Mobil 1 0W40 is an excellent oil, It is used in almost every mercedes engine including the AMG's. It outperforms 5w30 in cold and hot. I run it in all my vehicles from 4 to 8 cylinder. I also run it in my nissan. From what I learned through mercedes it contains higher level of zinc and phosphorus than the conventional weight mobil 1 oils which help protect your valvetrain.
Mobil 1 0w-40 is overall a much better oil. It does jump into a group 4 level versus the group 3 from the factory recommended 5w-30.
Even though the 0w-40 is better oil in some areas, it will degrade your catalytic converters that much faster ... unless you can get some catch can system.
If it were me, I'd just stick with the factory oil and save your catalytic converters.
Nissan:
API Certification Mark*1
API grade SL, Energy Conserving*1
ILSAC grade GF-III*1
*1 - SAE 5W-30 viscosity oil is preferred for all temperatures. SAE
10W-30 and 10W-40 viscosity oil may be used if the ambient
temperature is above -18°C (0°F).
Use of 5W-30 viscosity oil will increase fuel economy.
Mobil:
Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic motor oil meets or exceeds the requirements of: API SN/SM/SL/SJ
ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4
*Has excellent low temperature capabilities for rapid engine protection at start-up
It meets the API SL requirement.
Looks like I'm G2G!
The 0W should be an excellent choice for cold statups since it doesn't thicken at cold temps. The coldest it gets here in Oregon (as of recent) has been 30*F. Waaay above the -20*F 5W goes to.
Thanks for all your helps guys!
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2006 Frontier Crew Cab Nismo 4X4
K&N drop in filter w/ modded box, OEM hood deflector, WeatherTech window deflectors, WeatherTech digital fit mats (front/rear), PRG 2" spacers/PRG adjustable shackles (set @ 1.5"), OEM adjustable camber bolts, USA SPEC PA15-NIS iPod interface, Truxedo Truxport Tonneau cover
Last edited by Blackrabbit0888; 11-10-2012 at 02:58 PM.
Reason: added link to manual.
The Used Oil Analysis (UOA) will give you all metals, elements, etc... that are in the oil. It will also give you the Total Base Number (TBN) which is an indicator of what additives/life are left in the oil. Once this number reaches 1.0, it is considered low and a sign to change the oil.
So do you send a sample off and then determine if it's time to change your oil or change at given intervals and just keep the info for personal reference? Also, where do you send it and how much does it cost? Thanks!
Sent from galaxy s2
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2006 Frontier Crew Cab Nismo 4X4
K&N drop in filter w/ modded box, OEM hood deflector, WeatherTech window deflectors, WeatherTech digital fit mats (front/rear), PRG 2" spacers/PRG adjustable shackles (set @ 1.5"), OEM adjustable camber bolts, USA SPEC PA15-NIS iPod interface, Truxedo Truxport Tonneau cover
So do you send a sample off and then determine if it's time to change your oil or change at given intervals and just keep the info for personal reference? Also, where do you send it and how much does it cost? Thanks!
Sent from galaxy s2
Like Dubie said, he uses it as confirmation that the oil he uses and how often he changes it is correct and good for his truck. I have commercial customers who use oil analysis to determine how much longer they can go before having to change the oil. When you're running 9-10 gallons of oil, it is very cost effective. Amsoil offers used oil analysis through a company called oil analyzers. Its like $27 for the hand pump, which is reusable and the analysis kit is $32 including postage.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Motorcop75 For This Useful Post:
Best to use high mileage Mobil1 10/30. Know the ratings before giving advice. It is A3/B3 with higher levels of zinc and phosphorus than regular or extended mobil 1 10/30. 0/40 is too thick at operating temps ~35% than 30 weight.
I use WIX oil analysis kits. I purchased 6 of them on amazon for 35 shipped. Each time I send on it, it only costs me postage which is very minimal, less then 3 bucks.
Blackstone is another lab but they have been going up in price. Polarisis is another and seems to be the new go-to. Oil Analizers is the next lab in line. Basically, see who is the closest to you and has the best price and go from there.
The comments are basically useless so do the research and know what the numbers mean and you will be good.
In my case, I dumped the oil at 5k and took a sample mid stream. If it comes back favorable, I will probably dump the current at 5k and sample again to get 2 data points. If they both show life left, I may push it further on the next fill. Its all about trending your motor to see. Its best to stick with a single brand so you get a true trend.
BobIsTheOilGuy.com (BITOG) is a great site for oil advice. Do a ton of reading and reviewing others analysis results. You will pick up the trends that you need to know to understand the analysis. As with everything, take everything with a grain of salt.
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07 SE CC Auto
The Following User Says Thank You to dubie2003 For This Useful Post:
Best to use high mileage Mobil1 10/30. Know the ratings before giving advice. It is A3/B3 with higher levels of zinc and phosphorus than regular or extended mobil 1 10/30. 0/40 is too thick at operating temps ~35% than 30 weight.
Not sure if I was giving advice. I was merely speaking/writing what I found for myself. I would hope people would do their research before accepting what they read on forums. Forums are to be used as a tool. I'm gathering my information and will make a decision for myself. I would hope people can use the information in this post and make up their own decisions for their own vehicles, like I am doing. My wording could be interpreted as advice, but it wasn't meant to be. So members that read this, I give no advice about Mobil 1 0W-40.
Sent from galaxy s2
__________________
2006 Frontier Crew Cab Nismo 4X4
K&N drop in filter w/ modded box, OEM hood deflector, WeatherTech window deflectors, WeatherTech digital fit mats (front/rear), PRG 2" spacers/PRG adjustable shackles (set @ 1.5"), OEM adjustable camber bolts, USA SPEC PA15-NIS iPod interface, Truxedo Truxport Tonneau cover
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