Ok. For the last several months I've been overheating while idling and the truck would overheat shortly after turning off the engine. I do courier work in Phoenix so that means lots of 10-15 minute stops, by the time I get back and start her up again, the temp gauge is off the chart. I never, ever had heat issues while at cruising speeds. Talked it over with my mechanic and figured it had to be a flow issue in the radiator (137K miles, factory radiator). This weekend, I replaced the radiator. The whole process went very smoothly.
However, now I am overheating at highway speeds if the A/C is on and when going up hills but NOT when idling (A/C on) and NOT after shutting off the engine. In other words, the exact OPPOSITE problem I faced before.
I've pretty much ruled out the fan clutch. The fan blows strong and it has passed a few different tests I put it through that some folks recommended. Also checked for air bubbles in the cooling system, came up with nothing.
I'm stumped at this point. Any thoughts? Thanks folks.
It seems like this would have caused problems before, but: are all of the radiator's rubber or foam "gaskets" in place around the perimeter of the radiator?
What mix of anti-freeze / water are you using?
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Jerry
2004 Frontier, King Cab, XE, 4x1, 4-cyl, 5-spd
Have you ever replaced the thermostat and water pump?
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with 137,000 miles you should have done a timing belt by now which should have done a water pump and thermostat change. Have you done any of those items?
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The two overheat problems are inapposite, so it is confusing.
Your current problem, overheat at highway speeds or uphill climb, suggest that the heat removal system (i.e. radiator) has insufficient heat transfer capability. It's brand new so it can't be the surfaces. That leaves coolant flowrate or coolant level.
If the radiator is full, (most likely) then that leaves the thermostat or water pump as the suspects. Water pumps fail by leaking, rather than stoppage of coolant flow. I think you should change out the thermostat.
Another remote possibility is a collapsed coolant line. There are two, upper and lower, and are subjected to vacuum when the engine cools down. They are reinforced to resist collapsing due to internal vacuum. But due to age and heat, they can break down. A simple inspection will uncover this fault.
Did your mechanic bleed out the air from the cooling system after changing the radiator? There is a bleeder on the intake manifold to get all the air out after you get it re-filled and running.
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Did your mechanic bleed out the air from the cooling system after changing the radiator? There is a bleeder on the intake manifold to get all the air out after you get it re-filled and running.
These are my two thoughts on it, mainly the cooling system not being "burped", and a possible weak waterpump. If the system has air trapped in it, it wil cause te waterpump to cavitate, which in turn means no circulation of coolant. You need to remedy this quickly as you will in turn cause warped heads and a blown head gasket.
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These are my two thoughts on it, mainly the cooling system not being "burped", and a possible weak waterpump. If the system has air trapped in it, it wil cause te waterpump to cavitate, which in turn means no circulation of coolant. You need to remedy this quickly as you will in turn cause warped heads and a blown head gasket.
I have been trying to locate the bleeder valve for the last two days. When I was unable to find it, I went ahead and (while cool) removed the radiator cap, ran the engine for half an hour and tried to see if I could burp the system that way. If I could locate that bleeder it might make things easier.
My mechanic is out of town until Tuesday and can't be reached so I don't have the luxury of asking him questions about the installation procedure etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryp58
It seems like this would have caused problems before, but: are all of the radiator's rubber or foam "gaskets" in place around the perimeter of the radiator?
What mix of anti-freeze / water are you using?
Are you talking about the large strips of foam that sit between the heater core and the radiator? The foam strip on the drivers side fell off when replacing the radiator and there appears to be no easy way to put it back. Do you really think that would affect air flow enough to do something like this?
By the way, I'm using pre-mixed 50/50 Prestone. Always have.
I have been trying to locate the bleeder valve for the last two days. When I was unable to find it, I went ahead and (while cool) removed the radiator cap, ran the engine for half an hour and tried to see if I could burp the system that way. If I could locate that bleeder it might make things easier.
My mechanic is out of town until Tuesday and can't be reached so I don't have the luxury of asking him questions about the installation procedure etc.
Are you talking about the large strips of foam that sit between the heater core and the radiator? The foam strip on the drivers side fell off when replacing the radiator and there appears to be no easy way to put it back. Do you really think that would affect air flow enough to do something like this?
By the way, I'm using pre-mixed 50/50 Prestone. Always have.
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