I forget what I ended up with, but I remember it being larger than what research had suggested, and I still had to work/force it over the stock fitting on the axle. I went down to a kragen-oreilly and they actually cut me a couple inches of each tubing they had to see which fit best.
__________________ 2012 Pro-4x CC
Mods: Bilstein 5100/OME coils, Shackles/Bilstein 5125, Hefty Sliders, BFG 255/85r16 KM2's, Tinted windows, LEDs (interior, cargo, backup), Amsoil Ea filter
Pipe Dream: Custom bumpers, Calmini/Titan swap with full length coilovers, Alcan rear springs
Here's a shot up into the taillight hole. There's an unused hole I just ran a zip tie through.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
__________________ 2010 P4X CC: 2.5in/2in Lift (ADF&PRG), Xoskel Bumper Mouth Bracket w/ 4 Rigid Industries Duallys, Superchips Tuned 87 Performance w/WOT Removed, Kool Vue CAI, Rear Axle Vent Mod, Bakflip G2, Radiator bypass, LED conversion.
In Progress: SPC UCA's (in hand) super on the down-low LED light bar project, Cargo light delete, LED courtesy lights, IMS, exhaust, skids, 285's, LED reverse floods Axle Vent Mod & Radiator Bypass South Jersey
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to JettyLife For This Useful Post:
I did the axle vent mod as originally posted yesterday on my 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4x Crew Cab. When I popped the cap off the stock breather I could definitely hear air either whoosh in or whoosh out - I bought my truck new 8 months ago and have 14K on the odometer. Hopefully the seals et al are still ok. It didn't appear my breather was clogged with dirt.
Just as badbrad358 wrote "I routed mine up the brake line, across the round cross member under the bed, and snapped it into a bracket that appears to have been made to snap a hose in place". I just popped the cap off the existing breather (stock) and put a 3/8 inch fuel line with a fuel filter installed 2 inches before the end of the line with it pointed down, mounted to the bracket that appears to have been made to snap a hose in place just as in badbrad358's write up. Note that I originally got 1/4 fuel line but after trying to get it on, I had to go back to the parts store to get 3/8 inch fuel line which fit after wiggling it back and forth a bit - secured with a hose clamp.
After routing it to the bracket just under the bottom of the bed (3 feet off the ground or so) I read about one individual having problems with water in the breather line/fuel filter mounted there - I have to imagine that he had water in the diff before doing the mod or some other problem - how would water go against gravity to rise up past the fuel filter and end up in the diff - seems like a long shot?
Any reason to mess with it and route it up past the rear tail light - at this point I would have to buy more fuel line which I can do but? Looks good to go to me.
Thanks Badbrad358 for the write up and others for their feedback.
After routing it to the bracket just under the bottom of the bed (3 feet off the ground or so) I read about one individual having problems with water in the breather line/fuel filter mounted there - I have to imagine that he had water in the diff before doing the mod or some other problem - how would water go against gravity to rise up past the fuel filter and end up in the diff - seems like a long shot?
If you're talking about me...I'm still not sure how the water got in the filter, or how or at what point the water entered the rear diff. It is entirely possible that the two things were completely unrelated. But I did consider the spot where the fuel line attached to the axle tube to be a possible entry point. So when I redid the vent mod, I made sure to take measures to prevent water from entering there. I still can't explain the water in the filter...but the water in the diff was either already there before I did the vent mod, or I seriously screwed it up somehow. I have terrible luck when it comes to vehicles. Unless you regularly drive in water deeper than the frame, I'm sure you're fine.
Thanks for the response JeniorNV - my water crossings likely won't ever come past the frame so I'll probably leave it as is for now - in a few months maybe I'll have some extra time and will route it up higher.
If I get water in my breather line etc I'll let others know.
__________________ 2010 P4X CC: 2.5in/2in Lift (ADF&PRG), Xoskel Bumper Mouth Bracket w/ 4 Rigid Industries Duallys, Superchips Tuned 87 Performance w/WOT Removed, Kool Vue CAI, Rear Axle Vent Mod, Bakflip G2, Radiator bypass, LED conversion.
In Progress: SPC UCA's (in hand) super on the down-low LED light bar project, Cargo light delete, LED courtesy lights, IMS, exhaust, skids, 285's, LED reverse floods Axle Vent Mod & Radiator Bypass South Jersey
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