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Old 11-20-2012, 08:48 PM
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Helper spring/ shackle combo?

Hey guys,

Haven't posted in a while so it's nice to be back. I recently got some new torsion bars for my 00' fronty, so I than did a crank. And the truck now sits pretty.... In the front. My issue is the back is a load of sag, and I mean little clearance between the bumps and the leads without a load. So I was wondering if anyone has used the Hellwig 550 helper springs, and if I would help my saggy aft portion. And would it benefit to later throw a pair of shackles in there?

On another note, If I were to have the tools/ materials, how difficult would it be to custom fab some shackles?

Thanks in advance guys,

Shayne
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:55 PM
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If your springs are tired then it would be best to buy new ones or have them made. Using helper springs are kind of stalling the situation.

Do you carry heavy loads in the bed?
IMO if you have the tools, shackles would be pretty easy to make, they look pretty simple.
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shaynerama (11-21-2012)
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:07 PM
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Thanks for the input. I agree with you on the shackles, looks easy. But in my case with the springs, I know it's not the best choice, but a new springset isn't really in my budget. I don't need massive clearance, though bringing the end up a little but would be nice. And as for loads, I regularly have trailers and the odd load of gravel here and there but not regularly. The main use would merely be to bring the back up level with the front, and generally improve the ride with the help of the shackles.

Cheers.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:56 PM
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If they are worn out, I second the best option being new spring packs. You'll need new ones eventually and buying helper springs or an add a leaf will be wasted money down the road. If you can't afford them a add a leaf would be a good band aid fix.

Shackles are easy if you have the right equipment. I have made a few sets for other vehicles. Usually use 1/4" plate for normal ones but have made a set out of 3/8 because that's what the dude wanted. I always put a piece of 1x1 square tubing in the middle. Probably not necessary but it gives piece of mind. The ones that suck are the ones that have different width bushings between the frame and leaf. Then the press brake comes out and you have to use your noggin a little.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:59 AM
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Yea, I was thinking the same thing for the shackles, piece of mind is always nice! Another thing I forgot to mention is that when I bought the truck last year, a leaf was broken, and in order to get it safetied I opted to get the broken one (middle leaf) replaced on both sides. That costed more than I expected, but as I was 17 and didn't know of CF, or any other info resources at the time so I suppose it needed done. And as for the bandaid fix, I know what you mean but I just can't fit it into my budget. And even if I do get a new pack down the road, I suppose the helper/shackles can come off with the old pack? I just want it to stop hitting the bump stops on every little bump the truck goes over haha

Cheers
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:54 AM
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I have been using helper springs on mine for yaers and very happy with the results. i used the 1250 not the 550 because I got them for under $100 on amazon. Before 200 pounds on the tailgate would flatten it and after 400 pounds hardly moves it. I cranked the t-bars a bit as well. It handles corners better than I expected.
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Old 11-21-2012, 10:36 AM
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shackles are simple to make. just make sure you drill them as a set as the holes have to mount up perfectly
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:16 AM
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Yea, I took some measurements this morning, and it looks pretty simple. One thing I'm not too sure of is if there is any bend in the shackles, as if the springs and the mount on the frame are different widths. And the gain from what I've heard is strange- for every inch added to the length there is 1/2" gained in height, is this correct? I know they shouldn't be too long but what is an acceptable length with proper strengthening?

Cheers
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:40 AM
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in first gens there are no bends(I confirmed that by just looking at the ones on the calmini site), and the gain is 1/2" for every 1" added to the shackle. so for 1 inch of lift, 2 inches added to the shackle, 1.5" lift, 3" added, etc, etc. Like Hertz said though, it is a good piece of mind that when you get to like 2 inches of total lift, (meaning your shackle is 4 inches longer than stock) add a center pin for twisting strength. I just drilled a third hole, found a piece of tube that fit over a shackle bolt, and fed a bolt through the tube and tightened it around the shackle.
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2000 frontier, crew cab, 4x4,
31" yokohama geolander's,
2 12" phoenix gold audio subwoofers in ported box,
JVC 600 watt amp,
2 250 watt scosche 6x9's in custom brushed aluminum enclosures,
2 155 watt dual front door replacement speakers,
EZliner bedliner on whole bed,
dual 55 watt fog lamps,
custom built shrockworks style front bumper
rancho rs500's in the back

Wish list:

Solid axles
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:55 PM
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Be careful doing this! Although shackles will bring your ride up they will hyper-extend your already weak springs and cause them to be an even bigger problem for you. When I noticed my truck sagged in the back I purchased some AAL's, this really helped with load capacity and lifted my rear level with the front again.
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/fron...eaf-p-147.html
I was even able to re-use my stock U-bolts with this setup.
1st Gen FAQ...PLEASE READ. ADD INPUT

I would suggest trying this first, it's fairly cheap and you can install them yourself in an evening. If after that your truck is still not high enough, combine shackles. With the AAL's in place your shackles wouldn't flatten out your springs.
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