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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2008 with 99k miles. Started missing while at interstate speed, and I thought it was the transmission initially. Towed to dealer and they changed the plugs, 1 coil, and a fuel line that had been chewed by rodent . Other coils were fine. Drove it 1 mile down the road, and it started shaking and missing again. Returned to dealer... and they next checked all the fuel injectors. All were good.

Unsure what to do next... dealer recommended a compression check or digging through all the wiring for damage.

The shaking and missing only occurs once at speed. and I noticed its when letting off the gas at speed, it shakes when getting back on the gas.

Any insight would be great!
 

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2008 with 99k miles. Started missing while at interstate speed, and I thought it was the transmission initially. Towed to dealer and they changed the plugs, 1 coil, and a fuel line that had been chewed by rodent . Other coils were fine. Drove it 1 mile down the road, and it started shaking and missing again. Returned to dealer... and they next checked all the fuel injectors. All were good.

Unsure what to do next... dealer recommended a compression check or digging through all the wiring for damage.

The shaking and missing only occurs once at speed. and I noticed its when letting off the gas at speed, it shakes when getting back on the gas.

Any insight would be great!
I had the same thing happen to a 2007 Frontier with 125,000 miles. I took it to a shop (not dealership) and they said it was the coil. Have not had any trouble with it since and that was several thousand miles ago.
 

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If you drive it hard while it's missing, it will set a code for the bad cylinder, which will make life easier.
It's a bad plug, coil, injector, or wiring for coil/injector.
Hard driving especially while accelerating will set the misfire code much quicker than normal driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So my diagnostic tool popped a misfire on cylinder 1. That's the same cylinder that the dealer changed the coil on.
I have noticed it won't misfire untill it's warmed up and been running for a while. It's very intermittent and it has to be hot.
 

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So my diagnostic tool popped a misfire on cylinder 1. That's the same cylinder that the dealer changed the coil on.
I have noticed it won't misfire untill it's warmed up and been running for a while. It's very intermittent and it has to be hot.
A single cylinder misfire will not cause your truck to be act as it does. Something more macroscopic like cam or crank sensors that act up is more possible. Or something else that when warm goes out of kilter.

BTW, if you have comprehensive insurance, damages done by rodents are covered.
 

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Sounds like cam shaft sensors to me. They will scare the heck out of you when they go bad. The whole truck bucks almost.
 

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Before doing anything more, I'd do a double dose of injector cleaner - Berrymans B-12 Chemtool Fuel Injector Cleaner - in the gas tank. Clear the code and see if it repeats on #1. Then focus on the wiring for the #1 injector and coil. Berrymans is at Walmart, Autozone, Advance, etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sounds like cam shaft sensors to me. They will scare the heck out of you when they go bad. The whole truck bucks almost.
It does! The whole truck shakes like it's gonna fall apart! I will try this after I do the injector cleaner suggestion.

I appreciate everyone's help so much. Makes me really doubt the capability of my local Nissan dealer!
 

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It does! The whole truck shakes like it's gonna fall apart! I will try this after I do the injector cleaner suggestion.

I appreciate everyone's help so much. Makes me really doubt the capability of my local Nissan dealer!
You can't totally blame the dealer, or other mechanic. Without stored codes, the option is time consuming individual part testing, or replacing likely problem parts. Either gets expensive quick. Or you wait for a code, which you now have. Actually, I'd say that dealer was trying to save you some money.
Some folks want the cheapest way out, others say fix now it at any cost. Your likely candidates are spark plug, coil, injector, right cam sensor, left cam sensor, crank sensor, O2 sensor, wiring damage, plus labor. A dealer would jam you pretty good to replace all of that.
 

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If the shaking is a repetitive symptom, a way to gain more insight is for a tech with a powerful scan tool to drive the truck. Engine parameters are observed during the shake. Spark, injector firing, O2 sensors, cam and crank sensors can be tracked real time. I have to believe one of the engine parameters is going bananas during the incident. Some mechanics do this, not all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If the shaking is a repetitive symptom, a way to gain more insight is for a tech with a powerful scan tool to drive the truck. Engine parameters are observed during the shake. Spark, injector firing, O2 sensors, cam and crank sensors can be tracked real time. I have to believe one of the engine parameters is going bananas during the incident. Some mechanics do this, not all.
Good suggestion. That's how I found the code for cylinder 1 misfire. Driving with my cheap code tool on.

I ordered camshaft sensors and will replace them myself and report back
 

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Good suggestion. That's how I found the code for cylinder 1 misfire. Driving with my cheap code tool on.

I ordered camshaft sensors and will replace them myself and report back
I had a coil die on my bmw, and I couldn't believe the vibration it caused, fairly minor at idle and low speed, but fairly violent at highway speed.
My guess is that under the right conditions, if a certain amount of unburned fuel hits the O2 sensor, it kills the fuel for all 3 cylinders on that bank, for one revolution. Because it sure felt like half the engine was dead. One single coil replacement and good as new.
 

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Good suggestion. That's how I found the code for cylinder 1 misfire. Driving with my cheap code tool on.

I ordered camshaft sensors and will replace them myself and report back
With 99k, those sensors should be swapped out anyway. Change the crank sensor also, so all 3 are new. Be sure to use the same brand for all 3. These Nissan/Hitachi sensors have no where near the durability of a Bosch or Delphi sensor, so it pays to swap them out before you get left stranded. Even if they are not your current problem, it's well spent maintenance money.
 

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Good suggestion. That's how I found the code for cylinder 1 misfire. Driving with my cheap code tool on.

I ordered camshaft sensors and will replace them myself and report back
Nissan parts?

Clint
 
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