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I've been using Royal Purple in my Hardbody since I bought it w/ 28,000 miles (now 69,000). I plan on switching to RP w/ the Frontier. I have 250 miles on it now. Do you guys have any objections as to why I can't switch to RP at 1,000 miles?

Also, this converstion made me think of something. What can the home mechanic do to prove that he/she has been doing regular oil changes, etc? Keep receipts of materials bought, although that doesn't prove that they were actually used? How has everyone else been doing this?
 

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Keeping Track

I wrote it down in my Haynes manual while I was under the extended warranty. Also, I got to know the master mechanic at the Nissan dealer. One time, when the service advisor was giving me some grief over something, the mechanic went up to him and told him that it had been maintained and to basically shut his pie-hole.
 

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SHIFT_Otaku(Assist - Adm)
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PIMPaLiCiOuS said:
I've been using Royal Purple in my Hardbody since I bought it w/ 28,000 miles (now 69,000). I plan on switching to RP w/ the Frontier. I have 250 miles on it now. Do you guys have any objections as to why I can't switch to RP at 1,000 miles?

Also, this converstion made me think of something. What can the home mechanic do to prove that he/she has been doing regular oil changes, etc? Keep receipts of materials bought, although that doesn't prove that they were actually used? How has everyone else been doing this?
I'm waiting until I have 6500 on it...

only because I think that the engine should be fully worn in by then (well it is a nissan probably wont be broken in until it has 100k on it :p ) but yeah....

that and I change my oil really frequently douring the early months... I am only 1k away from my next one at 3k... then I'll get it done at 6500... and switch to synthetic.
 

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A neighbor of mine is the top mechanic at the local Infinity dealer. He "suggested" to wait until 3k to change out the break-in oil. It allows most of the metallic flakes( if any ) to be filtered out. He also suggested most any synth or semi synth would greatly prolong the life of any engine. This type of oil could be changed every 5k without problems.

His suggestion on how to prove oil changes is keep receipts of oil and filter purchase with dates. Another way is to go to a cheap place, I use Precision Tune Up, and get the oil changed and provide the oil and filter. This gives you a receipt from a company that any court would accept.
 

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Sweet. The 3K mile thing sounds pretty good. I guess its better to get all the crap out first, rather than trying to change it earlier and getting more crap in the synthetic stuff.

I guess I'll just save the receipts of the parts. I'd rather do the work myself for the regular maintenance. And a lot of places here are willing to use the fluids I want, but won't let me use the hardware I'd like saying its against their company policy, meaning they'll use the oil I provide, but they'd have to use their own oil filter. I got around this w/ my Hardbody by becoming friends w/ the mechanic doing the actual work.

I could do that, but I'll be paying $12-15 for labor that I could be doing myself for free at home, or even better, on base at the Auto Hobby shop.
 

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u have 2 choice switching to synthetic oil. u can do 5 qts at one time OR add one quart every oil changed instead of 5(syn) 4 regular 1 syn then nxt oil change 3 reg 2 syn and so on till you reach 5 quarts.
 

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ahh yes.......the old school slow blend method. diggin' it. diggin' it. less shock to the system that way--but maybe mine needs a shock or two.
 

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I don't mean to bring up this an arguement again, but you all are pretty ignorant.

fronty2005 said:
second there's NO motor oil that still good after 15,000 miles
AMSOIL and Royal Purple are not your average Synthetic the difference between Mobil 1 and AMSOIL is like the difference between Dino and Mobil 1.... Running an engine over 10,000 miles on Mobil 1 is insanity... doing it with RP or AMSOIL is conservative... if not wasteful.

do some reading, get educated and then come back to the table... I think everyone here owes BudrBean a big old freakin apology...

come on, say it with me:

"I have no clue what I'm talking about, I don't even know the name of the products described so obviously I was maybe a little bit ignorant... I will, in the future, do some research before I lay out my uneducated opinion and mislead people who might read this later"

see that wasn't too hard was it.

The more you know:

Royal Purple

AMSOIL

and obviously, just like with conventional oil, synthetics... hell tylenol at home... the recommended intraval is an EXTREMELY conservative estimate in order to avoid complete idiot not checking there OIL and running the vehicle dry.... just because you don't change it doesn't mean you don't check it.... or change the filter.

But to state that no oil is still good at the extended intravals that people routinely run RP and AMSOIL is not only wrong... it is damaging... a complete noob who doesn't kbnow anything might come here and believe that what you say is true and therefore miss the opportunity to try one of these products based on the uneducated opinions here.

I have used AMSOIL in every engine of every vehicle i have owned for the last 6 years... I change it at 12,000... only to be conservative, I have friends who routinely run 20,000... it is killing me that my truck has Dino in it, but i do believe in running 3,000 break in, then 5,000 with mobil 1 or a similar low end oil... then its on to AMSOIL.
 

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SHIFT_Otaku(Assist - Adm)
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I've said my piece...

I stand firm on what I have said...

and you just do that 12k mile thing between oilchanges...

when the dealer asks when you last oil change was... what are you going to tell them..

"you see... I run this mythical oil called amsoil/Royal Purple, the manufacture of the oil says it is good for 15k..."

they will laugh at you and stamp your warranty on your engine null/void.

I would rally like to see this oil after 12k miles...

I mean you do realise that sludge, grime, and what ever other name you want to give that sicky, gewy, slimy stuff that rests on the bottom of the oil pan, and affixes it self to other non moving parts.

it's composition.. mainly dirt, and carbon.

my point stands... they will then open your engine and show you the "crud" that is everywhere.

It is not like I am as ignorant as you say... I was born into the world of autos, my grandfather was a car collector, my father is the service director at a local benz dealership. whom they call to GERMANY to trouble shoot cars... what he says is biblical... change your oil.
 

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i saw the light a few years ago... honestly after reacting liek these guys did, i looke dinto it.

It's not how rude they were that bothered me, it was the fact that someone who could benefit from the info would read their posts and see you as the only one saying it and incorrectly assume it was false.

just because a bunch of people think the same thing, doesn't make it true.
 

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tc3driver said:
I've said my piece...

I stand firm on what I have said...

and you just do that 12k mile thing between oilchanges...

when the dealer asks when you last oil change was... what are you going to tell them..

"you see... I run this mythical oil called amsoil/Royal Purple, the manufacture of the oil says it is good for 15k..."

they will laugh at you and stamp your warranty on your engine null/void.

I would rally like to see this oil after 12k miles...

I mean you do realise that sludge, grime, and what ever other name you want to give that sicky, gewy, slimy stuff that rests on the bottom of the oil pan, and affixes it self to other non moving parts.

it's composition.. mainly dirt, and carbon.

my point stands... they will then open your engine and show you the "crud" that is everywhere.

It is not like I am as ignorant as you say... I was born into the world of autos, my grandfather was a car collector, my father is the service director at a local benz dealership. whom they call to GERMANY to trouble shoot cars... what he says is biblical... change your oil.
LOL, well you need to take some reading comprehension classes then, I said you check your oil and even change the filter... but to give you an Idea, several people on the Xterras Owner Club tried Royal Purple Diff Fluid and guess what.... their LSD stopped working... not enough friction.

Why would the dealer ask me when my last oil change was... at 12,000 miles my oil looks better than Mobil 1 at 5,000 or Dino at 3,000. with less wear that mobil 1 changed at 3,000... like i said i change it to be safe, i could go a lot longer than 12,000 but the idea of draining 'clean' looking oil is still fascinating to me so i enjoy changing it....
 

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to give you an idea why my oil and engine will look better than yours:

http://tinyurl.com/gdno2

that should about cover that.

PS: yes, i know Semi's go longer between changes to begin with... but um... they only go that long with AMSOIL
 

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synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge
 

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SHIFT_Otaku(Assist - Adm)
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BudrBean said:
synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

I can have about 50 techs call you right now and tell you different.
 

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well "does not" may be an exageration... but low end synthetics like mobil 1 will sludge much quicker than AMSOIL... i have never seen AMSOIL sludge at all... when i refered to draining 'clean' oil i meant it is not burnt like regular synth or dino... it has particles in it, hence my suggestion to chenge the filter, but it is not black and sludgy
 

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AMSOIL and Royal Purple are not your average Synthetic the difference between Mobil 1 and AMSOIL is like the difference between Dino and Mobil 1.... Running an engine over 10,000 miles on Mobil 1 is insanity... doing it with RP or AMSOIL is conservative... if not wasteful.

.[/quote

i think nissan recommended to replace oil and filter at 3750 mile. not 12k

oil is oil my friend. they got burn and get hot, and they will turn it too black.

if your reach 60k on your engine, i'd like to see the oil pan and the valve train on that because u just got 5 or 6 oil change.
 

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tc3driver said:
BudrBean said:
synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

synthetic oil does not sludge

I can have about 50 techs call you right now and tell you different.

well they do!!!
 

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SHIFT_Otaku(Assist - Adm)
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look I am not doing this to be arguementitive...

but going 6000, 10000, 20000 miles between oil changes is not a wise move. no matter what oil you use...

but worse... our engines only hold 5 quarts of oil, that is not much oil... where as a big rig can hold about 55 gallons, and will typicaly go 100k between oil changes...

there are a lot of variables here... and changing the oilfilter and not the oil, is well dangerous... you have survived... I am happy to hear... but all it takes is the wrong person to percieve something wrong... and we have blown engine city... or we create a place where manufacture suggested oilchanges are completely thrown out the window... any time you do that, no matter what oil you use... will void your warranty... that is why this truck will see nothing but the dealership for services... and I'll be doing it every 3000k, even after changing to synthetics...some say why?

cause I care enough about my trucks engine to want to change the oil after 3k....

I am going to do my own reserch on these products, and I'll see how many problems have been attributed to it.

if there are none that I can find... good for you... doesnt mean that I am going to change my religion of oil changes....

how about I put it this way... just because you can jump off a cliff... does that mean you have to?

in other words, just because you can stave off changing your oil... does that mean you have to?

both are deadly IMO...

so go your 12 15 20k with out oil changes... but if something (god forbid) goes wrong... dont ***** about it when they laugh at you for trying to get some warranty work done.
 
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