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Discussion Starter #1
I measured today on my pro4, and there seems to be around 1” difference front to rear. Maybe 1.25. Will the 1.5” spacers be fine? I don’t want to add them and have the front higher than the rear
 

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The geometry of the front suspension almost doubles whatever thickness the spacer is so for a 1" lift you need either 1/2" to 5/8" spacer. I modified a cheap Toyota spacer in my Pro and got it leveled with no issues. Mine was closer to 1 !/4" difference front to rear stock.

This is the kit I used, but unlike the pic, it comes with bolt extensions (10mm I think) to add to factory bolts. The only mod needed was on the urethane the Tacoma bolt spacing is symmetrical and ours isn't so you just punch another hole beside one of the bolt slots. Easy peasy. What can I say, I'm cheap. Lmao.
 

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That is called the”motion ratio”. Ratio where the shock mounts, location of the ball joint!/uniball. About 2 to one.
 

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I measured today on my pro4, and there seems to be around 1” difference front to rear. Maybe 1.25. Will the 1.5” spacers be fine? I don’t want to add them and have the front higher than the rear
Yep, my p4x measures 1.25" higher in back. If you do 1.5" in the front and 1" in the rear it will only be .75" higher in back. (or 2" fron, 1.5" rear).
I would keep it a little higher in the back to compensate for any light loads in the bed.
Actually the ratio of spacer size to lift amount in the front is closer to 1.75:1
 

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Always nice to know , what you are trying to accomplish? I am assuming , a little but if lift for looks.
 

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The 1.5" PRG spacer is a good option. Do it.
You don't run into coil bucket contact issues.
Forget if you are PRO4x. but won't run into shock crush issues with stock bump stop. = MAx travel
You don't need extended top hat studs. Just pull the shock assembly out, bolt on the spacer and bolt the shock back into the truck.
The PRG "1.5" spacer lifts ~1.5" it is about 3/4" thick.
You should still get cam bolts. Adjusted per instructions in the sticky. Then take it to an alignment shop post lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The 1.5" PRG spacer is a good option. Do it.
You don't run into coil bucket contact issues.
Forget if you are PRO4x. but won't run into shock crush issues with stock bump stop. = MAx travel
You don't need extended top hat studs. Just pull the shock assembly out, bolt on the spacer and bolt the shock back into the truck.
The PRG "1.5" spacer lifts ~1.5" it is about 3/4" thick.
You should still get cam bolts. Adjusted per instructions in the sticky. Then take it to an alignment shop post lift.
I’m a little confused, are you saying the pro4x won’t level with the 1.5”?
 

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How much exactly do you need to raise the truck? Take measurement from centerline of wheel to lip of fender.
 

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I’m a little confused, are you saying the pro4x won’t level with the 1.5”?
How the heck did you read that? Read my first sentence again.

If you are questioning if the 1.25 of your measured height difference and the 1.5 of said lift, is going to make an unleveled truck; it does not work out that perfectly numbers wise.

Hard to be perfectly level. Tire to top of fender arch measurment level is not always the same as bubble level on the truck bed rail level. Parking on a slightly pitched surface can easily change your measurement half an inch. Full tank of gas. Fat passenger. Condition of front and rear springs. All can have an effect on "level".

A 1.5 " lift spacer, that measures only about 0.75" is your best bet at level.
 

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Don’t have s condition , Bill!
The only way to level the truck is adjustable coil overs. Other than that, you are just guessing.
Your suggestion may be the best bet for the cost but no guarantee.
 

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How the heck did you read that? Read my first sentence again.

If you are questioning if the 1.25 of your measured height difference and the 1.5 of said lift, is going to make an unleveled truck; it does work out that perfectly numbers wise.

Hard to be perfectly level. Tire to top of fender arch measurment level is not always the same as bubble level on the truck bed rail level. Parking on a slightly pitched surface can easily change your measurement half an inch. Full tank of gas. Fat passenger. Condition of front and rear springs. All can have an effect on "level".

A 1.5 " lift spacer, that measures only about 0.75" is your best bet at level.
I think it was the 3rd sentence that confused him (and me). Might try full sentences instead of Cliff notes for us more "challenged" people. Lmao.
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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My local shop wont install this, the reason : They dont understand how Im putting longer springs on my factory struts... They're telling me the struts wont be long enough to work with these springs?
That's an odd one to hear. We install these without issue on stock struts and Bilstein 5100's. I'm sure they've installed Old Man Emu coils on Bilstein 5100 struts for a Tacoma or 4Runner. Same concept.

The free length difference between the stock spring and ours is less than an inch. I'd recommend calling around. Otherwise, we can pre-assemble on 5100's and ship as loaded struts.
 

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My local shop wont install this, the reason : They dont understand how Im putting longer springs on my factory struts... They're telling me the struts wont be long enough to work with these springs?
Find a better shop that knows how to work on aftermarket suspension and knows what they're doing.
Some shops knowledge level doesn't go beyond OEM. Not saying that's a bad thing, but that type of shop is not what you need for this. You need a shop that deals outside OEM.

Check this for more info about camber bolts (yes, IMO you should always get them if your truck doesn't have them):
 
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