Nice work.
Do you think think this will be an issue in the rain or snow in 2Hi?
In 2wd it never was before in my past experience, but anything is possible.The wheels unlock with hardly any resistance when in 2wd because their is no torque being applied to the cam gears. A locked front end will handle different in the snow/ice when your in 4wd no doubt about it. You get use to it I actually prefer it, thats why I did it again and will do it on my next 4x4.
Bill
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2010 SE KC 4x4 6spd,Bilstein/OME 607/2.5AAL suspension lift,Light Racing UCA,2" Body lift 305/70/16 Cepek Mud Countrys, Airaid Quickfit, Leer 100XR cap, Shrockworks Pre-runner winch bumper,Sliders and full belly skids, Truetrac LSD rear,Lokka locker in front,Engo 9000 winch,48"Hi-Lift,Bushwacker flares,Goodridge +4 SS brake lines, 3 XVision spots,Gibson Stainless exhaust,Jet TBS,Hypertech Max Energy,PRG short shifter,Amsoil synthetics.
Honestly I'm more concerned about the cv shafts now. As long as you realize that the r180A is no dana60 and drive with your head I dont see a problem. My first jeep a 5spd had a dana 35c which is notoriously know to blow apart. I had a lockrite and 4.56 gears and would tow a 1200 lb lifted popup camper through some pretty knarly trails with no problems. Drive with your head not the skinny pedal.
Bill
Bill,
Your pics and write-up are awesome, by the way. If this mod holds up, it might be the best find on this forum in a while. I'm out here in Japan, so unfortunately, there's a shortage of front diffs for my truck out here, lol. That and the fact that I spent 99.999 percent of the time on the pavement (have to drive 2 hours to find some mud and work has been busy lately), then I'll wait a bit for this mod. Definately thinking about buying one of these to put on my shelf until I get back to the states though.
Also, I totally agree with driving with common sense. Guess you can't hit the rev limiter on rock trails like you used to be able to. I've also found the "other other week link" in my truck, I was backing up a very steep hill the other day and my clutch slipped(fully engaged, 7000 miles on my OD). Reverse is too high geared for these trucks (6m) and would be hell to back a trailer, etc. My next mod will probably be an aftermarket clutch/flywheel.
__________________ 2011 CC 6M Pro-4x 4x4. Undercover bed cover, Hefty full skid set, AC 2" body lift, trail gear rock sliders, weathertech floor mats, GT seat covers, JVC 2Din head unit, Pyle dual headrest monitors, JVC rear view camera, PRG advanced lift, LOKKA front dif locker, Dunlop Grandtrek MT2 285/75R16.
Well my experience in deep snow is what started me on the locked front kick back when I was a pup. Open diffs while ok in the light dry stuff, pull from one side to the other in the deep stuff. Last year was the final straw on the Fronty, we had a freak snow storm in October with over a foot of wet heavy snow. Power was out in most of the area because of the heavy snow knocking down a hell of alot of trees and wiping out power lines.I got called into work 3 times during the night because of generator problems and refridgeration failures. 3 times I went out with my truck with 285/75 BFG AT`s. The ELSD that the Nissan comes with kind of exacerbate the open diff problem.While driving around downed trees and climbing the hills, one of the front tires would start spinning bad (VDC off) (the truck wouldnt move with it on because it kills engine power)and the braking system would try to stop that wheel from spinning and it would start spinning on the other side which would pull me in the other direction, usually toward a tree. With locked diffs you steer more with the throttle than with the steering wheel, it doesnt pull from side to side and wont track tire ruts as bad. Sorry for the long story but thats why. It also works a hell of alot better in mud and uneven terrain where the suspension gets crossed up
Bill
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2010 SE KC 4x4 6spd,Bilstein/OME 607/2.5AAL suspension lift,Light Racing UCA,2" Body lift 305/70/16 Cepek Mud Countrys, Airaid Quickfit, Leer 100XR cap, Shrockworks Pre-runner winch bumper,Sliders and full belly skids, Truetrac LSD rear,Lokka locker in front,Engo 9000 winch,48"Hi-Lift,Bushwacker flares,Goodridge +4 SS brake lines, 3 XVision spots,Gibson Stainless exhaust,Jet TBS,Hypertech Max Energy,PRG short shifter,Amsoil synthetics.
The Following User Says Thank You to Camperguy For This Useful Post:
I've also found the "other other week link" in my truck, I was backing up a very steep hill the other day and my clutch slipped(fully engaged, 7000 miles on my OD). Reverse is too high geared for these trucks (6m) and would be hell to back a trailer, etc. My next mod will probably be an aftermarket clutch/flywheel.
I agree while teaching my son to drive a stick he must have taken 20,000 miles off my clutch. I`ve had good luck with Centerforce Dual Friction clutches in the past, they do chatter a little though.Not sure if they make one for us.
Thanks for your service. Japan seems like a pretty nice place for a tour.
Bill
__________________
2010 SE KC 4x4 6spd,Bilstein/OME 607/2.5AAL suspension lift,Light Racing UCA,2" Body lift 305/70/16 Cepek Mud Countrys, Airaid Quickfit, Leer 100XR cap, Shrockworks Pre-runner winch bumper,Sliders and full belly skids, Truetrac LSD rear,Lokka locker in front,Engo 9000 winch,48"Hi-Lift,Bushwacker flares,Goodridge +4 SS brake lines, 3 XVision spots,Gibson Stainless exhaust,Jet TBS,Hypertech Max Energy,PRG short shifter,Amsoil synthetics.
With locked diffs you steer more with the throttle than with the steering wheel, it doesnt pull from side to side and wont track tire ruts as bad.
I have a Spartan auto locker, which is essentially the same thing, just in the other axle. I'm trying to picture how the truck would handle on ice if the locker were in the front.
If I'm on an icy (or snow covered road) and I need to get going from a stop, the Spartan will sometimes lock up initially, and then release as the tires get traction. Not only is that not a big deal, it makes it much easier to get going because I don't get any tire spin. When going in a straight line, I'm sure the Lokka does the same thing.
It's a little different on a curve though. If traction is bad enough, the Spartan will lock up on a curve. Not a big deal because that's not my steering axle. Locked rear or not, I can still point the truck where I want it to go, and it goes there. I can still pull it out of a fishtail situation too. But I'm having trouble picturing how to make that same curve with a locked front end.
If I release the gas pedal in the middle of a tight enough curve (a left hand turn at an intersection is tight enough), my truck will buck. That is true REGARDLESS of whether or not the diff locked up. Even if the diff stays open through the curve, releasing the throttle causes bucking.
So typically, when I go into a curve, I let up on the gas pedal and depress the clutch pedal before I enter the curve. About midway through the curve, I let up on the clutch and start giving it gas. With good traction, it's very smooth. With crappy enough traction, that's the point at which the Spartan will lock. (And if were to let up on the gas while still in the curve, that's where I'll get bucking.)
So I guess I'm trying to picture following the above sequence with an auto locker in the front. How would that affect my ability to handle the truck if the steering axle locked up on an icy curve?
I know it may sound weired but I prefer a locker in the front than in the back. Thats why I went with a trutrac in the back. The Lockrites and Detroits would load and unload in the rear more so than in the front in my experience. It was really noticable in a short wheel base vehicle like the Jeeps but not as bad in the Longer wheelbase like my Tacoma. The only way I can describe it is it wants to go straight on power and turn while off. You can cut power goose it and it goes where you point it. When in back its more of a push while in the front its a pull. I didnt like how it would unload in the rear , say coasting around a corner and then jerk straight while you get on the gas. Im sure you know what I meen. I`m not sure if its because of the pushing and lack of weight over the back end that made it more pronounced. I have to be honest this is the first time that I had measurements for clearances come with this style locker. All of the Lockrites just said reuse the factory shims maybe thats why theyve all seemed really tight ot really loose...Ice on a flat road is probably better served with open diffs and the factory traction control for most people. Usually I have bought dedicated winter tires studded and sipped muds for just that, but cash isnt that available anymore. The biggest problems I had with being locked front and back was off road on off camber side hills in snow and ice, because it wants to go sideways toward the gully. Ice sucks no doubt and mud tires can make it worse. I just drive pretty damn slow when its all ice, luckily we seem to get more snow than ice.
Bill
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2010 SE KC 4x4 6spd,Bilstein/OME 607/2.5AAL suspension lift,Light Racing UCA,2" Body lift 305/70/16 Cepek Mud Countrys, Airaid Quickfit, Leer 100XR cap, Shrockworks Pre-runner winch bumper,Sliders and full belly skids, Truetrac LSD rear,Lokka locker in front,Engo 9000 winch,48"Hi-Lift,Bushwacker flares,Goodridge +4 SS brake lines, 3 XVision spots,Gibson Stainless exhaust,Jet TBS,Hypertech Max Energy,PRG short shifter,Amsoil synthetics.
Ah, it didn't occur to me that a front auto locker might be less quirky than a rear. I was assuming it would behave the same way. Will the Lokka make the truck buck if you release the throttle on a curve like I'm describing? How much more difficult is it to steer when the thing locks?
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