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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Leak coming from transmission pan area, not sure if it's coming from the drain plug or pan gasket. Went ahead and tightened all the screws, accidentally broke one off and now I'm in a nut (pun intended). Does anyone know what size the screws are and where I can buy some replacements?
 

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Ace hardware has a ton of metric stuff.

My guess is that thread would be 6.0 x 1.0mm or 8.0 x 1.25mm.

But don't guess; remove a screw, take that into Ace or parts store and match up. A 1/4-inch drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight might be helpful too.
 

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Excellent suggestions Cusser. Oil pan bolts are lightly torqued maxb00gie. I don't know the specifications for our trucks, but I think 18 to 20 LB/FT is fairly typical for many vehicles and there's a tightening sequence too, starting from the center and working out.

Good luck with your fix. My scorecard with removing old broken bolts isn't so good. <g>
 

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6mm diameter fasteners typically get about 7 ft-lbs torque

8mm diameter fasteners typically get about 16 ft-lbs torque
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ace hardware has a ton of metric stuff.

My guess is that thread would be 6.0 x 1.0mm or 8.0 x 1.25mm.

But don't guess; remove a screw, take that into Ace or parts store and match up. A 1/4-inch drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight might be helpful too.
Thanks Cusser! That's just the answer I was lookin for. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Excellent suggestions Cusser. Oil pan bolts are lightly torqued maxb00gie. I don't know the specifications for our trucks, but I think 18 to 20 LB/FT is fairly typical for many vehicles and there's a tightening sequence too, starting from the center and working out.

Good luck with your fix. My scorecard with removing old broken bolts isn't so good. <g>
Thanks man! Screw broke off at the head so I should be able to get it out without too much problems. I had no idea they needed to be tightened in a sequence... just went to the closest nut and started tightening clockwise around the pan, that's probably why the last one ended up breaking off. kept turning and turning but wasn't feeling any reistence then all of a sudden *snap*.

I have one more question, do I need to drain the transmission fluid before I remove the pan? Just ordered a fel pro gasket and some permatex rtv silicone. Gonna try and fix it myself.
 

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I've never owned an automatic transmission, so I'm not sure. But if it's your tranny pan that's leaking, draining the fluid neatly via the plug will avoid a potential spill and mess. It'll probably be a gooey mess anyway no matter how you tackle it. <g>

Is there a tranny fluid filter inside near the pan? If so, you might want to replace it while you're in there.

Sounds like you're good to go.
 

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Thanks man! Screw broke off at the head so I should be able to get it out without too much problems. I had no idea they needed to be tightened in a sequence... just went to the closest nut and started tightening clockwise around the pan, that's probably why the last one ended up breaking off. kept turning and turning but wasn't feeling any reistence then all of a sudden *snap*.

I have one more question, do I need to drain the transmission fluid before I remove the pan? Just ordered a fel pro gasket and some permatex rtv silicone. Gonna try and fix it myself.
Yes drain the fluid, drain plug on auto oil pan makes that part easy. Since your changing the gasket, you might as well replace the filter, while the pan is off, the're pretty cheap.
 

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... Just ordered a fel pro gasket and some permatex rtv silicone. ...
I've never done this repair on a Nissan, but does the repair procedure call for both a gasket and sealant? It's usually one or the other, but not both, though in this case I might be wrong. Just wanted to mention this.
 

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I like to use a little rtv to "glue" the gasket to the pan, but not on both surfaces. Valve covers the same way. Let it set a little so you don't have to worry about the gasket shifting.
 

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Okay, that makes good sense.
 
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