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295/75/16?

12K views 38 replies 13 participants last post by  cstone 
#1 · (Edited)
Anyone running this size? I'm looking at the Toyo Open Country AT II in this size which measures 33.4"x11.6". They will be mounted on Level 8 MK6's which are 16x8 with 0 offset (4.5" backspacing). The reason I'm considering these rather than the ever popular 285/75/16's is because the Toyo's come in their "Xtreme" model in this size which means deeper and more aggressive tread and sidewalls, plus I like being different. For comparison, 285/75/16 Duratracs measure 33.1"x11.3" so it is under 1/3" bigger in both diameter and width. My truck is lifted 2.5" front and rear. I am expecting some trimming and melting to be required, but I'd prefer not to chop the outer (visible) portion of the fenders. What do you guys and gals think, can I make them fit without chopping the outer sheet metal?
 
#3 ·
You shouldn't have to chop anything visible as long as you're sticking with stock-ish offset/backspacing. But you'll have to cut into the fender under the liner quite a bit I imagine. My Toyo 285 MTs are 33.4" tall new and I got away with the usual trim job on 2.5" lift.
I'd like to find a taller but not too much wider 16 for mine for when I do the bracket kit. I was gonna run the 285/75/17s on the old truck but I'd really prefer to keep the stock wheels for a while on this one and stick to 16s. The 295s might work out if they end up being taller than my 285 MTs. Ideally I'd like to be between 34" and 35" and close to 11" wide

BTW, you'll likely have to chop up the mud flaps a bit too if you plan on keeping the fronts (can't remember off hand if you still had the stock flaps on it)
 
#4 ·
Thanks man. I'm gonna go for it as long as the price isn't too much more. I have no problem hacking away at the hidden stuff, just don't feel quite confident enough in my finishing skills to cut into the outer portion. I got rid of my stock mud flaps when I got the 265's and replaced them with some flexible rubber ones so that shouldn't be a problem. They will move wherever the liner goes since that's what they're screwed into on the inner edge. I'll be sure to get pics up when I do it. I'm contemplating UCAs first to get my camber corrected first since I don't feel quite right about dropping that kind of cash on rubber with the alignment out of spec even though it hasn't hurt my current tires. Decisions, decisions...
 
#5 ·
The biggest plus to adding the adjustable UCAs (next to the added travel obviously) is the ability to move your alignment points around in order to get the tires a bit farther forward. Cuts down on a lot of trimming ; )
 
#6 ·
Yeah that's what I was thinking too, but I think I've decided to go with wheels and tires first because I would like to be able to get my current wheels and tires up for sale before the snow hits since that's when they'll likely sell the fastest and I'm not positive when I'll be able to afford all 3. I should be able to get UCA's by Christmas so I should be alright with the current alignment and 3k mile rotations until then.
 
#7 ·
Alright, the 295's are a for sure now. I just called Les Schwab and they're the exact same price as the 285's. That was the only thing I wasn't sure about. I'll probably order my wheels tonight and have Les Schwab order my tires once I find out when the wheels should be here.
 
#8 ·
Post up some pics after if you don't mind. I've been thinking about 295's also.
 
#9 ·
Subscribed! I am about to put on my lift and would be stoked if these can fit without too much cutting!
 
#11 ·
Well the trimming is FAR worse than I imagined. Hopefully I can finish the chopping tomorrow and get some pictures up.

I absolutely would not recommend that anyone go with 295's unless they are interested in hacking their fenders a lot! Even with a 6 inch lift I think you would have serious rubbing under compression. For an idea of how bad it is, I couldn't turn the wheel more than a quarter turn on the way home. I had to chop both the front bumper and the back of the front fender.
 
#15 ·
My shop does, for sure. Some of the larger tires, though they may balance, can have a 'hop' to them and they want to know that before sending it down the road. Plus they want to know if they are rubbing etc before the person tries to drive home and possibly causes an accident. Maybe this service is why I have to pay 30% more up here for rubber. :laugh:
 
#16 ·
I have 2.5" of lift. If I hadn't already told the shop that I was expecting rubbing and just needed to get home to the grinder they wouldn't have let me leave. I only live half a mile from their shop, and traffic is never bad.
 
#19 ·
Yeah it was kind of foolish. Now that I've seen the amount of rubbing at 2.5 inches I'm confident even your truck would rub quite a bit, especially when the front suspension is compressed. If I can't get the rubbing completely taken care of I'll throw a body lift on soon to gain a bit more clearance.

Mr_Scott - here's the two I shared in the "What have you done..." thread. This is before any trimming:

 
#24 ·
I'm really not too impressed with that picture. Hopefully the ones from my good camera look better. Black wheels are always hard to photograph from more than a couple feet away though. In case anyone is wondering, the back is squatted a bit in the after pic because the old wheels and tires are in the bed. The before pic had an empty bed.
 
#25 ·
Looks great! So do you think the the wheels offset caused the need for all sheet metal trimming? My hope is that with stock wheels this size will fit without sheet metal trimming
 
#26 ·
Stock wheels would surely reduce the amount of trimming required, but I am confident that you would still be trimming a bit of visible sheet metal. If you know how a grinder works you can do it and make it look pretty damn good. Almost all of my experience with a grinder is with just cutting metal fencing and rebar (pretty cuts not required) and I still managed good looking cuts. The only hard part was figuring out how much to cut, but since I've already figured that out for you it would be easy for you. Just need a grinder with a cutoff wheel and grinding wheel and a few screw drivers. Then use touch up paint on the exposed metal. A heatgun was very helpful for the fender liners.
 
#27 ·
hmm... Then this size is probably out for me then. I don't want to do any sheet metal trimming. I guess its back to deciding 285s or 255s. Thanks
 
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