[Gr8wt]

Good Day!
I've got a 2014 Frontier 4 door, V6, SV trim pkg, no navigation or Rockford Sub but has rear camera & steering wheel controls.
I'm going to start this project by replacing the OEM speakers. I'll eventually replace the HU and add a sufficient amp vying for clean signal instead of the ridiculous claimed gigawatt models. I'd love to be able to keep the HU but it's impossible since the factory radio doesn't have pre-outs or ability to match the OEM preamp to an AM amplifier. I've been looking through Crutchfield's offerings and I'm looking at some JBL seperates. Has anyone tried the 6x9's from JBL for the rear doors? Any other recommendations out there? I'm also going to try to brace the door panels to reduce rattles & reduce some of the IM distortion artifacts. I've been away from car audio for a long time so any input from your experiences good or bad is appreciated!

 

[J11PRO4X]

Good Day!
I've got a 2014 Frontier 4 door, V6, SV trim pkg, no navigation or Rockford Sub but has rear camera & steering wheel controls.
I'm going to start this project by replacing the OEM speakers. I'll eventually replace the HU and add a sufficient amp vying for clean signal instead of the ridiculous claimed gigawatt models. I'd love to be able to keep the HU but it's impossible since the factory radio doesn't have pre-outs or ability to match the OEM preamp to an AM amplifier. I've been looking through Crutchfield's offerings and I'm looking at some JBL seperates. Has anyone tried the 6x9's from JBL for the rear doors? Any other recommendations out there? I'm also going to try to brace the door panels to reduce rattles & reduce some of the IM distortion artifacts. I've been away from car audio for a long time so any input from your experiences good or bad is appreciated!

Gr8wt,

I went through the exact same thing you're wanting to do. I decided to go with the Polk component speakers to match what was previous in my truck (PRO4X). I absolutely love them! I have them paired with a Pioneer NEX4100 HU and Alpine PDX-V9 amp, two kicker CompRT 10" subs. Amazing clarity! I have also dynamatted the entire interior of my truck, one layer on outer panel of down another layer to replace the moister shield as well as the entire flooring and back wall. I love my setup to no end.

Hopefully this helps get you started! If you need more help feel free to reach out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[eroc101]

I went with Powerbass 2XL series compontents for the front and rear speakers. Soundstream 1000watt 4ch Stealth series amp speakers. Currently building an enclosure for 2 10in Powerbass Thin S Series subs to put behind my rear seats with a 2000watt Strealth amp. Had a simlar setup in my WRX. Great overall sound quality

 

[Gr8wt]

Thank you both very much! Hopefully I can help someone after I'm done with my upgrade. A sub isn't even on my radar yet, but I do like the idea of the under seat butt kicker. The insulation tips are exactly the kinds of things Ill do when installing whatever speakers I wind up with. Thanks again!

 

[OutFrontFrontier]

I just installed a set of 4 Polk DB651 in my doors to the stock HU. I can tell that sound quality is better but the speakers are way underpowered and the deeper bass is weaker than before. I didn't do any insulating or mods other than making the adapter for front 6x9 to 6.5 and minor trimming of panel interior for tweet clearance. It seems to me (asuming you have a CC) that putting 6x9s in back doors would be a huge PITA due to the design of the factory mounts. Maybe you could use the factory front 6x9 mount in the back, IDK?? There are a variety of options to add an amp to your factory HU, I went LC7i from these guys Factory System Upgrade - AudioControl I know Kicker has a version along with many others as well. Many others have played this game on here though, you will hear the same thing every time though. Replace the factory HU 1st before you do anything else. I didn't listen either!!

 

[Gr8wt]

Thanks OFF! You're right, I found some posts saying exactly what you're saying! There was also some confusion on my part of the 6x9's being mounted in the rear, instead of what actually makes more sense of being mounted up front.
There's some things that I just ain't gonna do, like buy an amp and use speaker level outputs into the amp. Usually the only thing that is accomplished is amplifying the noise too. Speaker efficiency is a big deal for that reason, I would be pretty happy with around 120 db peak on my SPL & spectrum analyzers. I'm not saying I'll listen at those levels, but I'd like to have some headroom.
Whether I wind up replacing the HU doesn't matter at this point because the speakers are going to be replaced regardless of what else happens. I've got two reasons for avoiding replacing the HU, I don't want a PITA or BS problems with the steering wheel controls (or BS adapter kits) and the camera. The system is pretty good, but Pioneer/Toyota did a better job, but I didn't buy a Toyota either lol There's more likelihood of the OEM doing more acoustic R&D than anyone I know is equipped or trained for. So, there's that...and thank you very much! Any info I get is good & I'll definitely share my (slow and painful) progress & the many Charlie Foxtrot s I'll create for myself along the way.

 

[Boomer32]

Think your set-up depends on the sound quality you're after and what bells and whistles you want from a new HU and speakers. I went with a lower end Pioneer, and wanted a little punch on the low end and be able to hear when the sunroof is open on the highway. I mostly listen to rock/country. I couldn't justify spending almost $1K on a HU - my truck only sees the road on the weekends.

My installer said the steering wheel controls were a little tricky but he got it sorted out. My backup camera works perfectly too.

Have two Alpine SPR-69 6x9's up front and the Polk DB6501 components in the back, along with a Kicker 40CWRT102 10 inch sub all pushed by an Alpine PDR-V75 - Dynamat Extreme on all the doors. Sound is night and day compared to the stock Rockford HU.

I drilled down what I wanted (what is compatible), how much I was willing to spend and shopped around for the cheapest price along w/warranty coverage. Most of the stuff I bought was on Amazon - just be sure the seller is an authorized seller of the brand you select.

Good luck in your search.

 

[shift_RUSH]

I'm out of touch w/ all the audio-lingo, so pardon me on this post. IFF going w/ an amp, you will need an amp grounding kit as well as the possibility of noise suppression to eliminate any unwanted sounds (alternator/etc). Not sure if you wish to install yourself or have it done, but should you have it done - I'd ask around for recommendations/references to help know you're making a quality choice. My installer did a great job and I had zero complaints with unwanted noise or vibrations in the cab of '00 Frontier. A 10" sealed sub was my first ever sub......so I learned the LONG way that I'll 'not go w/o' a sub in all subsequent aftermarket systems.

I'm actually surprised at times with the OEM in my '15 SV KC. While I'll only rate it as OK, it is better than I had expected.

 

[Gr8wt]

I just installed a set of 4 Polk DB651 in my doors to the stock HU. I can tell that sound quality is better but the speakers are way underpowered and the deeper bass is weaker than before. I didn't do any insulating or mods other than making the adapter for front 6x9 to 6.5 and minor trimming of panel interior for tweet clearance. It seems to me (asuming you have a CC) that putting 6x9s in back doors would be a huge PITA due to the design of the factory mounts. Maybe you could use the factory front 6x9 mount in the back, IDK?? There are a variety of options to add an amp to your factory HU, I went LC7i from these guys Factory System Upgrade - AudioControl I know Kicker has a version along with many others as well. Many others have played this game on here though, you will hear the same thing every time though. Replace the factory HU 1st before you do anything else. I didn't listen either!!

Hi OFF!
I owe you an apology, dude. I dismissed the info you gave me about the speaker level amplifier too quickly! I was shown a device that digitally sums the output of the HU for amplification. I assume its using DSP chip sets to correct the signal before being amplified. I doubt that I'll go this route, but it was interesting as hell how far things have evolved. The last car audio part I bought for myself was a Nakamichi HU cassette (with auto reverse no less lol). That's been so long ago that most of the people on here weren't even born yet then!!! So again, my apologies and my thanks!

 

[Gr8wt]

I'm out of touch w/ all the audio-lingo, so pardon me on this post. IFF going w/ an amp, you will need an amp grounding kit as well as the possibility of noise suppression to eliminate any unwanted sounds (alternator/etc). Not sure if you wish to install yourself or have it done, but should you have it done - I'd ask around for recommendations/references to help know you're making a quality choice. My installer did a great job and I had zero complaints with unwanted noise or vibrations in the cab of '00 Frontier. A 10" sealed sub was my first ever sub......so I learned the LONG way that I'll 'not go w/o' a sub in all subsequent aftermarket systems.

I'm actually surprised at times with the OEM in my '15 SV KC. While I'll only rate it as OK, it is better than I had expected.

shift_Rush,

The most off putting thing about a subwoofer is where the hell I'd put it! I've already had a " wake up old fart" moment on the first day of looking at equipment. The thing is that you can't change the laws of physics or science, which is part of why car audio is so challenging. I have built sealed enclosures with 8" drivers that out performed factory built enclosures with 2 12" drivers. I just did a better job putting the enclosure together with internal bracing, better damping material, & better cross overs / system integration. I also used the formulas considering the cone excursion, cabinet volume, etc. I don't remember most of what I did way back when & I'm not sure if I have the patience either! I liked the marine audio from JL Audio, at the very least, they did a helluva job engineering the display. It sounded better than anything I've tried, but it's also way out of my budget. That said, there's a lot of new technology that seems to bend the rules of physics and science as it applies to audio as I knew it hundreds of years ago. I realized yesterday that the last car audio part I bought for myself was a Nakamichi HU with a cassette player. At least it wasn't an 8-track (yeah I'm that old) lol. Damn I'm feeling old!

 

[shift_RUSH]

I do remember our 8-track player in the living room stereo...as well as my upper tier "Concord" cassette HU (mid-late 80s?) with all kinds of equalizing bells/whistles. lol
You are far more in the know than I. Having a KC means I do have the room for a decent sub box...which I plan to do whenever this mod gets moved to the front burner. Am still in practicality-mode of outfitting my worktruck/DD, however. Audiophile mods will have to wait a while longer. Best to you and your modding, sir!

 

[OutFrontFrontier]

No Worries Gr8, I just went through the "20 yrs later back to audio school program" over the last month. I was fine with the stock radio xcept for the low end needed more punch. I went the route in my sig, I know it won't be perfect, but this is appx 6x more $$ than I've spent on sound for any other rig. Trust me, that a lot of rigs too, including an AM/FM/Cass on a riding mower in 1991!!

 

[raine]

You have the same truck I have... I skimmed through this thread so excuse me if I repeat something already said, I'll throw in my $0.02 on your first post:

Good Day!
I've got a 2014 Frontier 4 door, V6, SV trim pkg, no navigation or Rockford Sub but has rear camera & steering wheel controls.
I'm going to start this project by replacing the OEM speakers. I'll eventually replace the HU and add a sufficient amp vying for clean signal instead of the ridiculous claimed gigawatt models. I'd love to be able to keep the HU but it's impossible since the factory radio doesn't have pre-outs or ability to match the OEM preamp to an AM amplifier. I've been looking through Crutchfield's offerings and I'm looking at some JBL seperates. Has anyone tried the 6x9's from JBL for the rear doors? Any other recommendations out there? I'm also going to try to brace the door panels to reduce rattles & reduce some of the IM distortion artifacts. I've been away from car audio for a long time so any input from your experiences good or bad is appreciated!

1. OEM speakers are a 3.5" in the dash, 6x9" in the front doors, 6.5" in the rear doors. The front OEM speakers are wired together to the stock front speaker outputs with just a small filter in-line with the dash speakers - no actual crossover to separate the signal. A set of 6.5" component speakers up front will do wonders compared to the OEM combo, you can go 6x9" component but it's not that big of a difference sound-wise by itself. I'd suggest a decent set of 6.5" with a cheap adaptor plate. Recommendation for these is based on budget (as always), the main "issue" with the OEM locations is how the dash speaker aim up to the windshield instead of at the listening position. You'll still get better sound when you upgrade the factory paper cone speakers, though.

2. Rear speakers, keep it at 6.5", you don't want the rear to be louder anyways because it will pull the 'stage' backward, which you don't want. The plastic mount for the rear requires a cheap 6.5" adaptor since the OEm rear speaker is bonded to a plastic 3-hole thing, when you remove the OEM rear speaker you won't have a way to mount any aftermarket 6.5" without the adaptor. if you need more info on the adaptor I can look it up for you.

3. You can always use line-output adaptors temporarily to get the factory head unit speaker outputs down to line-level for aftermarket amps. The PAC converters are cheap and work just fine until you swap out the head unit for a good one with pre-amp out.

4. The Frontier doors are pretty noisy out of the dealer lot. a layer of Dynamat on the inside of the outer skin is one of the best things I did to my truck, it (combined with another layer of Dynamat on the inner door skin under the interior panel) totally changed the overall sound. Midbass kick is better, less rattling anywhere, less road noise, and your doors close with a solid "thunk" instead of a hollow metal sound.

5. I saw you mentioned "where to put a sub" - the easiest way is to get a prefab enclosure made for under the rear seats. You'll have to remove the storage bins under the rear seats, but it's pretty much the only place to put a sub (there's no room behind the seats). You can get a single 8" or 10" enclosure that sits on the right side of the floor, or a dual 8" or 10" enclosure that spans the entire width underneath the rear seats. Some people I've seen pickup a used factory RF sub that sits under the left side seat, but IMO if you're going to add a sub, might as well do a proper upgrade. Also, select a down-firing enclosure (subs are aimed down to the floor with a vent), the top-firing enclosures just aim the bass into your rear seat and suck up a lot of bass.

6. Steering wheel controls is actually easy if you have a compatible head unit, an Axxess ASWC-1, and the correct wires in place at the harness that sits between the head unit and the vehicle. There are 3 extra wires that give you full steering wheel controls, but most aftermarket adaptor harnesses don't have them in the bag.