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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I parked my truck a while ago when it started to run very rough and was tossing out codes p0300 and randomly one of the other 6 cylinders: p0301, 302, etc.

Today I installed new NGK spark plugs and 6 new coils, the same ones we use in our race car (pictured below just for fun::smile::). After the truck got up to temperature, it gave me another p0300 code and had no power. The check engine light was on, it would idle a bit uneven, and when in gear it would hardly move.

Next I plan to look at the catalytic converters, but I was hoping others could offer suggestions or help on my issues.

NOTE! I also did the automatic transmission cooler bypass today. I installed a new cooler and ran the lines that went to the radiator to this new 2nd cooler. While I don't think this is causing any problems, you never know.

Thanks!

 

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Discussion Starter #3

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I'm sure you've looked but here is some info...

Possible causes
Faulty spark plug (s)
Faulty ignition coil (s)
Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s)
Intake air leak
Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted
Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection
Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection Insufficient cylinders compression Incorrect fuel pressure

https://www.engine-codes.com/p0300_nissan.html
 

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Unrelated but where did you mount your added transmission cooler? I am thinking about doing the same since I bypassed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Unrelated but where did you mount your added transmission cooler? I am thinking about doing the same since I bypassed.
I got lucky, I was able to mount it below the existing one and not use any new hoses. All I had to do was plug the radiator hoses into the new cooler. The bracket holding the primary had 2 holes that lined up with my unit. I'll post pictures in a day or two to show how I installed it. I picked up Hayden Automotive 678 on Amazon. Note, I did use zip ties to secure the bottom. I am comfortable with that because we use the same ones in our race car. I've seen ones where guys just bolt up the top like I did, but that seemed too floppy for me. The zip ties on the bottom really lock it down.
 

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I have read threads were the issue was something got damp after a hard rain or a car wash but fixed itself after whatever it was dried. Does not look like your situation though since you let it sit for awhile after the codes started.
 

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Hello, I parked my truck a while ago when it started to run very rough and was tossing out codes p0300 and randomly one of the other 6 cylinders: p0301, 302, etc.

Today I installed new NGK spark plugs and 6 new coils, the same ones we use in our race car (pictured below just for fun::smile::). After the truck got up to temperature, it gave me another p0300 code and had no power. The check engine light was on, it would idle a bit uneven, and when in gear it would hardly move.

Next I plan to look at the catalytic converters, but I was hoping others could offer suggestions or help on my issues.

NOTE! I also did the automatic transmission cooler bypass today. I installed a new cooler and ran the lines that went to the radiator to this new 2nd cooler. While I don't think this is causing any problems, you never know.

Thanks!

What special about the coils?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
What special about the coils?
Nothing at at all. I've read a few posts where people didn't like aftermarket coils. We've had good luck them in our endurance car, so we ordered the same set from Amazon. They are reviewed well with 4.5 stars. But! A few of the 107 reviews talk about getting a dead coil in the pack or developing over time. So while I think these are ok, I will not discount them as bad. I'll even swap out the coils on our race car to confirm that it is not causing the issue at some point if I'm still having issues.

 

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If you had a faulty ignition coil and drove it enough, chances are the un burned fuel ruined one or more of the catalytic converters. Been there, done that quite recently too.


For those wondering, the coil packs from a 02+ Maxima (and VQ35 Altima) are the same as a VQ40. I too have one from an A33.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update. The truck overheats now within driving it a few minutes. When the truck was at about 210, I shut it down and squeezed both of the radiator hoses trying to push out any air bubbles, but that did not help. The temp would climb both when moving and at idle.

My recent list of changes:

- New passenger side cat, the old one was broke up and floating around.
- New Thermostat
- Newer* coils. I picked up another new set coils. I got the OEM ones this time just to be safe.
- New NGK plugs.
- New Automatic Trans radiator bypass.

Random misfire popped once and went away during the first of my two 5 minute tests. When the truck hit 230 I shut it down.

OK, now I'm officially worried now that I could have a blown head gasket... But I did see one post about how someone was overheating was caused by a bad fan clutch clutch, but how would I tell if that went bad? Because my fan is rotating.

Again, thanks to everyone! You've been awesome.


---------------------------------------
BTW, we had an awesome weekend at Road America. Which is why it's been a while since my last post :)
 

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I did see one post about how someone was overheating was caused by a bad fan clutch clutch, but how would I tell if that went bad? Because my fan is rotating.

Even if the clutch is bad, it will still spin the fan - but at a much slower-than-normal speed.

When the engine is on the verge of overheating, the fan clutch should be fully engaged - which means that it should be making a tight mechanical connection between the fan belt pully and the fan.

You can check this by shutting the engine off, and attempting to spin the fan blades by hand - If you can spin them without much difficulty, the clutch isn't doing its job. OTOH, if you can barely spin them at all, the clutch is probably OK.

Also, when the fan clutch is fully engaged, you'll hear the fan roar loudly (like it does for a few seconds when you first start the engine after it has been sitting overnight).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Even if the clutch is bad, it will still spin the fan - but at a much slower-than-normal speed.

When the engine is on the verge of overheating, the fan clutch should be fully engaged - which means that it should be making a tight mechanical connection between the fan belt pully and the fan.

You can check this by shutting the engine off, and attempting to spin the fan blades by hand - If you can spin them without much difficulty, the clutch isn't doing its job. OTOH, if you can barely spin them at all, the clutch is probably OK.

Also, when the fan clutch is fully engaged, you'll hear the fan roar loudly (like it does for a few seconds when you first start the engine after it has been sitting overnight).
Thanks Skibane! I checked the fan this morning. I can reach in with my thumb and spin it about half a turn with a flick, but that is all. It feels like it has some resistance when I tried this and it's not spinning very far when I gave it a few tries. I scheduled an appointment at a shop to see if they can confirm my head gasket issue, or find another reason why it might be overheating. While I hope that isn't the problem, I'm not optimistic.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Hey everyone, checking in with an update. So I had 2 issues pop up at the same time. The overheating was due to a clogged radiator + bad thermostat. On top of that, the rock auto replacement thermostat was bad from the get go. I ended up replacing water pump as well while tracking that back down.

Now we're back down to 1 issue, I am still getting E0300, Random miss fire. I have all new plugs and Factory Hitachi coils, new PCV valve, and tonight I swapped out the MAF sensor with a new one, I went a few but the truck didn't drive any better. (I put the original one back in so I can return the new one). I also installed a new Cadillac converter on the passenger side.

No the truck has no power on acceleration. It will go fine if I am being very gentle on the throttle, but as soon as I give it a some extra gas you can hear the motor sound boggy or a bit sick. And that is now when I see the miss fire code.

Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I ended up going to autozone because I got the same code that said the MAF sensor was bad. So that was 2 bad parts from Rock Auto!?

I purchased a new sensor and installed it in the parking lot at a Nissan dealer. While it drives better, I still have an issue. The engine really struggles to get above 50mph? I can get upto 65mph, but takes a while. My guess now would be exhaust sensors? What do you guys think?
 

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Just a wild guess - but has the fuel filter ever been replaced?
 

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The Fuel filter is located inside the fuel tank, right next to the fuel pump.

You may want to replace that whole unit while you have the tank dropped. A bad fuel pump could also potentially be the problem.
 

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The fuel filter is not meant to be serviced under normal circumstances. Rather than go through all that work as a "guess," it would make more sense to check the fuel pump pressure. If the fuel pressure is below spec, then you know you have an issue inside of the fuel tank, as the pump, filter and pressure regulator are all part of the fuel pump module. If the fuel pressure is in spec, then you know that there's no sense in doing anything with the fuel pump module or any of its individual parts, like the filter. If I remember correctly, the fuel pressure spec is 50 psi.
 
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