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09 V6 Frontier Cooling issue

2K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  smj999smj 
#1 ·
I have a 2009 Frontier with the VQ40 with 271k miles and I've started to have a cooling issue where if im sitting still the temp will start to climb. While moving I have almost no issues just while im sitting still. In the past year I have replaced Thermostat, Water pump, and fan clutch and it still keeps happening. I have noticed a burning coolant smell coming from the front of the truck near the radiator, which I'm assuming is the issue for the smell but could this be for the over heating issue too?
The over heating problem also only happens when it is hot outside, anywhere north of 70 degrees. Without taking it to a mechanic to diagnose it or have it out of commission for days on end as this is my only vehicle is there anything it could be that can be done in a day?
 
#2 ·
Rad could be plugged internally or too many damaged fins, or too much mud/silt clogged into fins...

Might consider replacing the rad, particularly if you've got an auto trans

Burnt smell could be from a weeping leak at rad or near the block inlet

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
#4 ·
Yupper, these, and the craptastic clinch-locks from the plastic side tanks to the aluminium radiator centre core itself. I detest these plastic monstrosities, when mine goes I'll prob put an all-alumnium unit in, instead.
I had one go big time, in my 1983 Camaro, many decades ago, and back when brass and copper could actually be had on an average man's salary, I had an all brass / copper radiator fabricated and shipped. This was back when you ordered things from catalogs and the backs of magazines, the Internet was ArpaNet & CompuServe and the speed was 300 baud. Those were some fun days.
 
#6 ·
At idle, the exhaust heat load is at a minimum. If the radiator was the culprit, you would also have problems when driving when the heat load is significantly higher. It seems that the de minimus heat load is not being transported to the radiator via the coolant flow. I would suspect the water pump and or the T-Stat. At low revs the water pump may not develop enough head to push through a partially blocked T-Stat. However, your problem pre-dates you changing the water pump and T-Stat.

Coolant is not prone to plugging the internal flow channels. So I suspect a head gasket failure causing a partial fluidic block. Do you have an IR gun? If so, I would measure the temperature of the heads at idle. If one side is much hotter than the other, you have closed in on the root cause.
 
#9 ·
Probably/hopefully not your/an issue, but it's also worth addressing: SMOD. Your '09 Frontier falls into the category of '05-'10 where there 'can be' a catastrophic failure inside the radiator that allows transmission fluid and engine coolant to contaminate each other resulting in an automatic trans failure as a worst case scenario costing thousands to replace or rebuild. Verify that either your original radiator has been replaced, or a "bypass" has been performed - and that you have no contamination by checking coolant and auto trans fluids for any signs of contamination. Search for SMOD here or on the web to learn more. Strawberry Milkshake Of Death = SMOD. Safest bet is to replace your radiator particularly if it's the original factory model.
 
#10 ·
Now I don't know if the radiator has been replaced or the bypass has been done and I am aware that SMOD is an issue in this year of truck but i have been keeping an eye on it and haven't noticed any cross contamination between the coolant and trans fluid. I have been checking every few months since I've had the truck to make sure that doesn't happen. i have also learned that these motors don't react well to non Nissan brand parts and im looking to start with the fan clutch to see if that solves the issue. If I can use the basic auto parts store clutch and not have a problem that would be great as the price difference is over $100 and I would prefer to not break the bank but if I hear a lot of people say that the Nissan branded part is the better option ill go with that one.
 
#14 ·
Many report no issues w/ the bypass. As a peace-of-mind guy and if it was my truck, I'd still replace the radiator because I haul cargo/weight since mine is a work truck. The built-in trans fluid cooler in the rad ALSO helps to warm up your trans fluid in the colder months.
 
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#15 ·
The problem with monitoring the SMOD issue is that if you do notice any contamination of the ATF, it is already too late. Aftermarket radiators can be found at Rockauto for under $100 and they don't have the issue with the trans cooler failure. For me, this is the best route and considering you have an overheating issue, it wouldn't be a bad idea. Your truck will also have an auxiliary air-to-liquid trans fluid cooler in front of the A/C condenser which would be what would cool your fluid if you go the bypass route. The bypass would require a length of approximately 18" of 8MM (5/16") trans cooler hose (cut to size) and some miniature hose clamps. It's not hard to do, but you do sacrifice the added cooling and efficiency of the liquid-to-liquid cooler inside the lower tank of the radiator and, as mentioned, the ability to warm and maintain the ATF temperature, which should operate no lower than 150 degrees F.
There have been a lot of issues with the aftermarket fan clutches for these engines. Most of the time, they stay engaged and you hear the constant "roar" of the fan. Genuine Nissan is the only way to go on this part. Water pumps are pretty reliable on the VQ engines and impeller fan corrosion is almost unheard of with today's coolants. Usually, if they do fail (which is pretty uncommon), they will leak at the seal, which ends up leaking at a spot on the left side of the block over the A/C compressor, or the bearing will fail and you will hear it making a loud scraping or rattling noise within the timing cover. Overheating while idling or driving slow only is typically a sign of a bad fan clutch.
 
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