I replaced my fuel pump and fuel sending unit and I'll be Doing the Knock Sensor Mod - Nissan Frontier Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced my fuel pump and fuel sending unit and I'll be Doing the Knock Sensor Mod

I'm loving how much better my truck is running.

I'm a diagnostic technician now and I've noticed small LTFT's and much better gas mileage now that the PCM knows the temperature of the fuel again.

I'm going to also follow my gas mileage carefully and see if an above intake knock sensor will improve MPG also, or if it has to be below the intake to really work.

Also, I mostly frequent the Toyota forums for my Chevy Prizm as my truck hasn't needed near the love and I wanted to know, is it allowed for me to post a YouTube video about my fuel pump install?

It's been exporting all day and took a killer 10 hours to edit to get from 45 minutes down to 27 minutes. Well, about that long. Taking the last 3 minutes of editing took most of the editing time, lol.

I'll have to finish editing a part 2 still for re-installation and readying the pump to get it in. Most of the next video is going over the surprising changes on live data after the repair.

2004 Nissan Frontier 4x4 Long Bed NA
- mildly modified 65k miles
- why a CAI? Has one stock
(was out of commision for 4 years)
- grounding wires, as good as new NGK spark plugs
- K&N Air filter
1999 Chevy Prizm (really a Corolla)
- short ram modified for cold air
- Mevotech end links for the front and rear
- Moog coils front and back
- Catback 2.25" except wait, I put in a 2.75" cat!
- grounding wires
- NGK Iridium spark plugs
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-08-2016, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Well, it feels like it's been months of coming back to the editing and my old app still corrupts the first 1/2 hour long video of the bed tilt fuel pump replacement method.

I bought new editing software so hopefully I can eventually get all the files moved to my computer (takes days by bluetooth, my usb cord connection on my video device is broken).

I have learned some important things.

Delphi fuel pumps at AutoZone are only lifetime if you buy the filter at the same store. I liked the 120 degree angle filter better from Oreilly's, but I'm not giving up a lifetime warranty.

Found this out about 2 months in when I had to change my fuel pump again because it occasionally dropped out when the pump got hot on longer trips. (Phew! I'd have had only a 90 day warranty!)

Plus, the Delphi fuel strainer is a lot thicker so while I liked what looked like a bigger strainer, I feel better about a thicker straining medium

My fuel trims are rich after the install so I'm definitely getting more fuel. It's 4 to 7 percent rich so that's completely acceptable.

I'll just have to remember that's my new "norm" for if vacuum leaks develop as the truck ages.

3rd fuel pump in 16 months, so I'm rather motivated about a good warranty...kinda risky on the labor from high failure rates, yes?

Before it only had a 1 year warranty and lasted 13 months. Sheesh! lol

2004 Nissan Frontier 4x4 Long Bed NA
- mildly modified 65k miles
- why a CAI? Has one stock
(was out of commision for 4 years)
- grounding wires, as good as new NGK spark plugs
- K&N Air filter
1999 Chevy Prizm (really a Corolla)
- short ram modified for cold air
- Mevotech end links for the front and rear
- Moog coils front and back
- Catback 2.25" except wait, I put in a 2.75" cat!
- grounding wires
- NGK Iridium spark plugs
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-08-2016, 03:19 PM
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I'm wondering what you mean about fuel temperature? I wasn't aware of the 1st gen having a fuel temp sensor, can you enlighten me?

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-09-2016, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel Temperature Sensor

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Originally Posted by kevinjohnson3216 View Post
I'm wondering what you mean about fuel temperature? I wasn't aware of the 1st gen having a fuel temp sensor, can you enlighten me?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
The fuel temperature sensor is on the fuel sending unit.

I discovered the truck had one when a couple years ago I cleaned out the fuel tank.

You see, I couldn't get the fuel sending unit out and there was a thick varnish from gummy ethanol all over the gas tank. (the vehicle had been sitting for a while.) Squeezing into the gas tank for several hours wasn't good on the fuel sending unit's wires and I finally broke it just to get it out of the tank and clean it up.

This set a couple of codes for the truck not seeing the fuel level or the fuel temperature.

At the base of the fuel sending unit is a little thermistor I'd guess which reads the fuel temperature. Without it LTFT's won't set for this PCM and constant STFT adjustments aren't as efficient at keeping the fuel/air mixture correct. I immediately got an MPG boost and the truck also feels like it has more power.

With better fuel ratios, the truck also decided it had good catalytic converters instead of bad! (Big deal. I had found some on Amazon for $520 by Magnaflow, but I don't even like Magnaflow catalytic converters. I've heard from a parts salesman that they come back all the time. I hadn't checked around much for availability or price.)

2004 Nissan Frontier 4x4 Long Bed NA
- mildly modified 65k miles
- why a CAI? Has one stock
(was out of commision for 4 years)
- grounding wires, as good as new NGK spark plugs
- K&N Air filter
1999 Chevy Prizm (really a Corolla)
- short ram modified for cold air
- Mevotech end links for the front and rear
- Moog coils front and back
- Catback 2.25" except wait, I put in a 2.75" cat!
- grounding wires
- NGK Iridium spark plugs
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 02:56 PM
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Any chance I can use a fuel pump and sending unit that does not have the low fuel light indicator on the dash. Turns Out my '98 had the light on the dash and it wasn't working. SO we are wired for a warning light but just bought an autozone pump and sender unit without the light for 233. I pump with an indicator if 354. Like to avoid spending another 120 if I could. But we would have and exposed connection inside the tank if we used the pump not made for a warning light.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gspangen View Post
Any chance I can use a fuel pump and sending unit that does not have the low fuel light indicator on the dash. Turns Out my '98 had the light on the dash and it wasn't working. SO we are wired for a warning light but just bought an autozone pump and sender unit without the light for 233. I pump with an indicator if 354. Like to avoid spending another 120 if I could. But we would have and exposed connection inside the tank if we used the pump not made for a warning light.
I'd have to have the electrical diagram of the system in question to be sure of my answer, but usually the low fuel indicator light is based on the fuel sender and the logic of how the circuit it setup to turn the light on.

For example, my low fuel light wouldn't turn on while my fuel sending unit was missing. As long as you have a working fuel sending unit, your light should turn on. Though my fuel sending unit wasn't exactly Nissan factory nice so sometimes it says the gas tank is full and sometimes it doesn't even though I fill up my tank all of the way most of the time.

Legally, the fill light is supposed to mean you have another 15 or 30 miles before empty, assuming your truck is still getting stock gas mileage.

Mine is more like an announcement when I'm already screwed, I can make it a few more miles, but not the period or length of time that I should be able to drive. I learned this when on the way to an interview an hour away I couldn't find a gas station as the area was unfamiliar to me.

I need to take more seriously the advise to fill up if under half a tank.

I hope that helps and while I don't know the modification to your wiring, you do know that if you have a bad fuel pump you can save money and not buy a fuel sending unit at all right? I got mine cheap on AutoPartsWarehouse or at Jc Whitney if memory serves for like $15 to $40. Sorry, it was a while ago so I don't remember how much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gspangen View Post
Any chance I can use a fuel pump and sending unit that does not have the low fuel light indicator on the dash. Turns Out my '98 had the light on the dash and it wasn't working. SO we are wired for a warning light but just bought an autozone pump and sender unit without the light for 233. I pump with an indicator if 354. Like to avoid spending another 120 if I could. But we would have and exposed connection inside the tank if we used the pump not made for a warning light.
I don't think you could buy those two parts ever and effect whether that light works or not...meaning, the parts you bought should get it working before, so long as a fuel sending unit problem is the same reason my low indicator light stopped work, and started working again.

The fuel pump has nothing to do with the light, it's the fuel sending unit that makes that system work.

2004 Nissan Frontier 4x4 Long Bed NA
- mildly modified 65k miles
- why a CAI? Has one stock
(was out of commision for 4 years)
- grounding wires, as good as new NGK spark plugs
- K&N Air filter
1999 Chevy Prizm (really a Corolla)
- short ram modified for cold air
- Mevotech end links for the front and rear
- Moog coils front and back
- Catback 2.25" except wait, I put in a 2.75" cat!
- grounding wires
- NGK Iridium spark plugs

Last edited by AutoBravado; 05-28-2016 at 05:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 06:12 PM
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The reason I got the sending unit and pump is because those two little metal spouts coming out of the top of the tank were completely corroded and leaking gas. This I didn't discover until we got the rusted bed off the truck.

So, based on the fact that I never had a working fuel indicator light, I assumed I needed a pump and sender unit that did not have an indicator light. What I discovered once I pulled the old pump out was it was wired for an indicator light. So, right now I'm sitting with a new pump and sender unit that is not wired for an indicator light even though my truck is.

That pump at autozone without the indicator light cost 233. A pump and sender unit wired for an indicator light costs 354.

So is it necessary to by the correct pump? if I used the pump without the indicator light, there would connections exposed in the fuel tank that can't be a good situation if a charge is fired unconnected in a wire that was supposed to turn on an indicator light on the dash? I wonder if there is a bulb burnt out that indicates the low fuel?

Also, that one little metal spout that is attached to the tank and a rubber hose is that replaceable or is that part of the entire tank?

Really appreciate your help here. I thought I'd have this truck with a new bed up and running today, until we hit the gas tank issue.

Last edited by gspangen; 05-28-2016 at 06:18 PM.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gspangen View Post
The reason I got the sending unit and pump is because those two little metal spouts coming out of the top of the tank were completely corroded and leaking gas. This I didn't discover until we got the rusted bed off the truck.

So, based on the fact that I never had a working fuel indicator light, I assumed I needed a pump and sender unit that did not have an indicator light. What I discovered once I pulled the old pump out was it was wired for an indicator light. So, right now I'm sitting with a new pump and sender unit that is not wired for an indicator light even though my truck is.

That pump at autozone without the indicator light cost 233. A pump and sender unit wired for an indicator light costs 354.

So is it necessary to by the correct pump? if I used the pump without the indicator light, there would connections exposed in the fuel tank that can't be a good situation if a charge is fired unconnected in a wire that was supposed to turn on an indicator light on the dash? I wonder if there is a bulb burnt out that indicates the low fuel?

Also, that one little metal spout that is attached to the tank and a rubber hose is that replaceable or is that part of the entire tank?

Really appreciate your help here. I thought I'd have this truck with a new bed up and running today, until we hit the gas tank issue.
Does the new and old few pump have the same number of connections? If it does, it's plug and play. If it doesn't, then you'd have to know what connections to connect to and how well a connection like that would last depends on your ability with wires...which may be in a way that would violate your warranty.

The metal spout is part of the tank and can't be replaced without replacement of the entire tank.

The only way around it is to know how to work metal and weld. One of the first things I did when I learned how to weld was to learn how not to die. Welding on anything that used to, or still has flammable material that was stored in it, is a good way to blow up, so we're back to not replacing it.

If there's enough left to still get a good seal a different hose might make the difference.

The easy way to know if the bulb works is to key on, without turning the engine on and watch all the lights on your dash light up. That should always work unless the bulb goes bad (unlikely to not light up for other reasons).

And your welcome for what help I can be. It's one of the reasons I put up the thread. I like to help.

I'm studying to switch from being an automotive technician right now to selling insurance, so you served another purpose to give me a needed break from studying.

2004 Nissan Frontier 4x4 Long Bed NA
- mildly modified 65k miles
- why a CAI? Has one stock
(was out of commision for 4 years)
- grounding wires, as good as new NGK spark plugs
- K&N Air filter
1999 Chevy Prizm (really a Corolla)
- short ram modified for cold air
- Mevotech end links for the front and rear
- Moog coils front and back
- Catback 2.25" except wait, I put in a 2.75" cat!
- grounding wires
- NGK Iridium spark plugs
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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A tanks saving grace?

Is there enough left of the big metal pipe, meant for fuel from the fuel pump that it could have a rubber hose put on it, with two clamps on each side?

2004 Nissan Frontier 4x4 Long Bed NA
- mildly modified 65k miles
- why a CAI? Has one stock
(was out of commision for 4 years)
- grounding wires, as good as new NGK spark plugs
- K&N Air filter
1999 Chevy Prizm (really a Corolla)
- short ram modified for cold air
- Mevotech end links for the front and rear
- Moog coils front and back
- Catback 2.25" except wait, I put in a 2.75" cat!
- grounding wires
- NGK Iridium spark plugs
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 03:51 PM
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We got the new pump on but the truck won't start. Is there any prep necessary for the fuel pump and sending unit to make it work other than just installing the pump and connectors? I wonder if we should have added gas to the pump somewhere?

We got it working. helps to remember to put the fuel pump fuse back in.

Last edited by gspangen; 05-29-2016 at 03:58 PM.
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