Newbie needs some help - Page 2 - Nissan Frontier Forum
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#11 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 01:07 AM
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the shinier looking plug is from the #4 cylinder so it goes in numerical order from top to bottom... the truck has 86k miles.. when i first got the truck n scanned it the code that came up was #4 cylinder misfire... n something to do with the MAP sensor... so that's where i'm at.... i checked the injectors and then it became a multiple/ random cylinder misfire after that... i checked all the plug wires and everything to see if i could've screwed it up but its all in the right order... it also has white smoke coming out of the exhaust but it smells more like fuel so i assumed it was the fuel that's spurting out of the exhaust manifold flange.. do the exhaust manifolds go bad on these trucks??... thanks for all the help so far... im trying to check everything that is suggested

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#12 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 02:18 AM
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If you have white smoke, and your #4 plug is that shiny compared to the rest of your plugs, then I'm afraid you have a blown head gasket.

White smoke is coolant burning. And coolant cleans the combustion chamber as well, hence your 1 plug being shiny. Its smelling like fuel because the fuel in #4 cyl is not combusting all the time due to the coolant in the mixture.

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#13 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 08:54 AM
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If you have white smoke, and your #4 plug is that shiny compared to the rest of your plugs, then I'm afraid you have a blown head gasket.

White smoke is coolant burning. And coolant cleans the combustion chamber as well, hence your 1 plug being shiny. Its smelling like fuel because the fuel in #4 cyl is not combusting all the time due to the coolant in the mixture.
agreed. look for leaks at two spots. .... it could be leaking somewhere else. but ive seen three separate engines go into my truck in the last 6 months do to a company that sucks at rebuilding and didn't find out till after the fact.... my original engine head gasket was leaking, not blown.... one spot to check would be the back left of the engine if your looking at the engine bay. it will be in the corner of the block. look for white residue. then look at the front right of the block in the corner. theres to little set screws that nissan put on the engine for better sealing of the head gasket. but it also makes it the weakpoint on the head gasket as well. thats just external stuff. im sure there could plenty of other places its leaking if its actually blown. just thought id thrown in my .02 cents


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suspension:1.5" AC shackles on the back and Sway away torsion bars and ultra low profile bump stops on the front, AC idler arm race Bilstein shocks4600's on front , and 5125 on back.Rancho steering stabilizer

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#14 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 11:10 AM
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I'd agree w/the blown head gasket. Those plugs are a mess and the white smoke tells us even more. Any brown sludge inside the oil cap?
I know a lot of people will holler, but if you're trying to repair it cheap, or at least get a few more miles out of it, I'd try some "blue devil" head gasket sealer and go from there. A complete tear down is going to cost, and a fresh long block will probably be the way to go. A good junk yard engine would be another way. Either way, I'd spend the $40 on some "blue devil" first.

Run it 'till it breaks and fix it faster!
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#15 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 02:49 PM
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Before throwing snake oil and other crap in your motor to 'fix' problems, let's talk actual diagnostic tests.

Leakdown test.
This will determine if you have a leaky head gasket and is the first thing I would do in your case. They (or you if you have an air compressor and buy the tester at Harbor Freight) can test each cylinder and determine if your head gasket is leaking and then you can make decisions from there.

Compression test.
This will determine if your piston rings are maintaining seal. Also can be done per cylinder to pinpoint the problem.

White smoke can be oil or coolant, they each have a different smell. If you are not losing coolant and your exhaust does not have a sweet smell (kind of like exhausty maple syrup) you don't have a coolant leak. If your rings are leaky, your exhaust will still be whitish, but not as sweet. You also have to make sure that exhaust burns off all the condensation in the pipes (which is also white) first and continually smokes to determine if your white smoke is steam or coolant or oil.

Let's start there first.
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#16 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 07:49 PM
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Before throwing snake oil and other crap in your motor to 'fix' problems, let's talk actual diagnostic tests.

Leakdown test.
This will determine if you have a leaky head gasket and is the first thing I would do in your case. They (or you if you have an air compressor and buy the tester at Harbor Freight) can test each cylinder and determine if your head gasket is leaking and then you can make decisions from there.

Compression test.
This will determine if your piston rings are maintaining seal. Also can be done per cylinder to pinpoint the problem.

White smoke can be oil or coolant, they each have a different smell. If you are not losing coolant and your exhaust does not have a sweet smell (kind of like exhausty maple syrup) you don't have a coolant leak. If your rings are leaky, your exhaust will still be whitish, but not as sweet. You also have to make sure that exhaust burns off all the condensation in the pipes (which is also white) first and continually smokes to determine if your white smoke is steam or coolant or oil.

Let's start there first.
agreed.... to buy a rebuild is roughly 1900 for a cheap motor then roughly 1500 to slide it in. then if you are to buy from nissan the vg33 is 7,500 without install. i S*** a brick when i called nissan to ask what a motor would cost. anyways if you end up going down that road. DO NOT BUY FROM 123 ENGINES .... they ripped me off and they knew it. and they have over 19 suit filled against them. i didnt find anything bad against them intill after the fact. the told me my old engine wasn't rebuild able so i lost the 295 dollar core charge. then the first engine the lifters were bad and the crankshaft seal between oil pump and block was bad in first two weeks. then i had to get BBB involved to get them to ship another engine under warranty....
so be careful who you get a rebuild from, unfortunately there's not really a whole lot of options as jasper does not work on the vg33's


Truck: 2002 Aztec RED V6 4X4 XE king cab

Interior: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speakers w/ polk PA330 amp, kicker 6x9 w/ polk PA 330 amp. Husky mats, cobra 29 LX cb radio

Exterior: 2 " AC body lift GYDURATRACS 265/75 R16 on Raceline Raptors wheels, Kobalt tool box, 35% tint
PIAA 510 SMR driving lights DDM tuning HID 55W 6000k , wilson 1000 cb whip

performance: K&N Air & Oil Filter, air intake mod,R1 Concepts slotted rotors,

suspension:1.5" AC shackles on the back and Sway away torsion bars and ultra low profile bump stops on the front, AC idler arm race Bilstein shocks4600's on front , and 5125 on back.Rancho steering stabilizer

soon to be mods, sliders, DOM front bumper , skids
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#17 (permalink) Old 12-09-2012, 08:41 PM
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Additionally, you can buy an inline spark tester and put it on the #4 wire to determine that plug is actually firing. Kinda seems like it isn't (from the pics and description), but then again I'm in North Carolina and your truck isn't. If you have actual fuel coming from the exhaust manifold, there's obviously something wrong with one of the core running requirements - fuel, air, spark and compression.

An inline tester (like $5-10 for one) will confirm spark at the wire. You obviously already have fuel and more than likely air as well if the truck runs at all. Let's work on determining if spark and compression are completely there first and then work at finding the cause if they're not.

Your misfire codes are a symptom of no compression, but I'm not sure about the MAP code so let's shelve that one for now.

If it comes down to needing a rebuild, if you can afford the downtime of this vehicle, there are more economical options.
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#18 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 12:36 AM
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Additionally, you can buy an inline spark tester and put it on the #4 wire to determine that plug is actually firing. Kinda seems like it isn't (from the pics and description), but then again I'm in North Carolina and your truck isn't. If you have actual fuel coming from the exhaust manifold, there's obviously something wrong with one of the core running requirements - fuel, air, spark and compression.

An inline tester (like $5-10 for one) will confirm spark at the wire. You obviously already have fuel and more than likely air as well if the truck runs at all. Let's work on determining if spark and compression are completely there first and then work at finding the cause if they're not.
You can also just remove the spark plug and ground it to the engine/frame to see if it sparks. May require more than one person to do it on the truck though, as I've only done it on my bikes and chainsaws.

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#19 (permalink) Old 04-07-2013, 12:28 AM
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ok so i have also tried changing the distributor since my last post & that didn't change anything at all... so Im starting to think maybe ill just buy a head gasket kit & go that route?? i am getting spark on all plugs... Idk.. please help
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