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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The other day I was playing in the dirt, climbing a small hill. I was slipping sideways so I rolled back down the hill a little. When I tried to go forward again, the moter just reved up, you could feel just the slightest forward strain but nothing. I went into 4 hi, low, 2wd. Let it sit. (It was not hot) I could go in reverse no problem so I backed out of the woods, back to paved roads. In 2wd in drive on the blacktop, the moter revs to 2800 or so and it starts to slowly move. When it gets going fast enough to get out of first and into 2nd and beyond it seems to lock up fine and drive normally, but, when you stop and have to start again you sit there reving it up hoping it will move.
Anyone know what this is...... Blown up tranny?
Thanks!
 

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its probably the tranny's fail safe mode, it puts it into 4th gear when it sees a problem so that you can still make it to a shop. try resetting and see if it continues, and if it does go to the dealer so they can read the tcu and see whats up. you can't do it with a normal scanner
 

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its probably the tranny's fail safe mode, it puts it into 4th gear when it sees a problem so that you can still make it to a shop. try resetting and see if it continues, and if it does go to the dealer so they can read the tcu and see whats up. you can't do it with a normal scanner

^^x2

Have you done the bypass yet? looked at rad fulid?
 

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Yes, reset the ECU. ECU controls the transmission, ECU/TCM = same module.

Why do I know this?.. had major transmission issues that made no sense, nissan threw a new transmission in my truck without consulting me first, they didn't even think to change the ECU, .. new transmission still didn't work, told them to change the ECU, .. wah la, PERRRFECT. Still tried to charge me for a new transmission. Stupid effers they are.


Remove ground cable from battery, touch ground cable to the POS battery terminal to discharge the system, maybe wait a good few minutes for "just in case" measure. Hook er' back up, see what happens.
 

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Yes, reset the ECU. ECU controls the transmission, ECU/TCM = same module.

Why do I know this?.. had major transmission issues that made no sense, nissan threw a new transmission in my truck without consulting me first, they didn't even think to change the ECU, .. new transmission still didn't work, told them to change the ECU, .. wah la, PERRRFECT. Still tried to charge me for a new transmission. Stupid effers they are.


Remove ground cable from battery, touch ground cable to the POS battery terminal to discharge the system, maybe wait a good few minutes for "just in case" measure. Hook er' back up, see what happens.
I don't think you want to touch the neg cable to the pos battery post. I think you want to touch pos and neg cables together AFTER they're both removed from the battery. Might be why you needed an ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks

Thanks for the help. I will reset the ecu and let you know what happens. What will trip it into safe mode? Is it F'ed up already?
Thanks
 

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I think you want to touch pos and neg cables together AFTER they're both removed from the battery. Might be why you needed an ECU.
WRONG

Unplugging the ground will absolutely remove the battery's current from being a part of the circuit what so ever. Period. Removing the positive AND negative and then touching the two terminal cables together will result in the exact same reset/capacitor discharge. If only one terminal is connected to the battery, there is absolutely no possible way to create a short in the system with the battery's current.
 

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WRONG

Unplugging the ground will absolutely remove the battery's current from being a part of the circuit what so ever. Period. Removing the positive AND negative and then touching the two terminal cables together will result in the exact same reset/capacitor discharge. If only one terminal is connected to the battery, there is absolutely no possible way to create a short in the system with the battery's current.
That's your opinion, and your entitled to it.
 

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That's your opinion, and your entitled to it.
Well, I suppose it is an opinion. I'm just thinking logically, makes 100% sense in my head as anyone else with a bit of electrical knowledge may agree. All in all, ... The safe measure would be to remove both terminals and touch them together, but its at your own risk to discharge the system in any way you'd like.

This has never caused me any problems in my cases what so ever when it comes to ECU reset, I've never removed both terminals to do so, my ECU problem in the beginning was caused by a badly corroded ground on the engine ground harness on the front right top of the engine for the ignition system.
 

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Well, I suppose it is an opinion. I'm just thinking logically, makes 100% sense in my head as anyone else with a bit of electrical knowledge may agree. All in all, ... The safe measure would be to remove both terminals and touch them together, but its at your own risk to discharge the system in any way you'd like.

This has never caused me any problems in my cases what so ever when it comes to ECU reset, I've never removed both terminals to do so, my ECU problem in the beginning was caused by a badly corroded ground on the engine ground harness on the front right top of the engine for the ignition system.
All I'm trying to say Steve, is that by removing BOTH cables and then touching them together, IS the safest way. The other way is to just leave the ground disconnected for at least 10 minutes. But no sweat guy, we're not here to rag on each other.
 

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The safest way is to disconnect the ground and press the brake for a couple of seconds. Pressing the brake puts a low resistance (brake light filaments) across any remaining capacitance in the system.
 

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The safest way is to disconnect the ground and press the brake for a couple of seconds. Pressing the brake puts a low resistance (brake light filaments) across any remaining capacitance in the system.
It is a matter of preference, you could also turn on the headlights, toot the horn, play the radio, turn on the wipers etc, etc, etc... The issue is to SAFELY draw down the ECM power, of which your method is one. So long as the means justifies the end. Putting a neg battery cable to a pos battery cable, that is still hooked up to the pos battery post, is asking for trouble.
 

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It is a matter of preference, you could also turn on the headlights, toot the horn, play the radio, turn on the wipers etc, etc, etc... The issue is to SAFELY draw down the ECM power, of which your method is one. So long as the means justifies the end. Putting a neg battery cable to a pos battery cable, that is still hooked up to the pos battery post, is asking for trouble.
Maybe, maybe not. I think the brake lights are lit via a simple switch, while the headlights are usually turned on via a relay. Same for the horn and wipers. Keep in mind, this is for most vehicles. Radios, which don't really have a "real switch" are all electronic, meaning no hard connections either. So with that all in mind, the brakes seem like a sound power bleeder! :)
 

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You guys are forgetting that you have to spin around 3 times... yell out your name twice and then stroke the left fender saying "good girl". lol
 

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Maybe, maybe not. I think the brake lights are lit via a simple switch, while the headlights are usually turned on via a relay. Same for the horn and wipers. Keep in mind, this is for most vehicles. Radios, which don't really have a "real switch" are all electronic, meaning no hard connections either. So with that all in mind, the brakes seem like a sound power bleeder! :)
The point is, a draw is a draw, regardless of switches, relays. It still takes electricity to work them. Your only draining a capacitor, not an 8D battery. Geeeze!
 

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You guys are forgetting that you have to spin around 3 times... yell out your name twice and then stroke the left fender saying "good girl". lol
thanks, always good to lighten the mood :nana::laugh:
 

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Transmission Slipping

The first thing I would do is remove the radiator cap. It should be clean, no white-like substance or what others refer to as a strawberry milkshake residue indicating the mixing of ATF and anti-freeze. Next, reset the ECU with your method of preference. If this doesn't diagnose or fix your problem, check your ATF level. If its hesitating or shifting late, maybe a pressure control solenoid.
 
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