well, i spent the morning trying to put on my new toys and ran into a snag... the tie rod nut just wont budge... i soaked it with liquid wrench a couple of times over the course of an hour and ended up rounding the nut a little... uhgg.... so I just ordered a 24mm flare nut crows foot hoping that will do the trick, or at least prevent me from rounding it any further...
i also figured out that i have no idea on how to take apart the axle shafts.
if anyone has any advise i'd very much appreciate it.
__________________ 2007 NISMO KC 6 speed 4x4 black PERFORMANCE : Nismo CAI & Headers, Custom cat back dual exhaust, WRP CP PSP IMS TBS, Stillen grounding kit, Brake Pros rotors & brake pads, JWT flywheel & clutch, Optima yellow top, Superchips tuned. SUSPENSION : Titan swap with PRG UCA, King COs in the front, King shocks in the rear, Deaver 10 pack. EXTERIOR : Shrockworks front bumper & rock sliders & radiator / rear diff skids, 2 Hella 4000's, Calmini rear bumper, Tiregate Pre Runner series, LE roof rack, American Outlaw shotguns, 33x12.5 Nitto mud grapplers. INTERIOR : Nismo shift knob, Frontier seat covers, Alpine ipod head unit, all Alpine speakers & tweeters, Navigation unit.
umm, my advice would be get ready for the driver side rear UCA bolt. its gonna be a pain in the ***. Most guys order an extra bolt and just cut that on off. the problem is when u try to remove it u run into the steering shaft. I removed my steering shaft to remove the bolt because i was allready half way into the project and couldnt wait.
well, i spent the morning trying to put on my new toys and ran into a snag... the tie rod nut just wont budge... i soaked it with liquid wrench a couple of times over the course of an hour and ended up rounding the nut a little... uhgg.... so I just ordered a 24mm flare nut crows foot hoping that will do the trick, or at least prevent me from rounding it any further...
Get a Propane Torch and heat up the nut. That should help you loosen the nut.
2005 NISMO CC 4X4-ICON 2.5 coilovers,AC 3 leaf pack,Bilstein shocks, 3" Body lift, Titan front differential, Pathfinder half shafts, 305/70R16, American Outlaw Colt wheels, KMA rear bumper, Black Widow Off Road hi-lift mount, Home made utilitrac spare tire mount, Airflow snorkel, Shrockworks sliders and skids Nissan Offroad Association of the Southeast
The Following User Says Thank You to mike For This Useful Post:
Get a Propane Torch and heat up the nut. That should help you loosen the nut.
Here is what one looks like.
x2, I just did mine and had the exact same problem as you. I kept the torch on it for at least a couple of minutes then threw the wrench on it and hit it with a hammer, worked like a charm.
As for the axles, this is how we did mine. ( Some people may disagree with my method) After the steering knuckle is out of the way, I gave the axle a good yank and it came out of the diff no problem. From here it helps to have a good size CLEAN work bench to work on, along with a bunch of rags or paper towel, preferably lint free. Also having a vise will help a ton.
The first things we removed were the boot bands iirc. Then we slid the boot off the diff side of the axle and wiped off the grease in the CV housing as much as possible. You should be able to see a stopper ring holding things in there, just use a small flat head to pry it out. The axle should slide out of the housing at this point, but be careful not to drop the bearings here. There will be a snap ring holding the bearing assembly to the axle here, again iirc, use snap ring pliers to remove this. Only open as much as you need to remove the rings though, I made the mistake of opening it too wide and we needed to crimp it down again. Once the outer race and bearings are out, we used a hammer and carefully tapped the inner race off the axle shaft. I don't know if thats the proper way but it worked for me. Time will tell if I screwed something up in there
We had some problems with the wheel side because I don't have a work bench or a vise or a slide pull hammer. The proper way I believe is to mount the shaft in a vise and attach the slide pull hammer to the joint sub-assembly side. Supposedly a few whacks should take it off. The way we did it was to mount it in a vise at a buddies shop and hit the edge of the housing with a hammer, being careful not to hit the guts. That did the trick. All thats left at this point is the little circlip at the end of the axle, again, just use a small flathead to pry off. Install is more or less the reverse. Make sure to buy proper CV grease, as I recently found out multi-purpose grease will not do.
When re-installing the boots try to make sure the contact point between boot and axle is as grease-free as possible so that the boot doesn't slide around later. Also you probably didn't get the inner boot clamps with the kit so you'll want to source those out before you start this job. I had a hell of a time finding hose clamps that were that small in the width that I needed. I tried to use some normal hose clamps but they didn't sit well in the channels of the boots and when I tightened them, they twisted a bit so I wasn't comfortable using them. After a lot of phone calls, I finally found the ones I needed and they fit perfectly. I think its worthwhile for the peace of mind.
Lets see, what else..... oh, when I did my brake lines, I found that I had to bend the (is it banjo fitting?) right by the calipers because with the extra slack in the lines, they were rubbing against the tires. btw are you lifted in any way right now because the Kings the way they are will put you in at the stock ride height. I turned the collar down on mine about 9-10 turns for a roughly 2.5 inch lift. Do this before you install the coilovers and save yourself the headache. Again it helps to have a vise here. I did have a bit of a problem with cranking down the spring because the end of the spring at the top seemed to catch on the split in the collar. I ended up with 10 turns on the drivers side and 8.5 turns on the passenger side. Worked out ok for me because my drivers side is lower for some reason anyways. There might be a slight difference in spring tension between the two sides now but I hope its a negligible difference that won't affect anything. One last thing, my buddies who work in the aviation industry said that King made a poor choice in using steel hardware onto aluminum for their top shock mount. Apparently they can corrode badly and may not come out later so a little anti-seize may help. That's about all I can think of right now. Hope this helps, I learned it all as I went
1 more thing, you may want to cancel that order for the 24mm wrench. We used one before the heating method and all it did was flex and slip. Somebody skinned their knuckles on that one and it wasn't me...thank god. And if anyone disagrees with anything I mentioned please feel free to correct me because like I said, it was learn as you go for me.
Last edited by bobblehead : 07-03-2009 at 08:40 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to bobblehead For This Useful Post:
well, this is where i'm at so far... i don't have a bench or a vice so i'm gonna just try to wing it... i didn't know this was going to be this involved. ha. hope i can get some time off work to knock it out.
__________________ 2007 NISMO KC 6 speed 4x4 black PERFORMANCE : Nismo CAI & Headers, Custom cat back dual exhaust, WRP CP PSP IMS TBS, Stillen grounding kit, Brake Pros rotors & brake pads, JWT flywheel & clutch, Optima yellow top, Superchips tuned. SUSPENSION : Titan swap with PRG UCA, King COs in the front, King shocks in the rear, Deaver 10 pack. EXTERIOR : Shrockworks front bumper & rock sliders & radiator / rear diff skids, 2 Hella 4000's, Calmini rear bumper, Tiregate Pre Runner series, LE roof rack, American Outlaw shotguns, 33x12.5 Nitto mud grapplers. INTERIOR : Nismo shift knob, Frontier seat covers, Alpine ipod head unit, all Alpine speakers & tweeters, Navigation unit.
Yuki, is that assembly just hanging there by the UCA, steering knuckle bolt? With things swiveling around, things might be quite tough. It might still be worth it to shove the axle back into the diff and take off the axle nut so that the whole axle will be in your hands. Even with no bench, working on the floor with some cardboard or something would be easier, I think. Good luck, hope everything works out well.
well... i'm stuck again, i took off the rotor and caliper to get at the axle nut and cant seem to get it off. i tried PB blaster and heating it up... just wont budge. the socket i'm using is a standard depth 12 point so i was trying very hard to not round off the nut... placed an order in with sears to get a 6 point deep impact socket... hopefully all it is is that i'm not putting enough weight into it.
doesn't look like this will be done anytime soon, and my truck will be sitting on jacks until august when i get back from flight deck certifications...
__________________ 2007 NISMO KC 6 speed 4x4 black PERFORMANCE : Nismo CAI & Headers, Custom cat back dual exhaust, WRP CP PSP IMS TBS, Stillen grounding kit, Brake Pros rotors & brake pads, JWT flywheel & clutch, Optima yellow top, Superchips tuned. SUSPENSION : Titan swap with PRG UCA, King COs in the front, King shocks in the rear, Deaver 10 pack. EXTERIOR : Shrockworks front bumper & rock sliders & radiator / rear diff skids, 2 Hella 4000's, Calmini rear bumper, Tiregate Pre Runner series, LE roof rack, American Outlaw shotguns, 33x12.5 Nitto mud grapplers. INTERIOR : Nismo shift knob, Frontier seat covers, Alpine ipod head unit, all Alpine speakers & tweeters, Navigation unit.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
