So the other day my engine starting missing pretty bad when started while warm and the CEL came on. The miss would then go away after a couple miles of driving. So I went and got the codes checked and they were P0328 (knock sensor 1, Circuit High Input, bank 1) and P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire). And now just today when driving up a steep hill there was a sudden loss of power and a pretty noticeable miss. I have since replaced the spark plug in that cylinder #2 and all the spark plug wires. That stopped the miss and the CEL went out for a while, but now its back and the CEL is back on. Any idea what this could be? Or how to fix it?
What kind of plug did you install? Highly recommend NGK PFR5G-11. How does the distributor cap look on cylinder 2 terminal? If all ignition is ok, could be injector and/or wiring. If everything ignition and fuel are ok, then possible mechanical issue, check compression and perform leak down test if necessary. P0328 is high voltage signal on knock sensor circuit, most likely the sensor but a possible short to voltage in the circuit. The knock sensor is in the engine valley, have to remove intake manifold to replace.
OEM spec NGK plugs. The plug wiring i put in is also NGK. The injectors and distributor cap are fine, not sure about the wiring. What wiring would i check for the knock sensor?
Hmmm, maybe a mechanical issue causing the misfire. I'd check compression and go from there. Knock sensor circuit is a single wire from ECM to sensor, a white wire on terminal 64 of the ECM connector, look for 2.5 volts to the sensor, anything higher you've got a short to voltage. If you do it may be easier to just splice in a new wire, sometimes more work than its worth to track down a short. I would suspect the sensor though, more likely than wiring. That would also explain the loss of power, timing is retarded when computer gets a certain signal from knock sensor, that translates to no power.
Hmmm, maybe a mechanical issue causing the misfire. I'd check compression and go from there. Knock sensor circuit is a single wire from ECM to sensor, a white wire on terminal 64 of the ECM connector, look for 2.5 volts to the sensor, anything higher you've got a short to voltage. If you do it may be easier to just splice in a new wire, sometimes more work than its worth to track down a short. I would suspect the sensor though, more likely than wiring. That would also explain the loss of power, timing is retarded when computer gets a certain signal from knock sensor, that translates to no power.
There's not really too much difference on a non-s/c truck with a defective knock sensor. The only difference I noticed is a quieter startup, no difference in power when my knock sensor was bad.
The knock sensor relocation is pretty easy to do as well. The code only shows up when the knock sensor is shot.
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2000 Silver Frontier, SE 4x4 V6 Crew Cab (5spd) - 288xxx km and counting
Ignore the knock sensor code for now, it's not tripping the light. You've likely had that knock sensor code stored for months/years and never knew it until the misfire forced you to pull the codes. The misfire is the culprit here, and you need to focus on solving that problem first. How many miles are on your engine? If you have 150k or more there's a good chance your distributor bearing is wearing down and causing wobble in the rotor shaft.
p.s. Search the forum for information about the 3.3L knock sensor sometime, there's dozens of threads explaining the issues it does/doesn't cause.
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2002 XE CC LB 4x4
1984 720 KC 4x4
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