If your transmission were in limp mode it would lock you in second gear. Accelerating from a stop would be kind of sluggish, but you should know if this is what happened because it would never shift gears. No matter what forward position your selector is in you would always be in 2nd, and reverse wouldn't work.
That's is just about what it is like, except that Reverse works just fine as far as I know. But I guess I haven't reversed after I've driven forward in limp mode.
It feels like I'm driving a manual transmission and taking off from 2nd or 3rd gear. And you mentioned that it went out of "limp mode" after you shut it off for a while? I feel like that may be what is happening to me, but it goes right back in to it. When I start up my truck, the first takeoff forward starts out just fine, then a thump (I feel and hear) and the sluggish acceleration. Then it never seems to shift.
I think the P1757 and P1759 codes might be the key to this specific issue. I came across someone else who was throwing those codes and the little bit that I've read sounds similar, I just need to dig in a little deeper.
Also, the 1757 and 1759 codes refer to "front brake solenoid," but it actually has nothing to do with the brakes. After some research, it's a solenoid that is in the transmission. From what I hear, the valve body has to be replaced, which I know nothing about. Everyone says it's not cheap though.
And with the battery issue, I got a new battery just about a year ago, and have absolutely no problem with starting or any electrical issues. Also, no shudder at all or any of the other symptoms of the cross-contamination that I can tell. And from what I read, it would be pretty obvious.
I'm afraid I'm going to have to replace the valve body in the transmission and the cats since it's throwing the P0420 code, and that is not gonna be cheap at all. Especially around the holidays. Had I known this was coming up, I would have put off the new shocks and struts for another couple months.
Research is good, and it sounds like you are probably at the point where you need to get it checked out. A valve body is not something you change out unless you know that is the problem. If you have the tranny dropped and fully inspected, don't be supprised if the shop suggests you spend even more and have things like the clutch packs replaced as well.
__________________ 2012 Pro-4x CC
Mods: Bilstein 5100/OME coils, Shackles/Bilstein 5125, Hefty Sliders, BFG 255/85r16 KM2's, Tinted windows, LEDs (interior, cargo, backup), Amsoil Ea filter
Pipe Dream: Custom bumpers, Calmini/Titan swap with full length coilovers, Alcan rear springs
The Following User Says Thank You to 05Fronty4x For This Useful Post:
Yea, I think that is the plan for today. If they suggest replacing the clutch packs, is it worth it while they're in there? Is there anything else that would or would not be worth doing at the same time?
It depends on how much you trust the shop you take it to. Some shops are going to try and squeeze every bit of work they can get, while an honest shop will only change the things necessary. You'll have to decide if you want to basically rebuilt the entire thing or not. If they tell you your clutchs are completely worn out, ask to take a look and have them explain why. I would say that with 106K miles it wouldn't be a bad idea to change them while the tranny is apart unless they still look flawless somehow. At that point reassembly will consist of brand new ATF, and sometimes a complete fluid change does not agree with worn out clutches - another reason to maybe have them changed.
If you have a reputible shop close by that you can trust, it should be a fairly painless process (except for the cost). I'll keep my fingers crossed that your tranny is fine, and that there is some other sort of less expensive funkiness going on.
__________________ 2012 Pro-4x CC
Mods: Bilstein 5100/OME coils, Shackles/Bilstein 5125, Hefty Sliders, BFG 255/85r16 KM2's, Tinted windows, LEDs (interior, cargo, backup), Amsoil Ea filter
Pipe Dream: Custom bumpers, Calmini/Titan swap with full length coilovers, Alcan rear springs
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 05Fronty4x For This Useful Post:
Well, finally got it into the shop today. If it's in your power, try to never have an issue the week before a major holiday. Just got the call with the worst news possible. They say it's radiator/transmission contamination. New tranny and new radiator equals a grand total of..... $5,500. OUCH!
$5500? Is it too late to shop around? I wouldn't be afraid of a used transmission. Most reputable recyclers offer a warranty. New radiators aren't too expensive thanks to aftermarket, so don't skimp there. I'd be hard pressed to sink that kind of dough into an 05 with 100K already.
$5500? Is it too late to shop around? I wouldn't be afraid of a used transmission. Most reputable recyclers offer a warranty. New radiators aren't too expensive thanks to aftermarket, so don't skimp there. I'd be hard pressed to sink that kind of dough into an 05 with 100K already.
+1 to this. $5500 is almost half the book value on your truck. Unless you're in love with it and never plan to get rid of it I'd seek other options. Check into a used tranny as Suzokie mentioned or even have it rebuilt if that's an option.
__________________
2005 Nissan Frontier SE Crew Cab 4x4
I agree with you guys. It's not too late, as I have a very hard time sinking that much money into this truck at a moment's notice. I contacted another shop, who told me probably between $3500 - $4k. I've got it at a third shop getting diagnosed for a second opinion right now. And the $5500 was a rebuild, including parts, labor, warranty, and the radiator.
I have also considered buying a used tranny from a salvage yard, and the ones I've seen look to be running $2000 - $2500. Do any of you guys have any idea about how much it would cost in labor to just do a straight switch? I need to figure out if it would be worth it. Also, would I have a hard time finding a shop that would do that?
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