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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I'm leveling my truck next weekend and taking it to ge aligned the day after. I have 2005 CC LE 4x4, i'm upgrading to Nismo coliovers w/ PRG spacers, new bump stops and adjustable cam bolts up front; and lift blocks in the rear w/ Nismo rear shocks.
My alignment mechanic asked me (since i'm upgrading suspension) what alignment specs should he use??? I think that he shoud use Nismo specs, any comments on that???

Thank you in advance,

Nick
 

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Hello,

I'm leveling my truck next weekend and taking it to ge aligned the day after. I have 2005 CC LE 4x4, i'm upgrading to Nismo coliovers w/ PRG spacers, new bump stops and adjustable cam bolts up front; and lift blocks in the rear w/ Nismo rear shocks.
My alignment mechanic asked me (since i'm upgrading suspension) what alignment specs should he use??? I think that he shoud use Nismo specs, any comments on that???

Thank you in advance,

Nick
First off, get another mechanic to do the alignment... he should know that! Secondly, the specs for all 05 v6 4x4's are the same so just tell him to use that. The lift will change the camber/ caster, but thats why you have the cam bolts; so that you can re-align it to factory specs. 2005 model trucks should have cambolts already installed from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thank you for prompt reply... my truck did not come with cam bolts for some unknown reason while everyone is telling me that it should have...
 

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I think it was just the first half of the year that had cam bolts. Nissan changed some things mid-year. While I do have cam bolts my NISMO does not have chrome handles or mirrors, just the black SE ones.
 

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If Youre Gonna Fit Larger Tires Like 285's You Need To Have The Cam Bolts In The Rear Of The Front Control Arm Both Pointing At The Oil Pan. The Front Cam Bolts Should Both Point Straight Out To The Sides(opposite The Rears) This Moves The Lower Ball Joints Forward Not Only Giving You More Room To Keep The Tires From Rubbing, But Also Increases Castor Which Make The Truck Want To Drive Straighter With Less Wandering
 

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^^That only works on certain suspension setups. When I tried that on mine, I had -1.5* of camber and 6.6* of caster. I had to adjust them by spec instead of eye-balling it.
 

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YES BEN, BUT IN MANY CASES IT WORKS GREAT, YES IVE ADJUSTED A FEW FROM THIS. THE POINT IM MAKING ON THIS IS ITS A TRADE OFF THAT FOR MANY WORKS FINE. THE PROBLEM IS WHEN YOU HAVE TECHS THAT REALLY DONT KNOW WHAT THEYRE DOING WHEN THEY ALIGN SOMETHING, AND WHAT CHANGES CAN BE DONE TO AFFECT WHAT YOU WANT. AND YES i MANY TIMES HAVE TO ALIGN ALL TYPES OF VEHICLES OUT OF SPEC TO GET THEM TO STOP WEARING TIRES ETC..AND NO IM NOT TALKING OLD WORNOUT SUSPENSIONS(ALTHOUGH YES SOMETIMES THOSE TOO) YOU CAN BRING THE CAMBER CLOSEST TO "0" NEGATIVE BY HAVING ALL 4 BOLTS POINTING STRAIGHT OUT. BUT THIS REDUCES + CASTER AND WHILE NOT GIVE ENOUGH ROOM WITHOUT RUBBING ON TURNS. SO YOU JUST HAVE TO KNOW WHAT TRADEOFF YOU WANT..LITTLE GREEN NUMBERS OR SUSPENSION THAT DOES THE MOST FOR YOU. I HAD PEOPLE HERE THAT AFTER SOME WHEELING I HAD TO TOTALLY CHANGE THEIR ALIGNMENT FROM WHAT IT WAS TO GET BACK TO BEFORE (TWEEKED) VISUALLY, AND SPECS SETTINGS FOR MINE AND OTHERS HAVE ALOT OF POSITIVE CAMBER BUT NO ABNORMAL TIRE WEAR, CAUSE I ALSO PAY MORE ATTENTION TO TOE AND SUSPENSION DEFLECTION THAT CHANGES TOE. THIS IS WHAT WEARS TIRES MORE THAN ANYTHING ELSE. CAMBER REALLY HAS TO APPROACH AT LEAST 2 DEGREES+/- TO AFFECT TIRE WEAR FROM CAMBER. AND CASTER IS NOT A WEAR ANGLE(BEN ALL THIS DOESNT APPLY TO YOU, JUST INFO TO OTHERS) BUT AS HAD BEEN SAID IF THE OP DOENT KNOW WHAT TO ALIGN TOO, AND THE TECH IS ASKING (IF HE DOESNT KNOW) THEN THERE'S A PROBLEM WAITING TO HAPPEN
 
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