Take your time and dont bend the door skin...:crib:well, as for speakers, a stock nissan comes with 2 door speakers that can be replaced with aftermarket 6.5 inchers with no problem, the only thing is tho is getting that pesky door panel off.. does anyone kno how? (a shop did my door speakers) that would be awsome advice to put in here.
o and for you extended cab owners, you can stick a single 12 box or a dual 12 box just about anywhere, i personally went with a 15, aka mega bass for a smaller sized truck. and if having trouble finding a place to put it, make a plateform so everything will be level, just measure the back space and cut it out on a square piece of plywood. then build supports based on how high you want the plateform to be, i did mine flush with the cup holder in back of the console. then if wanted, grab some carpet and some glue and stick the carpet on there, it makes it look like the floor is even and smooth but with a "from the factory look" (i got the same color carpet as the rest of the truck).
just some fyi, even with t-bar lift some 31's will rub, infact my BFG AT T/A's Rub this is with stock rims w/ about 1 1/2 inches of lift, rubs right on the idler arm and pitman arm, Not sure if this is true for all SE's and LE's but on the first gen XE at least for me its true.
i dont know about all the others but the 02 crew cab speakers are 6 1/2 in the front and 4 in the back and 1 inch tweeter in front by the windshield... i upgraded all to infinity kappas with components in front and kappa perfect tweeters and three 12" cvrs in the back had to put a kinetik hc1800 to push my jbl gto14001 and gto504... had to take out back seat but sounds amazing... soon building some 6x9 boxes for the infinity kappa 3 ways... i did everything myself i jus have to clean it up a little to make it look better
I just read the torsion bar write up. SO i dont have to adjust the bottom of the bolt at all? I just loosen the lock nut and then adjust the torsion nut? I thought the torsion nut was supossed to be welded to the cross bar?
Tire size
As a Frontier owner and ASE certified Tech I completely agree 31-32 will fit with minor mods to the fender flares I put 31x10.5's on the stock 15's and they rubbed when turned lock to lock until I removed the front section of the fender flare as well as shaving some of the fender well. Especially for new people or those less mechanically inclined 31's-32's are as big as you should go also anylarger and you need to start recalibrating your speedo. (forgot with my old truck and paid 250 to the town of Marana. it had 33's)
I would add however with your torsion bar advice to observe the torque specs when tightening them down or you will end up stripping them out. Expensive. Although following torque specs hopefully is an understood.
Also a vote? are you guys happy with me choosing the 31-32" tire as the suggested top end tire size? based on the reasoning i gave? I want to make sure this is not only MY OPINION, but truthful info....
As a Frontier owner and ASE certified Tech I completely agree 31-32 will fit with minor mods to the fender flares I put 31x10.5's on the stock 15's and they rubbed when turned lock to lock until I removed the front section of the fender flare as well as shaving some of the fender well. Especially for new people or those less mechanically inclined 31's-32's are as big as you should go also anylarger and you need to start recalibrating your speedo. (forgot with my old truck and paid 250 to the town of Marana. it had 33's)
I would add however with your torsion bar advice to observe the torque specs when tightening them down or you will end up stripping them out. Expensive. Although following torque specs hopefully is an understood.
Where is the best place to get an AAL kit?
I chose to stick with 32's for tires because honestly, the 32" tire is probably the best bet, especially for new guys.... With a lift, 33's will work, but most people that wheel and lift, don't keep stock rims, and they chose a wider offset. so when off road, the 33's can rub... hell.... I've had my 32's rub when i was only 2-2.5" of lift... So i figued if people are experienced enough with modding there rigs, they will know what they can and can not fit, but for new guys to this, its safer to give a realistic expectation that they can do a small lift and 32's with no real issues...
as for shackles.... Lots of the blame doesn't go to the shackles, but more so the weak leaf packs our trucks come with... I think more of it comes from the fact that once we lift, we also start wheeling, and start trying to flex our trucks out as often as we can.... and that in itself is more likely to be the reason they flatten out... because at that point, we are stressing the already weak leaf packs even more...... I think i hit on the AAL's are the best, but shackles create more flex thing though... which is true....
WHERE ARE MY BODY LIFT GUYS????????? Houdini, NismoGone... somebody...
anybody want to add anything, or help me out on the technical side of anything????
Also a vote? are you guys happy with me choosing the 31-32" tire as the suggested top end tire size? based on the reasoning i gave? I want to make sure this is not only MY OPINION, but truthful info....
yep. i agree that you suggest 31-32" tires. because 33" has a big effect on the performance wise of the rig.
hey i have a problem lifting my rear on my 1st gen frontier. i cant put blocks because the leafsprings are under the axle. what do i do?
You can get a single aal that will give you about 2" or you can get shackles that will give you about 1.5" or you can get a 3 aal pack that will give you a full 3 inches but you will need some parts for the front also.
what gears should i run. with 33s
anyone?
anyone?
damn... this thread still gets used huh???
UPDATES...
With proper wheel width, and some minor trimming, the 01-04 Frontier can and will run a 34" tire... I have successfully run the 34x10.50 LTB's and am currently running the 255/85/16 Big Horns...
unless you have the 4.9's, the gearing sucks for 33-34" tires, but is doable.... Not recommended for street trucks, but if you wheel, and need the height, it can be done...
as for gears... I think the 4.9's are the best option for a 33" tire.
Glad to see we still get some use out of this thread...
UPDATES...
With proper wheel width, and some minor trimming, the 01-04 Frontier can and will run a 34" tire... I have successfully run the 34x10.50 LTB's and am currently running the 255/85/16 Big Horns...
unless you have the 4.9's, the gearing sucks for 33-34" tires, but is doable.... Not recommended for street trucks, but if you wheel, and need the height, it can be done...
as for gears... I think the 4.9's are the best option for a 33" tire.
Glad to see we still get some use out of this thread...
yeah i agree 4.9's and 33's are very good
i got a question iv read that some of the navara's had a 2.5l turob diesel how ruff would the conversion be to put that motor in my 99 4x4 kingcab frontier?also is their anywere to get one of these motors?
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