Adding an Accessory Wire?

[DeathByStereo]

Recently Ive started adding a lot of electronics to my truck and plan on wiring in some lights, CB, radio accessories that require full time power and other crap in the next few months... currently I have a 10Ga power wire leading from the battery to my amp (small gauge i know but it came with the amp/sub fused of course)...

now my question is... for these components... how do I add a hot power wire that is on all the time to the interior cab of my truck... as well as an accessory wire that turns on when the key is in ACC mode?

thanks in advance peoples!

and if this has been covered, shame on me... I did a quick search and don't recall anyone ever posting about it...

[Devius1]

your amperage needs would help...

You can easily run a relay trip from the key on acc. plug in the dash/console.

[DeathByStereo]

yeah, well I understand that, i'm talking about several different accessories... and I don't have them all right now... i'm just trying to figure out if maybe i can run about power wire into the cab that i can tap in to with several different accessories and i understand that it's going to need to be fused but i can always change fuses depending on what accessories I tap into it...

[Inyourface1650]

Originally Posted by DeathByStereo

but i can always change fuses depending on what accessories I tap into it...

Your assuming that the wiring all the way back to the fuse will be able to handle the additional load. Never assume that.

Probably the easiest switched source to tap into would be the upper 12V socket. But I would only use that to fire a relay. Run a signal wire from the 12V socket back to a box in the engine compartment with a 6 blade fuse block (autozone $6) and a relay (autozone $3) to supply power to the fuse block directly from the battery. you can fuse the fuse block, but its probably overkil lol. then run the your always on power directly from the battery.

[ToddG]

Originally Posted by Inyourface1650

Your assuming that the wiring all the way back to the fuse will be able to handle the additional load. Never assume that.

Probably the easiest switched source to tap into would be the upper 12V socket. But I would only use that to fire a relay. Run a signal wire from the 12V socket back to a box in the engine compartment with a 6 blade fuse block (autozone $6) and a relay (autozone $3) to supply power to the fuse block directly from the battery. you can fuse the fuse block, but its probably overkil lol. then run the your always on power directly from the battery.

x2 on that recommendation. As soon as you start tapping into otherwise used power leads in a vehicle trouble starts.
Better to dedicate individual leads to individual needs.

[Devius1]

still unclear on what your load needs are...
as said before swappin' fuses isn't a good thing. i.e. if you run a block w/4 fuses @ 20 amps from a battery lead rated @ 60-30amps. (longer lead = lower rating) do the math.

Aux. power sockets could run CB, scanner, Q-beam, coffee maker etc. and could be hardwired. (if the truck has aux. audio input the plug is taped to the harness in back) additional power can be had from the trailer brake controller harness. (if you have 1 and not using it) Factory fused and load rated sources.

[DeathByStereo]

Originally Posted by Inyourface1650

Your assuming that the wiring all the way back to the fuse will be able to handle the additional load. Never assume that.

Probably the easiest switched source to tap into would be the upper 12V socket. But I would only use that to fire a relay. Run a signal wire from the 12V socket back to a box in the engine compartment with a 6 blade fuse block (autozone $6) and a relay (autozone $3) to supply power to the fuse block directly from the battery. you can fuse the fuse block, but its probably overkil lol. then run the your always on power directly from the battery.

thanks for all the info! this is probably what i'm going to do... I don't have much wiring experience, especially in DC... I picked up a little book on wiring the other day at home depot and have learned a lot about amps, watts, wire size selection, fusing, wiring motors etc etc...

I like your idea of using a relay off the top plug because it only comes on when the key is turned... I think this is the route i'm going to go... I think this solution will be a lot easier to troubleshoot if I have problems (i.e. losing power to an accessory) and will be pretty safe.

P.S. I know I sound like a total danger to myself, however i'm always really good about soldering and I liquid tape/electric tape the hell out of everything and am really anal about my wires being managed very neatly...

P.S.S. this is a short list of coming accessories...
1. CB (cobra 75)
2. Interior accessory lights (L.E.D's)
3. 2-3 Hella lights on front bumper (in the distant future)
4. "puddle" lights along the cab of my truck (activated by a relay attached to cargo light)

[Devius1]

^ your avg. $5 SPST relay is max. rated @ 30/40amps. I wouldn't run max. load on one tho'.


Good Luck on the project!

[05cc4x4]

You can run a larger gauge wire from the battery into the cab and use an aftermarket fuse block to distribute power to you stuff. Most auto stores sell fuse blocks with a relay built in that you can hook up to an accessory line to trip the relay and turn enable the fuse block. Should be easy. You could do a seperate fuse block along with that for the stuff you want to have 12v to with the truck off.

[zoomzoom]

Run a lower gauge fused wire into the cab (driver footwell) to a fused distribution block inside. I would think it's easier and cleaner to run one wire into the cab rather than several from the block. For the ignition/acc lead, there's one from the ignition harness located at the driver footwell also which is much easier to tap than dismantling the front dash to access the power outlet wire.

edit** ^^beat me to it while i was typing....