Brake Growl

[joefrontier2]

I replaced my stock pads after they wore out with EBC Green Stuff. This was pretty easy install... However, the brakes are growling now every once in awhile. They are not squeaking but they are growling when stopping. Like rrrrrrrrrr.rrrrrr.rrrr.rrrr.rrr.rr until the truck stops.

I did not use an anti-vibration goo to the back of the pad because the stock didn't have it on theirs. The green pads did have a metal backing on it so all I did was lube the caliper pins, and put the pads in and put everything back.

Anyone have an idea of what I should do to stop this growling.

Also I put these on well over 1000 miles ago.

[dbajohn]

Hi - just wondering did you bed the pads in correctly?

Basic Initial Brake Bed-In

For optimal use of any given brake system, the pads and rotor have to be compatible with each other. The bed-in procedure establishes that compatibility between the pad and rotor.

This is achieved by a combination of rubbing speed, temperature, line pressure, and Inertia. Bed-in is also influenced by pad and rotor material chemistries.

It is always recommended that only compatible pads and rotors be used in any given application.

Bedding in advantages:

1. Gradually heat treats the rotor and eliminates any thermal shock in the rotor.

2. Burn off volatiles and moisture from the resin that is near pad surface. This will eliminate “green fade.”

3. Establish a layer of transfer film about a few microns thick on the rotor surface. Shearing of the film during friction is an effective source of friction force. Otherwise, when using a freshly ground rotor without the transfer film, the main friction force would come from cutting, plowing, or scoring the asperities on the rotor surface. This leads to inconsistent braking effectiveness.

4. Mate the two surfaces to a near perfect geometrical match, so that the contact area is high, and therefore the friction force is increased.

5. The performance of a fresh rotor/fresh pad system would be inconsistent. This is due to ever-changing structures and properties of the two mating materials. Bed-in of pads and rotor will form a stable transfer film.

6. If bedding in procedure is not applied, a stable transfer film may not be established for a long time. In other words, the rotor surface would have to be constantly regenerating a film that is not quite stable for a long time. This effect would reduce the performance and increase the wear.


Basic Bed-In Procedure

Always consider the Brake pad manufacturers bedding in recommendations.

1. After installing new disc rotors &/or brake pads, perform 8 to 10 slow downs applying moderate pressure from approximately 50 – 60 kph without coming to a stop.

2. Make an additional 2 to 3 slow downs applying heavy pressure from approximately 60 - 70 kph without coming to a stop.

3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!

4. Allow at least 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.

After step 4 your new disc rotors &/or pads are ready for normal use. Be aware that the full bedding in process can take up to 300 – 500 kms depending on driving style. During this period try and avoid any high speed hard braking to a dead stop.

Hope this helps - also check the surface of your rotors... can you take a photo and post for me to look at?


DBAjohn

[beefy242]

is your stopping distance suffering because of this? if so, then its a problem. if not, just turn up your stereo louder. Im assuming youve got an auto, so it shouldnt affect you TOO much...

[TxFront]

You should have changed the rotors when you did the the brake job or at least see about getting them turned or at least that is my 2 cents

[joefrontier2]

Ok here are some pics of my brakes. I think I found a problem!



A the corner of this pad the backing plate is rising. It looks like it is sliding off the pad itself. These backing plates came on the pad I did not have to stick them on. (got a little craze with the goo. doesn't look that bad on the truck). The first pic is from the drivers. The second pic is from the riders side. Poth brake cylinders seam to go in smooth when depressing them to put the pads and caliper back on.

Do you guys think this would be the cause? How about a warranty claim with green stuff? I don't see any other issues with the brakes other than that.

The rotors are not warpped as far as braking it is smooth. The goo looks like it stopped or is helping to prevent the growl when stopping.

[fronty2wd]

I have used the green stuff pads befor on other cars and they will make a roar or growl type noise if you don't turn or replace the rotors befor you install them.

[joefrontier2]

AHHHH.

EBC Brakes Comp. are a pain to talk to warranty issues. I am not having good luck with them right now and about to post my email correspondence.

Their first reply that I could not claim a warranty because I added red goo to the pad... I mentioned to them that it was added afterwards. (look at the the red goo it has no brake dust on it) Look at the baker pad how it's all bent up on the corner. I even showed them pictures that I posted here.

There is no telephone number and have to use email.

I MEAN IT IS A FRIGGIN PAD HOW MUCH DOES TWO REALLY COST? It's not like I am trying to milk them for a fleet of vehicles. My local Advance Autoparts gave me replacements after 5 months of driving! Maybe I just order OEM later.