05 Nismo SAS...build-up - Page 3 - Nissan Frontier Forum
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post #21 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 09:26 PM
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cool, i was confused about the eaton axle. sounds badass!

if that is a 67" axle, that is a wide *** frame! keep us updated.

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post #22 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudyfronty05 View Post
Greg, I know you are using coilovers on your build but do you think front leaf springs would be another option? I spoke to a shop that had done a SAS on an Xterra about using leaf springs and they told me the area where the front of the springs would have mounted wouldn't be strong enough to support them.

I would think fabbing up a custom front cross member would help that.
just notch the frame in an L shape and drop in a custom spring hanger

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post #23 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by penski61 View Post
just notch the frame in an L shape and drop in a custom spring hanger
that's what I was thinking or maybe plate the frame with thicker steel where you would weld but I'm not a fabricator like some people and wasn't sure.

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post #24 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudyfronty05 View Post
Greg, I know you are using coilovers on your build but do you think front leaf springs would be another option? I spoke to a shop that had done a SAS on an Xterra about using leaf springs and they told me the area where the front of the springs would have mounted wouldn't be strong enough to support them.

I would think fabbing up a custom front cross member would help that.
Leafs would be really easy, just the front and rear spring mounts...then a shock. But coilovers is what I do, and I can do a lot more tuning with dual-rate coils. Like Penski did, you'd need a different front cross member for the leaf hanger to mount.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MateoTheWombat View Post
Looking good Greg! Are you going to get wider rear fenders as well?
Gonna ditch the bed (for sale....super cheap if any one is interested) and run just bedsides and tool boxes/flat area.

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Originally Posted by rorybellows View Post
greg, this gonna be a "bolt in" kit? bout time somebody did this on here. looks good
That was part of the original plan, but I dont think that a kit can be built. I may e able to build a new x-member that people could use to do their own SAS, but there would till be so much fab work that the x-member would only save a small amount of effort. As of now, no kit. Nut I will document everything and help anyone with all the advice I can give if they want to try this.

Last edited by PrerunnerGreg; 05-10-2009 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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post #25 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by PrerunnerGreg View Post
Leafs would be really easy, just the front and rear spring mounts...then a shock. But coilovers is what I do, and I can do a lot more tuning with dual-rate coils. Like Penski did, you'd need a different front cross member for the leaf hanger to mount.
Haha, I wasn't suggesting you change your setup to leafs, I was just asking because you have already knocked a lot of the junk out of the way and had a good look at the frame and I wanted a second opinion.

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post #26 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
a link kit in the front is going to be tough, but you should try to make a three link kit for the rear... its not hard at all.
i went from leafs to linked in one day (long day) building from scratch.
every prerunner guy would be buying one, the street guys would love it, and the commuters would like it for comfort as well.
Desert trucks have two differences over you. 1, panhard bars suck when going fast...especially on the rear as any thing with more than about 12" travel will shift the rear around a lot.
2, mounting the coilovers on the rear axle has proven to be very, very difficult to tune as you must run triple-rate coils and the valving is a nightmare...the shocks really need to mounted on the linkage. Even the old straigt-axle Jeeps of Curt LeDuc and Mike Leslie ditched the Panhard bar and ran 4-links with crazy steering. Panhard bars are good for articulation and 3/4-link (Satchel link) are better for lots of vertical movement and going fast.
I will be building a 3 link with Panhard bar front and rear for this truck. These are simple, easy and quick to build.
Here is a small pic of the travel you can get from a good desert-style 4 link. The rear would be in the next room with this kind of travel and a panhard bar. but this style rear is weaker in side loading and will have a tendency to "walk" side to side when articulating.

Last edited by PrerunnerGreg; 05-11-2009 at 08:52 AM.
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post #27 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrerunnerGreg View Post
Desert trucks have two differences over you. 1, panhard bars suck when going fast...especially on the rear as any thing with more than about 12" travel will shift the rear around a lot.
2, mounting the coilovers on the rear axle has proven to be very, very difficult to tune as you must run triple-rate coils and the valving is a nightmare...the shocks really need to mounted on the linkage. Even the old straigt-axle Jeeps of Curt LeDuc and Mike Leslie ditched the Panhard bar and ran 4-links with crazy steering. Panhard bars are good for articulation and 3/4-link (Satchel link) are better for lots of vertical movement and going fast.
I will be building a 3 link with Panhard bar front and rear for this truck. These are simple, easy and quick to build.
Here is a small pic of the travel you can get from a good desert-style 4 link. The rear would be in the next room with this kind of travel and a panhard bar. but this style rear is weaker in side loading and will have a tendency to "walk" side to side when articulating.
makes sense that a track bar wouldn't do well for long travel apps. i don't notice the axle shift at all when crawling, and i don't go too fast in this thing.
i think a three link kit for the rear would sell really well though. both for those seeking on-road comfort, and crawlers. the street guys could even lower and have a really nice ride, too.

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post #28 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 12:21 AM
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This is a Tech Forum Sticky and should be heavily moderated for ease of use. If you post useless (non technical) info, it will be deleted.
Like I said in my first post, I'm sure Greg appreciates all the support, but it cannot stay here.
Since everyone is hell-bent on not reading the criteria for posting in a tech forum and post up whatever they want, I'm contemplating moving all of your (deleted) posts to their own thread so you guys can support Greg within the General Discussion Forum and not in a Tech forum. --or you could start your own thread and link to this thread.


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Last edited by igbar; 05-12-2009 at 03:09 AM. Reason: clarify
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post #29 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-17-2009, 05:20 AM
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greg, why bother with stock steering when you could just go full hydro? you mentioned before that you are uneasy about the relyability of the stock steering components for this application. why not full hydro?

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post #30 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-17-2009, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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At this point I'm looking at running a Saginaw box, they are super strong, relatively cheap and every steering part under the sun is available for them. I have reservations about going full-hydro. This thing may be getting plates and tags and so I will be able to drive it on the highway. I really don't want to build a trailer queen. One thing that I really like about your set-up Roastbeef is that you drive it EVERYWHERE then beat the piss out of it.
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