Dead Battery - Page 2 - Nissan Frontier Forum
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#11 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 02:54 PM
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theres nothing electrical accompanied to the door key lock cylinder...i highly doubt thats it. your dome light isnt on...is it?
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#12 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 03:51 PM
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My dome light has not worked in years.

2000 Dessert Runner XE.
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#13 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 04:04 PM
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my guess...and i only say this because its probably the most common failure and cause of parasitic load that ive seen...after aftermarket accessories...is the BCM remaining on for something silly. bad ignition switch staying on, shorted, or otherwise just keeping the module awake.

unless you have access to a good multimeter with amperage rating, and know what youre doing...tracking the load source may be best left to a pro. or at least, someone with some electrical experience.

Last edited by Mhannis; 10-24-2012 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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#14 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
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my guess...and i only say this because its probably the most common failure and cause of parasitic load that ive seen...after aftermarket accessories...is the BCM remaining on for something silly. bad ignition switch staying on, shorted, or otherwise just keeping the module awake.

unless you have access to a good multimeter with amperage rating, and know what youre doing...tracking the load source may be best left to a pro. or at least, someone with some electrical experience.
That one would make the most since. Their have been many times that I have turned the truck off and pulled the keys out and the truck stay on or try to restart.

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#15 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 04:46 PM
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sounds pretty spot on for an ignition switch to me.
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#16 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 10:01 PM
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Is that something I can do my self. Or does it need to have the key fixed to the computer?

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#17 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 07:37 AM
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should be able to. read up on it a little bit before you do so. you have to time the new switch to the correct position essentially. because, if i recall, to remove the ignition cylinder you have to have it somewhere in the range between ACC and crank. so once the new switch is in it'll have to be in the same position that the old one was on removal. this can be accomplished by just looking at the old switch and figuring out the position then matching the new one to it. it takes a little bit of common sense, but not terribly difficult to do.l
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#18 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012, 04:55 PM
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I sounds to me like you'd have to change the entire switch assembly, not just the tumbler. The only one I ever did required drilling a couple of rivits off that were holding the assembly to the steering column. New assembly bolted on.

Run it 'till it breaks and fix it faster!
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#19 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012, 05:26 PM
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i think maybe my post wasnt clear....the cylinder/tumblers need to be removed to be ABLE to remove the switch. the whole switch assembly is what youre removing and replacing. whether or not that includes the cylinder housing, i am not sure for that year/model. but you should be able to reuse the cylinder itself as nothing from that has changed.

i do recall doing some housings similar to what you describe. specifically. the cap nuts/screws that the H3 and gmc colorado use for their ignition switch/housing assembly. those were....interesting.
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#20 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012, 08:06 PM
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I plan on hitting the junk yards this weekend. If not will order the part next week.

2000 Dessert Runner XE.
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"I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in _the morning, that's as
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