i would only get the noise when i turned left sounded like my front wheel was gunna come off!! and the rough yea i drove it one day before taking it in like something is f**ked up every single bump dip i felt it. the cab never felt loose while i was driving tho everything was solid feeling no body movement.. but the cab bolts did not make any sence to me i thought they were trying to nickle and dime me but they torqued back to specs and i havent have any weird noises anymore. no noise at all turning left now bump or no bump sounds solid. give em a good cranking or better yet torqued and see if that solves the noise.. i havent heard of this from anyone else that was just my personal problem that made the noise and thats what solved it, might be commom if your hard on your toys easy check off on the list if anything to figuring it out. lettme know if that helps at all im curious to what it is now
I took a look, they look pretty solid.. tomorrow is my weekend, so i'll take a look... any idea what the torque specs are on those bolts? I guess I could google. It does sound like an unrelated problem, as i am leaning towards bushings, but it wouldn't hurt to torque those babies down
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Roads..? Where we're going... We don't need... Roads...
I've been plagued with the squeaky brake problem for quite some time but it has recently gotten much worse. In the past, the brakes would squeak very slightly first thing in the morning only if it was cold or humid outside. After a wheeling trip a couple weeks ago, I had a ton of mud caked in my wheels. I had to blast the mud out with a garden hose. Now the brake squeal happens anytime the truck has been sitting for more than a couple of hours and it is incredibly ear piercingly loud. I have found that I can prevent it by hitting the brakes hard a couple times when backing out of my driveway.
I had my belt tensioner and drive belt replaced at 24K after the tensioner started making noise at 19K. The truck is now at 38K (just past warranty) and the noise is back just 14K miles later.
Both rear axle seals blew at 29K and were replaced under warranty. I have since done the axle vent mod so that hopefully won't happen again.
I'm not complaining about the truck. All of these issues are minor or preventable, and my truck hasn't had an easy life. Mud and water could have contributed to any of the problems I just listed.
That Sure sounds like the same same things that happen to me !! It turned out to be mud,rockes.etc jammed in between the backing plate and the Brake rotor!! it sounds awful, I know. I ended up just removing the backing plates, now no more noises
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Ink blue 2011 Pro4-X KC 6 speed, shrock front bumper, OME shocks and Struts. AC lift coils with rear add-a-leafs. K&N drop in filter, Flowmaster Series 70 dual 2.25" in/ single 3" out on rubber mounts.
That Sure sounds like the same same things that happen to me !! It turned out to be mud,rockes.etc jammed in between the backing plate and the Brake rotor!! it sounds awful, I know. I ended up just removing the backing plates, now no more noises
Wow, that was an old post...truck is at 49K now. I cleaned and regreased the brake pads shortly after I made that post, and they are 95% better now. Also finally replaced the belt again a couple weeks ago and got rid of that noise too. Now I'm plagued with an SES light and a 4WD malfunction light...I can't win.
Wow, that was an old post...truck is at 49K now. I cleaned and regreased the brake pads shortly after I made that post, and they are 95% better now. Also finally replaced the belt again a couple weeks ago and got rid of that noise too. Now I'm plagued with an SES light and a 4WD malfunction light...I can't win.
It's the same lights that have been on since August...P0448 on for the SES and P1814 for the 4WD light. I just haven't gotten around to fixing either one. Some weekend when the outside temperature actually decides to go above freezing, I'll have to tear into the evap canister and see if I can figure out the P0448. As for the P1814, that code is for the wait detection switch but from what I've read, it could be ANY of the switches on the transfer case. I'm actually suspecting the 4LO switch based on the timing of the pattern of lights on my dashboard. The continuity to all the switches is fine, but I will probably try replacing the wait detection switch and 4LO switch just for shits and giggles. If that doesn't work, I'll probably do nothing. The 4WD system works perfect.
Thank You sir! Hopefully I have the right size adapter, if not, i'll be having to buy one... they look about the size of my axle hub bolt on my last car.
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Roads..? Where we're going... We don't need... Roads...
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