05 Nismo SAS...build-up - Page 2 - Nissan Frontier Forum
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post #11 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-02-2009, 05:24 AM
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a four link would require moving the gas tank. three link is easiest for trucks. and trust me, they work well. haha.

can't wait to see this thing come together!

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post #12 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 02:21 PM
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I deleted all the chatter to clean up this Tech forum sticky.
I'm sure Greg appreciates all the support (all 47 posts of them) but keep it technically useful and on topic or it will be deleted (for ease of use).

Thanks for understanding.

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post #13 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-03-2009, 02:33 PM
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So I saw that you are going to put 40" swampers on there, but I only saw the 2.5 inch coil overs for lift. Is there more lift in the plans, or how are you gonna clear 40's? Also, I had a Dana 60 in my F-150, isn't that axle somewhat shorter than the the Eaton 1 ton?

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post #14 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-04-2009, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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So I saw that you are going to put 40" swampers on there, but I only saw the 2.5 inch coil overs for lift. Is there more lift in the plans, or how are you gonna clear 40's? Also, I had a Dana 60 in my F-150, isn't that axle somewhat shorter than the the Eaton 1 ton?
The coilovers are 2.5" Dia. as opposed to 2 or 3 or 4" dia. I will probably run 14" travel units. The Eaton is actually about 4" narrower (2 per side) than the D60 WMS to WMS.
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post #15 of 58 (permalink) Old 04-08-2009, 12:22 PM
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Yes, trying to keep the stock rack. It will probably fail miserably, but who knows. Racks are usually pretty strong...at least when there is no side-loading (ie; steep tie-rod angles and jumping) so I will try to adapt a swing-set and x-over to the tie-rod. I can change the steering ratio too. I may try to adapt a PSC ram also. If that doesnt work...well there's good 'ol Saganaw boxes out there. I really do have a modest budget for this project too. The other part is to see how far some of the stock parts can be pushed.
What about incorporating some steering stuff from the Titan? I'm assuming the rack from a Titan is beefier. I'm not a very good tech so my contemplation on the idea ended pretty quickly.


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post #16 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-09-2009, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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A few new pics. I have not actually done much as I have been really busy with real work stuff. but I did manage to shove the axle and rolling stock underneath to see what it'll look like. Here are just a couple pics to show whats going on. The rear tire is just sitting there for looks. As for a kit to do an SAS in the second gens....well, it really isn't looking too good. There is just no room to mount anything. I will have to basically cut all the x-members out and, at this point, I'm not sure I can get my steering idea implemented. The one thing I may be able to build is a basic x-member that will bolt-in and allow the basis for the links. The fenders will be cut a bunch and I will be removing the bed and running fiberglass bed sides. The plan is to have it running and ready under it's own power by June 22nd, as there is a local 4wd show and I'd like to take it out there. Here are a few pics for now...enjoy.

Yes, im running 42's.

front axle. no room at all with the factory brackets.

one more from underneath.
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post #17 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-09-2009, 09:54 PM
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I deleted all the chatter to clean up this Tech forum sticky.
I'm sure Greg appreciates all the support (all 47 posts of them) but keep it technically useful and on topic or it will be deleted (for ease of use).

Thanks for understanding.

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Read this before posting

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post #18 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 12:12 AM
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nice Greg


looks like youll want to re-gear to 4.56's

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post #19 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 12:13 AM
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i don't see how you are going to go linked in the front with coilovers with the axle being that narrow. not a ton of space in there, and those coilovers are going to move from side to side during articulation. my king 2.5's are a good 5.5" wide.

edit:
i'm assuming the pumpkin on that axle is cast iron.... its already going to be tough to get a link tab in there. but getting a strong weld to stick on cast iron is going to be difficult as well. there is a small portion of a link tab that was welded to my pumpkin and although the tab is mostly on the tube, the weld that was on the cast iron cracked.

its a sick build- but you never answered my question about why that particular front end? why not something wider and stronger?

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Last edited by roastbeef; 05-10-2009 at 12:21 AM.
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post #20 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-10-2009, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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i don't see how you are going to go linked in the front with coilovers with the axle being that narrow. not a ton of space in there, and those coilovers are going to move from side to side during articulation. my king 2.5's are a good 5.5" wide.

edit:
i'm assuming the pumpkin on that axle is cast iron.... its already going to be tough to get a link tab in there. but getting a strong weld to stick on cast iron is going to be difficult as well. there is a small portion of a link tab that was welded to my pumpkin and although the tab is mostly on the tube, the weld that was on the cast iron cracked.

its a sick build- but you never answered my question about why that particular front end? why not something wider and stronger?
The last part of you question has me a bit confused. The front axle is your garden-variety '80's 1-ton high-pinion Ford Dana 60 . The same axle nearly everyone starts with. The wheels are super-cheap with 4.5" BS and this leaves the actual width at 83" outside tire-to-outside tire. There is nothing readily available that is wider or stronger from the factory and at my price point.This axle should be about the same width as yours. What your seeing is a really wide frame. I don't want to run less backspacing but I may have to (or a small wheel spacer, arghh) btu I want to keep it as narrow as possible. Plus, the axle actually needs to be moved over about 1 inch to the DS in those pics, but I got tired of moving it around, so that is where it will stay until I go to cut all the brackets off the frame. As far as getting a 2.5" coilover in there...oh I'll make them fit. Working with a-arms trucks makes this seem like a walk in the park. Why would I need to weld to the casting? There is plenty of room for link and shock tabs on the end of the tubes. and you can weld on the tube ends as those are forged, not cast.
If your question is regarding the rear Eaton axle, the answer is because it is just plain bad-***. The housing is sheet metal....just like your older factory nissan and like a 9" and there is no need to truss it. The ring gear is 10.5" dia, has a drop-out style carrier (like a 9"), 35 spline axles, pinion has third bearing like 9" and 14 bolt....super strong, has a ring gear deflection adjustment...even more super strongness, disk brakes are cheap ($315 for the whole kit shipped), removable cover (unlike most drop-out style rears), because the housing is sheet metal, there is lots of clearance and the housing is pretty light. It is very similar to the Corp 14bolt, but weighs about 150 lbs less, has 2" more clearance, easy to weld to, bigger bearings, stronger ring gear, and they run anywhere from $100-300. The only downside is that the rebuild kits are $700 and there are no gears for them. But the factory options were 4.10 (autos) 4.56 (manual trans) and some rare 5.15-ish. I got 2 drop-outs, one has 4.10 and open diff (many had posi) and one with 4.56 and a Detroit locker...all for $300...and the axle had just been rebuilt. The axle is 2" narrower than the front (67" wms-wms) but that is easily fixed by with a spacer or (cooler and more work) machining custom aluminum hubs.
I have a trussed Track 9 housing with snouts, Pro-am hubs, brakes and everything (except the axles and drop-out) waiting for a good home. But this will be less expensive, stronger, and a bit more unique.

Last edited by PrerunnerGreg; 05-10-2009 at 07:59 AM.
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