DETAILED instructions on how to replace burnt headlight bulb connectors. - Nissan Frontier Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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DETAILED instructions on how to replace burnt headlight bulb connectors.

I have found a lot of helpful information on this site, so I decided to add some of my own. This is for those of that ran high watt bulbs and melted your stock connectors, or if you plan ahead and are going to run high watt bulbs. If one of headlights is dim, then you have started to melt the connections, replace them now so they both don't go out on you in the dark like mine did. The replacement connectors can be found at Autozone or your local parts store for about $12.
1st , disconnect the positive side of your battery, and reach down and turn the large white ring a 1/4 turn, and pull out the bulb and stock connector.


2nd disconnect the bulb from the stock connector, you might have to use a screw driver as the lever does not always release, you can see the damage from the high watt bulbs.


3rd, grab your new connector, and strip the ends. You can shorten them, but I kept the long to make removing the headlight bulbs easier.


4th, crimp your butt connectors on, and and slide some heat shrink over them, you can solder the wires if you prefer.


5th, Slice the tape on the stock wires, and cut your 1st wire, close to the connector b/c the wires are not that long on the battery side. Cutting and connecting one at a time will insure you line them up right, it is D shaped so just follow the order left to right.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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6th, crimp the butt connector on the stock wire, then use a lighter to shrink the heat wrap.


7th, Just follow along the order, cutting, crimping, then shrinking.


8th, tape your wires together to protect them and make it look stock. Then Place the white ring back on your bulb, making sure the tabs point to the back.


Last, re-connect battery, test and enjoy.


Hope this can help others, please ask if you have any questions.

Last edited by SouthernFront26; 12-31-2009 at 07:26 PM.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 01:37 PM
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Thank you for the detailed write up. One suggestion: step one I reccommend the removal of the negative terminal rather than the positive.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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haha ya that would be good too, it was super early this morning, and I needed headlights for tonight...
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-31-2009, 08:12 PM
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I used these on my high wattage bulbs. I installed them right before upgrading my bulbs. No problems in over 3 years.

9004 / 9007 Factory replacement bulb socket upgrade kit



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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-01-2010, 08:15 PM
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not to rain on your parade or anything, but all you fixed was the damage caused by the problem. you did not fix the problem.

now instead of the plug being the weak point in the system, its going to be the wimpy factory wire. hopefully you dont have to go through tracking down a short in the factory harness.

i would suggest upgrading with a couple relays and some 12g wire if you plan to run 100w bulbs for the life of the vehicle.

simple headlight relay wiring
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-02-2010, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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not to rain on your parade or anything
It's cool man, I don't know all that much about electrical stuff, just thought I would try and help. If I just run the stock wattage bulbs, do you think it will be alright?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-02-2010, 11:06 AM
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Interesting thread. Have you guys re-wired your trucks for applications like this?

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-02-2010, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthernFront26 View Post
It's cool man, I don't know all that much about electrical stuff, just thought I would try and help. If I just run the stock wattage bulbs, do you think it will be alright?
stock wattage bulbs will be fine. and you are helping. there are people out there in the same situation that might not know. so lets get the knowledge out there.

the problem with running the higher wattage bulbs is they draw more current. more current takes a bigger wire. If you use too small a wire, there is too much resistance which creates heat. this is why the plastic melted at the socket. chances are the wire was hot as well, but the insulation on the wire has a higher melting temp than the plastic bulb socket.

if you continue to use a high wattage bulb, the heat will still get generated in the factory wire. you might not notice on the drive home from work or that quick dinner run. but lets say youre out at midnight for 4 hours getting your buddies yota out of a mudhole, with the lights on that heat will have plenty of time to travel the length of the wire. maybe youll get lucky and itll melt at your butt connector. or maybe itll be in a worse spot like the headlight switch, or somewhere along the main harness.

hooking up a couple relays is pretty painless if you follow the diagram in that link. total cost of materials is about $30 for the relays, 12g wire, and bulb pigtails.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-05-2010, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I'm just going to stick with the oem bulbs, only like a 1 year left on the lease... haha
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